what oil for new engine break in
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,616
Likes: 4
From: Fort Worth Texas
what oil for new engine break in I almost done on my 383 and curious as to what oil you guys are using to break a new engine in. I know to use conventional not synthetic oil, but I have read that the modern conventional oils lack the zinc that is neccessary for proper break in. I have also heard about some joe gibbs??? break in oil, I know that some vendors sell a bottle of additive?? what is the best way to go. I have spent a ton on this thing and want to protect it as best as possible. I assembled it with the clevite assembly lube, so I know the bearings will be protected on startup, just not sure what to pour in the engine. Thanks in advance
We use one of 3 options here:
Shell Rotella T or Valvoline VR1 w/ GM EOS or Comp Engine Break in suppliment
Joe Gibbs Break in oil
Comp Break in oil
Hope this helps...
Shane
Shell Rotella T or Valvoline VR1 w/ GM EOS or Comp Engine Break in suppliment
Joe Gibbs Break in oil
Comp Break in oil
Hope this helps...
Shane
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,616
Likes: 4
From: Fort Worth Texas
Thanks now I know what to look for, I would assume to fill the crankcase with one of the above, then start the motor, let it get some heat in it, Drain the oil, then fill it back up with more of the break in oil, Put about 1000 miles on it and change it again. Then run the oil of my choice?
I run mine about 100-150 miles between OC's and then change again at 500 before I go on my 3K mile rotation.
Some on here will differ with me but here is what has has worked well for me......After the first start up once the oil is HOT I make a couple WOT runs. This seats the rings better than babying it for a bunch of miles before it sees WOT. Of course you have to know your tune is good. I know a guy who broke his in on the dyno and it runs like a scalded dog......
Some on here will differ with me but here is what has has worked well for me......After the first start up once the oil is HOT I make a couple WOT runs. This seats the rings better than babying it for a bunch of miles before it sees WOT. Of course you have to know your tune is good. I know a guy who broke his in on the dyno and it runs like a scalded dog......
As stated, many different ways. I prefer a good oil with some ZDDP(old Rotella T has a good shot of ZDDP). If you use an PCMO(passenger car motor oil) you can buy a zinc additive (ie Redline break in additive or similar) to bump up the ZDDP. And yes it does more than just protect flat tappets. Its good for ring break in as well. Use a good filter. I like to change it at 500, 1000, 1500 using a good filter with filtermag. Then switching to a synthetic.
Some builders like to pre- heat the oil to about 170-180 and dump it into the engine. Kind of a PITA and dangerous, but it's fairly common with some of the big names. Makes sense as the oil flows very nicely and gets to most of the engine very quickly. It's by no means standard practice for most street or even drag guys. Read up on it if you are not familiar.
Also the comment regarding synthetics not allowing proper break in is mostly a myth. Many cars are factory filled with synthetics. Mobil 1 is in the corvette,viper etc when new. The main advantage of most OTC syn oils is longer intervals and better cold flow/high temp protection. Most of them are synthetic hydrocarbon base oils/hydrocracked group III (modified crude molecules) and differ from true synthetics like redline and motul which are esters. For polyol esters (POE) true synthetics, it is recommended to break in using a good conventional. This is the only part where (synthetics can interfere with break in) that is true.
Some builders like to pre- heat the oil to about 170-180 and dump it into the engine. Kind of a PITA and dangerous, but it's fairly common with some of the big names. Makes sense as the oil flows very nicely and gets to most of the engine very quickly. It's by no means standard practice for most street or even drag guys. Read up on it if you are not familiar.
Also the comment regarding synthetics not allowing proper break in is mostly a myth. Many cars are factory filled with synthetics. Mobil 1 is in the corvette,viper etc when new. The main advantage of most OTC syn oils is longer intervals and better cold flow/high temp protection. Most of them are synthetic hydrocarbon base oils/hydrocracked group III (modified crude molecules) and differ from true synthetics like redline and motul which are esters. For polyol esters (POE) true synthetics, it is recommended to break in using a good conventional. This is the only part where (synthetics can interfere with break in) that is true.
Last edited by 355TurboLT1; Mar 11, 2010 at 01:41 AM.
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I build quite a few circle jerk motors with very aggressive flat tappet solid
cams and the Chevron Delo or old school Kendall 20W50 works great with
the Howards Cams bottle of additive (half the cost of the Comp stuff)....VERY
true what SOMBITCH said about ring break in....WOT in car or major lugged
on a strong waterbreak dyno...combustion pressure/heat to force the rings
into the cylinder walls/crosshatch.
cams and the Chevron Delo or old school Kendall 20W50 works great with
the Howards Cams bottle of additive (half the cost of the Comp stuff)....VERY
true what SOMBITCH said about ring break in....WOT in car or major lugged
on a strong waterbreak dyno...combustion pressure/heat to force the rings
into the cylinder walls/crosshatch.
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Joined: Jun 2011
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From: Katy, TX
Some on here will differ with me but here is what has has worked well for me......After the first start up once the oil is HOT I make a couple WOT runs. This seats the rings better than babying it for a bunch of miles before it sees WOT. Of course you have to know your tune is good. I know a guy who broke his in on the dyno and it runs like a scalded dog......
