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Power under the curve cam

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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 10:17 PM
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Default Power under the curve cam

Looking for a cam to make good power under the curve and maintain good street manners. I have an LQ4 6.0L, LS6 intake, A4 with 3200 stall, 3.73 gears and full exhaust. Any ideas?
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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 10:39 PM
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engine power systems cam.
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Old Apr 2, 2010 | 11:28 PM
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Where do you want your curve? What kind of power do you want? What are you looking for?
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 03:02 AM
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intake change can make a difference under the curve also... (not saying FAST either)
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 03:41 AM
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1st off... DUFFSTER Love the avatar!!!!

2nd... Justus, take a look at my dyno in my sig... I have a 6.0 LQ4 as well. I really like my 224R cam, but if I could do it all over again, I might step it up to at least a 228R or low 230's (I have to watch out for PTV Clrearances with my 59cc heads)... The one I have right now though is ridiculous for street fun...
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 08:37 AM
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If you want power under the curve, stay away from all internet hyped cams (except the TR224).
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 10:17 AM
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Try to keep your duration at or under 230 at .050" and your overlap under 7 degrees at .050". There are literally TONS of cams that fall under that.

TR224
TSP 224R
TSP 228R
EPS 226/230
yada, yada

Don't fall into the bigger is better trap. The first NA 10 second LS1 F-bodies ran cams that were 221 and 222 at .050".
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Patrick G
Try to keep your duration at or under 230 at .050" and your overlap under 7 degrees at .050". There are literally TONS of cams that fall under that.

TR224
TSP 224R
TSP 228R
EPS 226/230
yada, yada

Don't fall into the bigger is better trap. The first NA 10 second LS1 F-bodies ran cams that were 221 and 222 at .050".
Listen to this guy he knows his stuff!
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 10:41 AM
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I was hoping Pat G would have a say. The TR224 was the very first one I looked at. I still have the factory piston and I think they are concave, .011. How much will this affect my end result? Oh, I'm looking for 415-430 on hp and torque and good street manners. Its not my daily driver, but I do drive it every chance I get. It will see the track once almost every month. I want the curve smooth, so it feels like the car is constantly pulling up the front end as I accelerate. I'm an accleration junkie, not top speed.

Last edited by Justus67; Apr 3, 2010 at 10:42 AM. Reason: mis-spelling
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 11:02 AM
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I ran a tr-224/3200 combo for a while. Its a nicely matched set. I shift at about 6200 and on the dyno that was about when the cam ran out of steam. You dont have to spin this cam high to get your power is my point. With the LQ4 dished pistons, you may consider milling your heads some for a compression bump.
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 01:53 PM
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What heads do you have, because without a good pair of heads you may not get the numbers you want.
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 05:02 PM
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I have the stock 317's and I also have a set of 241's, would i get better results from the 241's and the tr224, or the 317's?
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 05:03 PM
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Duffster, where did you get that picture of Obama without his make-up on?
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 09:47 PM
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Put in a 228R cam. That would perfect in the 6.0L and have nearly stock driving manners. It'll make power everywhere. The TR224 is a little too small for the bigger cubes.
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 08:28 AM
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^^^I agree, and I would likely run the 241s, bc to my understanding 241s and 317s are basically the same heads except the 241s have smaller chambers. 241s are like the milled version of 317s.
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 02:34 PM
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Building a similar motor for my 89 S10 Blazer LQ9/4L80 trans with Explorer 8.8 with 3.73's. Using the stock heads 317's which are same port design and flow the same as 243's except they have a larger chamber 70cc/64cc for 243's, I believe. I would def use them over the 241's. I'm milling mine .025 which should get my compression close enough to 10.5. Your LQ4 with milled 317 heads will get you somewhere around 10 to 1 or so. The 241's will give you a little higher compression but you would be giving up head flow. I'm staying on what most here consider a small cam matter of fact I'm going to use one of Pats new EPS cams I believe 222/226 it should make plenty of power. Def going to be surprising lots of cars on the street with this setup,Lol.
(6-7 thous. per cc reduction). From what I've read its safe to mill them up to .030.

Last edited by john59; Apr 4, 2010 at 02:50 PM.
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 09:43 PM
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I'm liking the TR228, but the more I research all these different cams the more I like the sleeper factor. If I pop the hood they will see the stock intake and no nitrous lines, with the right tune on a TR224 or TR228 I could put down over 400 easy on motor. For all they know I have a vaccuum leak!
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 09:44 PM
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I will probably have them milled .025 just to bump it up a little on the cr.
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 10:02 PM
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I'm still saying go with the TSP 228R Cam... honestly man. Your gonna love it, and it's PERFECT the 6.0

I also see you keep mentioning the TR224... great cam, but why not get the little bit of extra lift that the TSP R series cams have?
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 10:51 PM
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+1 on the TSP 228R. That looks like my cam, they have a very reasonable package with cam, springs and rods. Thanks for the help everybody! Now if I can just get my flexplate issue worked out I'll be in good shape!
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