!!!Help with Heads and cam install!!!
!!!Help with Heads and cam install!!! I just started the install today and was following the write-up on ls1Howto, but ran into a problem. I am trying to remove the radiator but seems like I have a couple extra lines connected to it that is not mentioned in the write-up. Do I just disconnect them? I have an SLP high-capacity radiator, so didn't know if that made a difference or not. My friend can only stay for alittle while longer, so we were trying to get this out before he left.
Anyways here are a couple pics.
The extra line near the top passenger side (in the red circle):
The extra line near the bottom passenger side (in red):
Anyways here are a couple pics.
The extra line near the top passenger side (in the red circle):
The extra line near the bottom passenger side (in red):
Sorry if its a dumb question, its my first time doing this.
Not much will come out but as stated just check fluid level and top off before you drive it. IIRC I only lost a half pint or so when I did my radiator swap so you won't lose much. Just remember 60e's HATE to run low on fluid so get it right......
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Just dont cross thread them when you go to put them back in. I know sometimes when you get stuff moving around and not 100% in the exact spot it was, it can sometimes make it difficult to get those lines started, atleast it can be going into the tranny
Thanks for the help guys.
Is there an easy way to get the bolt holding the mounting bracket for the trans fluid dipstick? I didn't realize it was attached to the back of the passenger head as well and went to pull the head and it kept getting stuck. Tried to get a wrench back there, but was struggling so I just called it a day for now.
Is there an easy way to get the bolt holding the mounting bracket for the trans fluid dipstick? I didn't realize it was attached to the back of the passenger head as well and went to pull the head and it kept getting stuck. Tried to get a wrench back there, but was struggling so I just called it a day for now.
I never recommend doing this.
You can run the lines through your stock cooler, then into an aftermarket trans cooler and have the best of both. Retaining the use of the stock cooler will add about 20% more efficient cooling, which is never a bad thing.
Anyone doing heads/cam in an A4 car needs to do a cooler at the same time since the lines are being popped off, and the radiator is coming out. It's a no brainer, and keeps your trans alive. You can get the B&M cooler for around $60, and it takes about $10 worth of hoses/fittings to get it all hooked up.
You can run the lines through your stock cooler, then into an aftermarket trans cooler and have the best of both. Retaining the use of the stock cooler will add about 20% more efficient cooling, which is never a bad thing.
Anyone doing heads/cam in an A4 car needs to do a cooler at the same time since the lines are being popped off, and the radiator is coming out. It's a no brainer, and keeps your trans alive. You can get the B&M cooler for around $60, and it takes about $10 worth of hoses/fittings to get it all hooked up.
first off, that bolt was way easier to reach from underneath, thanks squirts.
Can someone point me in the right direction for the trans cooler? Is the p/n 70264? Also is there a write up on that with the parts I need? Sorry, I don't know much about those...thought I only needed to add that when I get a stall. But I'll go ahead and get one now if it saves the trans
Also does anyone have pictures of the starter? Trying to figure out how to remove it, but couldn't see the bolts that I needed to get to.
Can someone point me in the right direction for the trans cooler? Is the p/n 70264? Also is there a write up on that with the parts I need? Sorry, I don't know much about those...thought I only needed to add that when I get a stall. But I'll go ahead and get one now if it saves the trans
Also does anyone have pictures of the starter? Trying to figure out how to remove it, but couldn't see the bolts that I needed to get to.
Looks something like this, and there should be two bolts that hold the starter in place (both are fairly long, and unequal in length).
Also, do you have the kent moore flywheel locking tool? Or do you just plan to wedge a screwdriver in the flywheel to keep it from turning (scary just to think about the crap that could go wrong there lol..).
Also, do you have the kent moore flywheel locking tool? Or do you just plan to wedge a screwdriver in the flywheel to keep it from turning (scary just to think about the crap that could go wrong there lol..).
Some of the trucks w/5.3,6.0,6.2 have a factory trans fluid cooler. You might adapt it to your car as the blocks are the same as are some transmission applications. It might bolt right up.
Looks something like this, and there should be two bolts that hold the starter in place (both are fairly long, and unequal in length).
Also, do you have the kent moore flywheel locking tool? Or do you just plan to wedge a screwdriver in the flywheel to keep it from turning (scary just to think about the crap that could go wrong there lol..).
Also, do you have the kent moore flywheel locking tool? Or do you just plan to wedge a screwdriver in the flywheel to keep it from turning (scary just to think about the crap that could go wrong there lol..).
Also I tried getting a flywheel locking tool at the auto store, but the guys just looked at me like I was stupid... I was kinda worried about trying to use a screwdriver... I guess I'll try a different store tomorrow when I pick up some new spark plugs, are those really 100-200 bucks?