I have a stock 01 z28 and have gotten these parts for it

slp lid
slp cold air intake
ported throttle body
bigger mass air flow
smooth bellow
corvette servo
going to get headers, has flowmaster muffler
17" 275 zr1 replica wheels


I basically want a street car, it wont be raced much. Im wanting to break into the 12's, it runs 14.2-14.4 at 100 stock.

I wanted to ask if a 3,200 stall was too much for a street car in these ls1's. Was suggested I get a 3,200 yank stall. The 2,800 is about $200 less yet the person I talked to who owns one that runs 10's and tunes these cars didnt believe that was sufficient. I also wanted to ask about cams for a relatively stock street car such as mine, any suggestions would be appreciated.

I do plan on getting the car tuned yet would appreciate the car runs till I get it to the person for the tuning.

Thanks

 

I just finished my H&C swap last wk and ordered a Yank ss 3600 after talking with Jim @ CalSpeedPerformance. I'd give him a call and discuss what your goals are. He has a sale right now if you look at the sponsors section.
My car will mostly see the street as well, and from what he said, most of his customers that went with a 3200 end up wishing they had gone alittle bigger. At first he was recommending a 4000k, but then changed his mind when I told him it wasn't going to see the track much. Either way, those 3 stalls are all the same price as well.
As far as the cam, I picked up a 228/232 from another member. It struggled with idling before the tune and died a couple times at stops on the way to the tune, but I also had to replace the IAC motor and apparently there is more to replacing it than just screwing in the new one...so that might have contributed to the idle issues. The tuner was able to get everything straight though.

 

228/230 cam and a 3600 stall

 

I take that as the 3,200 isnt too much for what im looking for. It just seems like a lot on paper, that being said ive not driven any cars with stalls, prefer manuals but after a clutch in my previous used car that lasted a month I decided to get an auto. The car had other issues after I put the money in a clutch for it. Dont plan on buying another import car.

Thanks for the cam suggestion, somewhere to start with, wanted to try to find specs on a hotcam and compare it to the aftermarket ones that would work for my application.

 

Also is it worth looking at at 3.73 ratio set for the rear?

 

Definitely get at least a 3600 stall. I pretty much wish I had gone 4k now. For a street car anything from a 224/224 up to something like a tv2 from TSP is ideal. Detoxx Futral f11 cam is nice. I love my custom El Torro variant 230/234 111+2 .612/598 on a 111LSA. Stock or better lowend torque and carries strong all the way to 6500 shiftpoint. If I had your better 01 rod bolts I would shift at 6700-6800 I think. Keep in mind your intake will affect where peak power is made and how far it carries so my FAST 90/90 helps me out there and an lS6 won't carriy power as high.

You would love any of these setups but they do create one small problem.... Now you will be TRACTION IMPAIRED

 

The 01 and 02 cars got the "better" ls6 intake so I don't plan on upgrading it.

Thanks for the cam suggestions, im not really the biggest on the mechanical side of the car hobby. I know basic stuff and can do some work but havent had a lot of experience, I have a friend who lives for reading about parts and specs all day so I can probably gather info and have him help me pick one out.

Still have traction issues with a set up like that if I manage drag radials? Id need to get 2 more wheels and the tires are about $450

Thanks

 

Yes on the street DR's will help some but do not work like they do at the strip. If I wot my car at 30 it downshifts back to 1st and spins till about 60. When heated up at the track they deadhook. On my old set up I cut kinda slow high 1.6x 60 foots because all my suspension mods are handling mods. Just because I deadhook doesn't mean I am efficiently getting the power to the ground. For instance most guys who do the short torque arm swap report picking up a tenth or two becase you don't lose energy from the stock one flexing so bad so that more power is reaching the ground. Same with beefier lower control arms and having them set to the proper angle. Lighter wheels and skinnys up front make a big difference too. Good drag springs and shocks and the list goes on.......Before you know it all this has knocked .4-.5 off your 1/4 time with same RWHP.....

And yes I mentioned the IM point because the ls6 starts to drop off hard about 6200 so you don't want a cam that peaks or carries to over 6400-6500 because that cam will leave something on the table due to the intake restiction. You should choose a smaller cam where the power comes in early so you make better power over a longer time in your RPM range so you will be faster than the Donkey Dick cam.. The big cam will prolly make more peak power but it is all up high in a narrow rpm window so you will be faster with the smaller cam making good power over a broader rpm range ( more average power through usable rpm range). Also your ICL on your cam affects where power is made and where it peaks. So especially if you go with one of the bigger cams listed do it on a 111 or at least 112LSA with 2 degrees advance ground in. You will have to have a 111 custom ground on any of those cams. Anyway the lower ICL (LSA - advance) will bring the power in sooner, make slightly more peak and then fall off sooner so you don't need to spin more rpm's than your LS6 IM can support. I really don't like to recomend cams to people but it sounds like a TSP 228r on a 111+2 would serve your needs nicely or detoxx f11 111+2 which is on valvetrain friendly Cam Motion lobes IIRC. Keep in mind that 228r cam will have 6* overlap and have a fairly good lope if that will bother you and the f11 7* if both are ground on a 111LSA. I would still consider the 224 cam as it is still considered by many to be the quintessential street cam......

Oh and ditch the chokemaster for something that flows.... On a stock motor it really cost you no power and sounds good but on a modded setup it will cost you a few ponies.

What ever you decide get ready for some tire smoking fun

 

Thanks

I dont plan on pushing it past the 6,200 you mentioned as the drop off really

I think the stock rev limiter is 6,000 or barely above as is



I dont have a ton of money to put into the car right now, I got the muffler because it was cheap and I was tired of the car being quiet. I might get the slp exhaust at some point.


I really wanted the sts rear mount but it costs too much for me to get, would rather just get an srt or ss cobalt for a daily driver for how much they cost installed.


Maybe ill get a 01 or 02 ss 6 speed and get the turbo when I have money.

 

Yank SS3600 and a TR228 cam. Perfect combo for a street car IMO.

 

Agreed, you would be pretty happy with this combo. Will make great power when you decide to get heads and will more than meet your present needs. You will most definitely want a stickier tire. What kind depends on how you use the car. I personally like the M/T drag radials but I never drive in the rain or snow. Nitto drag radials are an option.

 

I actually like our 4,000 stall converter a bit better than our old 3,400 stall on the street.

 

Ok thanks for the suggestions

I might get an extra set of back wheels with the mt drag radials, not rich by any means though. Its an extra $700 I might not have to spend right away. It might have to be driven in the rain if my other car fails, its an $800 car so probably not going to put a lot of faith in it.


Am I better off with stock rear end or should I go for the 3.73 set?


Is $250 reasonable for tuning? Thats what it would cost to go through the person I know of.

 

Gears are good for a stalled A4, the objection I have is putting any money at all in a 10 bolt. Especially putting in taller gears that will be weaker because of the increased tooth number.... Do you have the 2.73 (standard for Z28) or 3.23 (optional on the Z28 standard on SS) gears now?

Also consider which trans cooler you will run to keep the tranny temps in check... As an aside we run the Nitto Drag Radials as our rear street tire because they are a little stickier than most street tires, have decent tread wear life, and manners in the rain.

 

I honestly dont know what the gear in it is now

think in first it runs to about 40 and if I hit it at 70 it down shifts and doesnt go to 4th till about 90 or 95

most likely I got the 2.xx one since my car runs slower than what everyone says it should?

 

Check your RPO codes on the driver's door: GU2 = 2.73, GU5 = 3.23.

 

Well theres nothing left over from the previous owners like that, not even the paint codes. I think the car was wrecked and that might be why all of that info stuff is not there or removed, I have one small white sticker I think it might be the vin but says 2001 camaro on the drivers door?

I didnt see anything on it to go with what you said?

 

The car came with base aluminum wheels with leather interior, so it wasnt the most expensive z new so my bet is its the 2.73 I can probably ask the dealer they might be able to tell me somehow.

Im still trying to figure out the slp sticker on the air dam, if someone just put it there or what

 

Well the RPO sticker is usually on the driver's door near the latch. If the door was replaced or repaired I could understand it being missing, but that is strange that you are unaware the car could have been in an accident...

 

Look and see whether you have a steel or aluminum driveshaft. Assuming it never was replaced steel = 2.73 and aluminum = 3.23 You can always call your VIN into a dealer and get a build printout as well as GM service history. I did it just to put in the documentation folder I keep on the car.

Lastly 1-2 40 mph shift and you are really doing a 2-3 mph shift 90 sounds like 3.23 gears.....