Swapped Rod Bolts
05-05-2010, 11:27 AM
#21
Talk to any real engine builder and they will say the same that I have. You can do alot of wrong thing on a engine that "will work" but there is a proper way of doing things.
But you can do whatever you want, I'm just telling you the real proper way.
But you can do whatever you want, I'm just telling you the real proper way.
Last edited by bigboykilroy; 05-05-2010 at 11:32 AM.
05-05-2010, 11:40 AM
#22
How about ARP? That's what their instructions say to do; hone out .002" and order the appropriate bearing. Is that the wrong way that just happens to work, or is the right way to take off the jagged surface that makes these rods so strong? Or are you proposing that you can't resize them, so don't even worry what happens when you swap in stronger aftermarket bolts. Is that the proper way?
05-05-2010, 11:45 AM
#24
i searched and searched and searched for bearings and couldnt find any for a stock crank pin, but i talked to Jon@HKE and he hooked me up with them...ill get the PN for you out of my PM box here in a second....
05-05-2010, 11:50 AM
#26
just for the record, at school (UNOH High Performance Motorsports Program) it is in every book and every manual for machining we have to hone the rods out and use an oversized bearing. also, ive talked to 3 instructers that teach the custom engine building class and they agree with me.
there is a proper way to do everything, non PM rods you grind the cap down then resize to stock spec, PM cracked rods, you hone it out .002 and use the approiate bearing. simple as that.
if your telling us the "real proper way" the only explination i can get out of your mess of posts is to throw rod bolts in it and leave it. but remember...."You can do alot of wrong thing on a engine that "will work" but there is a proper way of doing things."
stop shooting yourself in the foot before you bleed to death.
05-05-2010, 11:59 AM
#28
http://www.arp-bolts.com/Catalog/Cat...talog_0033.pdf
pay special attention to step 5 and the blue boxes. also, step #4 in the second section of the page. i dont have to call ARP, they tell me right on the page.
05-05-2010, 12:04 PM
#30
bearings are hard to find exactly what you are looking for sometimes. i put that number into a search on yahoo and it just came up "bearing +.002" but didnt say anything about the I/D. i find it really hard to drop money on something that has a vauge description. Jon@HKE clarified that for me.
05-05-2010, 12:10 PM
#32
i dont have to search, if you do search, you will find me arguing in most threads. most people will say "it will be ok, everyone else on here does it." but you said it yourself there is a wrong way and a right way, and the right way is to resize them and run oversized bearings. just because people throw the bolts in and it works fine, doesnt mean after so many miles the rods and bearings wont have some degree of abnormal wear that they wouldnt get "properly" installing the rod bolts.
05-05-2010, 12:13 PM
#33
i see you already started digging up my old arguments...i saw you looking at this thread.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...now-later.html
as you can see, most people agree with me, and the ones that dont said **** it, it will be fine. which is not the "proper" way as you would say.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...now-later.html
as you can see, most people agree with me, and the ones that dont said **** it, it will be fine. which is not the "proper" way as you would say.
05-05-2010, 03:20 PM
#35
here is the P/N CB1776P
bearings are hard to find exactly what you are looking for sometimes. i put that number into a search on yahoo and it just came up "bearing +.002" but didnt say anything about the I/D. i find it really hard to drop money on something that has a vauge description. Jon@HKE clarified that for me.
bearings are hard to find exactly what you are looking for sometimes. i put that number into a search on yahoo and it just came up "bearing +.002" but didnt say anything about the I/D. i find it really hard to drop money on something that has a vauge description. Jon@HKE clarified that for me.
05-05-2010, 03:57 PM
#39
i lost 8 rods and a crank because of that in 1k miles. when i tore it apart i measured the rods and each one was between .002 and .004 out of round. didnt spin a bearing, but it scored the crank and rods pretty good when the bearing wore down in certian spots.
05-05-2010, 03:59 PM
#40
PM Jon@HKE
that is his screen name. the P/N is in one of my above posts for the .002 o/s o/d rods with a standard crank journal.
its a Clevite bearing, you can get them just about anywhere that sells bearings, its just tough because a lot of the bearings have very vauge descriptions. i sat in front of this computer for hours one night looking for the right bearings, each one i found i thought was right had conflicting information on another site, so i just PM'ed Jon and he hooked me up with them as well as my pistons
Jon is excellent to do business with.