Swapped Rod Bolts
agreed. but when they do scatter due to not resizing, its always something else. not the fact that they didnt do it "properly" youll never see someone explaining the trashed bottom as "i didnt size my rods and this is what happened" except for me...im guilty. but that was before i knew any better. i was going off misinformation spread about the internet by certian people....
i lost 8 rods and a crank because of that in 1k miles. when i tore it apart i measured the rods and each one was between .002 and .004 out of round. didnt spin a bearing, but it scored the crank and rods pretty good when the bearing wore down in certian spots.
i lost 8 rods and a crank because of that in 1k miles. when i tore it apart i measured the rods and each one was between .002 and .004 out of round. didnt spin a bearing, but it scored the crank and rods pretty good when the bearing wore down in certian spots.
That sucks to learn the hard way, but it sucks worse if you don't learn at all. At least you're in the former category and not the latter.
HKE racing engines i beleive...
PM Jon@HKE
that is his screen name. the P/N is in one of my above posts for the .002 o/s o/d rods with a standard crank journal.
its a Clevite bearing, you can get them just about anywhere that sells bearings, its just tough because a lot of the bearings have very vauge descriptions. i sat in front of this computer for hours one night looking for the right bearings, each one i found i thought was right had conflicting information on another site, so i just PM'ed Jon and he hooked me up with them as well as my pistons
Jon is excellent to do business with.
PM Jon@HKE
that is his screen name. the P/N is in one of my above posts for the .002 o/s o/d rods with a standard crank journal.
its a Clevite bearing, you can get them just about anywhere that sells bearings, its just tough because a lot of the bearings have very vauge descriptions. i sat in front of this computer for hours one night looking for the right bearings, each one i found i thought was right had conflicting information on another site, so i just PM'ed Jon and he hooked me up with them as well as my pistons
Jon is excellent to do business with.
99 Blue Bird, Jon is a good guy, as well as all of the other guys working there. Erik Koenig is the owner, and he goes by racer7088 here on 'tech, and just about every other site he is a member.
I wonder if that's where the whole "only one bolt at a time" came from when swapping these bolts. That concept never made any sense to me.
That sucks to learn the hard way, but it sucks worse if you don't learn at all. At least you're in the former category and not the latter.
That sucks to learn the hard way, but it sucks worse if you don't learn at all. At least you're in the former category and not the latter.
it just makes me sleep better at night knowing the cap may have shifted or whatever, but they are honed out correctly countering that distortion.
Found this:
Not sure I agree with the statement that bearings "seat" on the journals, at least not to a significant extent. These aren't piston rings. I know for a fact that you can reuse bearings after you fiddle with them.
You simply do not just crack open rods, fiddle with them and put it back together. Bearings are seated on the crank journal and should not be displaced unless by some magic you can repalce them at the same exact location they were before. Put your crank journals and bearing under a microscope and you'll understand what I mean.
Found this:
Not sure I agree with the statement that bearings "seat" on the journals, at least not to a significant extent. These aren't piston rings. I know for a fact that you can reuse bearings after you fiddle with them.
Not sure I agree with the statement that bearings "seat" on the journals, at least not to a significant extent. These aren't piston rings. I know for a fact that you can reuse bearings after you fiddle with them.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
From: Edmonton Alberta , Canada
i didnt mention the part # / specifics
its the ARP Cracked rod "Pro" it had the number 2000 on the bolt head.
but the part number was 113-234-6301 which according to ARP are the ones that are torqued to 40 ft-lbs, with ARP lube to get them to strech .0064 "
P/N 113-134-6006, is torqued to 45 ft-lbs with ARP lube to get them to strech .0055 "
Sorry (smacks forehead)
i didnt mention the part # / specifics
its the ARP Cracked rod "Pro" it had the number 2000 on the bolt head.
but the part number was 113-234-6301 which according to ARP are the ones that are torqued to 40 ft-lbs, with ARP lube to get them to strech .0064 "
P/N 113-134-6006, is torqued to 45 ft-lbs with ARP lube to get them to strech .0055 "
i didnt mention the part # / specifics
its the ARP Cracked rod "Pro" it had the number 2000 on the bolt head.
but the part number was 113-234-6301 which according to ARP are the ones that are torqued to 40 ft-lbs, with ARP lube to get them to strech .0064 "
P/N 113-134-6006, is torqued to 45 ft-lbs with ARP lube to get them to strech .0055 "
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