Tore my engine down and found a few things I do not like pics inside..
01-11-2004, 11:10 PM
#22
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I did find milky oil in my accordian hose but neither of my headgaskets blew so I am kinda wondering how all that oil got there? I tried another pcv just to make sure but it did the same thing with the new pcv so It would be odd of it was sucking that much oil in but who knows with all that crankcase pressure I had it probably blew oil up through it.
Slowhawk thanks for the advice on my next tuning session I am definatly gonna make it richer.
Slowhawk thanks for the advice on my next tuning session I am definatly gonna make it richer.
01-12-2004, 01:06 PM
#24
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Ill take a pic of it when I get home, hopefully somebody here knows what its for. Its a cluster on the drivers side right before the rear end where the body starts to roll up to make room for the rear end.
01-12-2004, 01:19 PM
#25
Originally Posted by Mike K.
Ill take a pic of it when I get home, hopefully somebody here knows what its for. Its a cluster on the drivers side right before the rear end where the body starts to roll up to make room for the rear end.
The reason I say this is when my car got flatbedded for a blown clutch, they strapped the rear down and pulled out one of these sensors and my traction control became disabled.
Do you have TCS? If not, maybe it's an extra wire that they threw on every f-body, but only the tcs cars got receptacles for.
01-12-2004, 10:25 PM
#27
"I did find milky oil in my accordian hose but neither of my headgaskets blew so I am kinda wondering how all that oil got there?"
Do you have a K&N oil filter? Do you have FTRA? It's possible it's oil from the filter itself. I had that issue last year, first autox in the rain. Freaked me out as it even went on the MAF wires.
Do you have a K&N oil filter? Do you have FTRA? It's possible it's oil from the filter itself. I had that issue last year, first autox in the rain. Freaked me out as it even went on the MAF wires.
01-13-2004, 11:38 AM
#28
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13.1 is good for a steady state load like a dyno but you need to have a little more room for the dynamic load of everyday driving ie different gear ratios and throttle positions
sorry to see your pistons hope you get it all worked out
Jay
sorry to see your pistons hope you get it all worked out
Jay
01-13-2004, 03:50 PM
#32
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thanks,, looks like im just gonna have to make it richer next time around,, now that I think about it my abs light was on ever since I dyno'd the last time. I saw this happen one other time after I got off the dyno so I wrote it off as normal. I bet this time the plug got pulled out somehow. Looks like my issue here was mainly the tune. 
01-13-2004, 05:11 PM
#33
13.1 on a dyno is too lean. there isn't a lot of load on a dyno. when you run it on the street with more (real-life) load conditions, it will lean up even more, probably around 13.5 or so (just a guess). like the others said, keep your a/f in the mid 12's while on a dynojet. sorry dude and good luck with the rebuild.
01-13-2004, 05:52 PM
#34
Originally Posted by LASTLS1
The pistons are burnt off on the exhaust side due to excessive exhaust gas temps! Running too lean with octane too low. Each cylinder will act differently. You could have one piston with a hole in the center and the next one could be fine! They round off like that from the heat flowing past the piston into the header! My guess would be that your exhaust gas temps were higher than 1400 deg.!! Richen up a little, and try to find better gas! BTW did you know your a/f ratio? I would like to know. Good luck Andy.
01-13-2004, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike K.
It was done up North by JPR when I went to up there to get the head/cam package. It was at JD's dyno. MY a/f was right at 13.1 during the runs and my timing was set to 28 degrees. Damn Jason those pistons were messed up, I'm anxious to see what mine look like after the tear down.
I usually send cars out at 12.5-7:1 remember cars get leaner on the street!
