Question about cam break in...
Question about cam break in... So I'm putting in a used LS6 cam and springs in a week or so. I know, I know, it's not worth it, blah, blah, blah. I have very little money to throw around right now and this is costing me VERY little. Anyway...
So my question is, since I'm installing all used parts except for the pushrods, does the cam need any break in time? Do I still have to change the oil after 100 miles, or can I just let it go until the next oil change?
Thanks.
So my question is, since I'm installing all used parts except for the pushrods, does the cam need any break in time? Do I still have to change the oil after 100 miles, or can I just let it go until the next oil change?
Thanks.
Exactly, there is no real break in required for roller cams these days. Break in's were for the hydraulic old school cams.
The only thing that needs some cycling are the valve springs when using a high lift camshaft, which you are not.
So stick it in and RUN IT !
The only thing that needs some cycling are the valve springs when using a high lift camshaft, which you are not.
So stick it in and RUN IT !
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as recommended by most cam manufacturers..including Comp Cams...
a short break in period after initial install...
use assembly lube to put it together...
upon start up bring motor to approximately 2000-2500 rpm for 15-20 minutes...
allowing the motor to get to full operating temperatures and ensuring that all assembly lube gets circulated and thinned out into the oil...
drain and replace oil...
drive it away.
springs break in is a whole different story... so dont go WOT right away with a new cam and new springs...
couple of heat cycles and work your way up to higher rpm's each time you run the car......avoid knock at all costs...knock can cause sudden jerking and stress that can prematurely weaken new springs
a short break in period after initial install...
use assembly lube to put it together...
upon start up bring motor to approximately 2000-2500 rpm for 15-20 minutes...
allowing the motor to get to full operating temperatures and ensuring that all assembly lube gets circulated and thinned out into the oil...
drain and replace oil...
drive it away.
springs break in is a whole different story... so dont go WOT right away with a new cam and new springs...
couple of heat cycles and work your way up to higher rpm's each time you run the car......avoid knock at all costs...knock can cause sudden jerking and stress that can prematurely weaken new springs
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as recommended by most cam manufacturers..including Comp Cams...
a short break in period after initial install...
use assembly lube to put it together...
upon start up bring motor to approximately 2000-2500 rpm for 15-20 minutes...
allowing the motor to get to full operating temperatures and ensuring that all assembly lube gets circulated and thinned out into the oil...
drain and replace oil...
drive it away.
springs break in is a whole different story... so dont go WOT right away with a new cam and new springs...
couple of heat cycles and work your way up to higher rpm's each time you run the car......avoid knock at all costs...knock can cause sudden jerking and stress that can prematurely weaken new springs
a short break in period after initial install...
use assembly lube to put it together...
upon start up bring motor to approximately 2000-2500 rpm for 15-20 minutes...
allowing the motor to get to full operating temperatures and ensuring that all assembly lube gets circulated and thinned out into the oil...
drain and replace oil...
drive it away.
springs break in is a whole different story... so dont go WOT right away with a new cam and new springs...
couple of heat cycles and work your way up to higher rpm's each time you run the car......avoid knock at all costs...knock can cause sudden jerking and stress that can prematurely weaken new springs
