Future mods for 2000 Trans am
#1
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Future mods for 2000 Trans am
Transmission/suspension:
4.56 Gears
98-02 LS1 Ram HDX Performance Clutch Set
98-02 LS1 Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel
93-02 Koni Camaro/Firebird Sport Shocks(Fronts) Single Adj.
93-02 Koni Camaro/Firebird Sport Shocks(Rears) Single Adj.
98-02 LS1 Eibach ProKit Performance Springs
Engine/Exhaust
98-02 LS1 Hypertech 180* Thermostat
98-02 LS1 BBK Full Length Header System & OFY (Chrome)
98-02 LS1 MSD Blaster Coil Kit (Set of 8)
98-02 LS1 MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor Wire Set
98-02 Fast Toys LS1 Black 104mm LS1 High Flow Air Lid
FAST LSXR Intake Manifold (102mm Inlet) Manifold For LS1/LS2/LS6
98-02 LS1 Nick Williams 102mm Throttle Body
98-02 LS1 Fbody Fast Toys Performance TSP 100mm MAF Sensor
98-02 Comp Cams Xtreme XE-R 232/234
Manley Perf. Valve Springs Single Spring w/o Damper Max Lift .57
Dyno Tune. Want To know if there is prolly anything better or these are good enough parts that will get me to over 400rwhp without heads
4.56 Gears
98-02 LS1 Ram HDX Performance Clutch Set
98-02 LS1 Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel
93-02 Koni Camaro/Firebird Sport Shocks(Fronts) Single Adj.
93-02 Koni Camaro/Firebird Sport Shocks(Rears) Single Adj.
98-02 LS1 Eibach ProKit Performance Springs
Engine/Exhaust
98-02 LS1 Hypertech 180* Thermostat
98-02 LS1 BBK Full Length Header System & OFY (Chrome)
98-02 LS1 MSD Blaster Coil Kit (Set of 8)
98-02 LS1 MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor Wire Set
98-02 Fast Toys LS1 Black 104mm LS1 High Flow Air Lid
FAST LSXR Intake Manifold (102mm Inlet) Manifold For LS1/LS2/LS6
98-02 LS1 Nick Williams 102mm Throttle Body
98-02 LS1 Fbody Fast Toys Performance TSP 100mm MAF Sensor
98-02 Comp Cams Xtreme XE-R 232/234
Manley Perf. Valve Springs Single Spring w/o Damper Max Lift .57
Dyno Tune. Want To know if there is prolly anything better or these are good enough parts that will get me to over 400rwhp without heads
#3
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I would take out the MSD blaster coils, and try to find the 6.0 truck coils, been proven and you can probably find them cheaper, and its just a personal thing but i wouldnt go with chrome headers..i would try stainless, but good combo so far
#4
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I hated my bumpstop riding Eibachs on my old LT1 car. They sucked so bad I bought a set of stockers and put back on...IMO literallly almost anything else is better and I have ridden/driven several brands....
X2 on the MSD coils
Big TB's like that won't gain you anythig unless you are BIG cubes and can be a PIA to tune.... same with that MAF..... both overkill......
X2 on the MSD coils
Big TB's like that won't gain you anythig unless you are BIG cubes and can be a PIA to tune.... same with that MAF..... both overkill......
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#10
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#14
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With those parts listed, you're going to spend a whole bunch of money to get less than stellar results. Lemme break it down for you..
-You do not want to put 4:56 gears in a 10 bolt. You'll shatter them the first time the tires stick. Do not go any higher than a 4:10.
-Ram clutches are decent. Not a bad choice there.
-Unless you can shift lightening fast, do not run a Fidanza flywheel. They're too light and lose a lot of momentum during shifts. I've seen this flywheel slow down a LOT of cars. Lighter does not always mean better. Get a billet steel.
-Why the Koni's? Put a set of Bilstein revalved HD shocks on there with some Eibach springs. It'll handle nearly the exact same, for 1/4 the cost.
-For $100 more, you can get a much better header selection from Pacesetter, opposed to the BBK's. The BBK's are ok, but they have garbage ball flanges and a 2.5 Ypipe.
-MSD coils are junk and a waste of money. I've seen several of them fail. Stock GM coils are good to very high HP levels. Another waste of money.
-MSD wires are junk. Run a GM LS2 wire. Better than MSD, half the cost.
-A fast 102mm is an overkill for a cam only car. Cam only LS1's only need a 90mm at best, for cost effective gains.
-The 232/234 cam is not a very good grind. Never seen one make power that was impressive. Drop down into the 228/232 or 230/232 range on a 112-113+4. You'll get better results and more TQ.
-Comp 918 springs work just fine with an XE-R lobe if set up properly. No need to buy a heavy spring that's going to cost you power unless you're running .600-.620 lift with a square lobe.
In closing, stop reading the parts catalogs and making your decisions off of vendors claims. Do some research. You can achieve your goals for a lot less money. I do it every day.
-You do not want to put 4:56 gears in a 10 bolt. You'll shatter them the first time the tires stick. Do not go any higher than a 4:10.
-Ram clutches are decent. Not a bad choice there.
-Unless you can shift lightening fast, do not run a Fidanza flywheel. They're too light and lose a lot of momentum during shifts. I've seen this flywheel slow down a LOT of cars. Lighter does not always mean better. Get a billet steel.
-Why the Koni's? Put a set of Bilstein revalved HD shocks on there with some Eibach springs. It'll handle nearly the exact same, for 1/4 the cost.
-For $100 more, you can get a much better header selection from Pacesetter, opposed to the BBK's. The BBK's are ok, but they have garbage ball flanges and a 2.5 Ypipe.
-MSD coils are junk and a waste of money. I've seen several of them fail. Stock GM coils are good to very high HP levels. Another waste of money.
-MSD wires are junk. Run a GM LS2 wire. Better than MSD, half the cost.
-A fast 102mm is an overkill for a cam only car. Cam only LS1's only need a 90mm at best, for cost effective gains.
-The 232/234 cam is not a very good grind. Never seen one make power that was impressive. Drop down into the 228/232 or 230/232 range on a 112-113+4. You'll get better results and more TQ.
-Comp 918 springs work just fine with an XE-R lobe if set up properly. No need to buy a heavy spring that's going to cost you power unless you're running .600-.620 lift with a square lobe.
In closing, stop reading the parts catalogs and making your decisions off of vendors claims. Do some research. You can achieve your goals for a lot less money. I do it every day.
#15
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Thanks Man, I posted this then Started doin alot of research. And I changed my WHOLE mod list and you just made me change it a little more. Lol. But I have also been lookin for ls6 shortblocks to incase I find one cheap.
#17
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yes and no. lean more towards the no part cause unless your an engine builder your still goin to have to buy a block and have it machined etc etc etc so your better off goin through a good place to get a engine already built. and yeah talk with ron at vengeance, give him a call if pm doesn't get answered. personally i'd suggest a ported 102 with a 92tb, i'm no genius but even i know you wont need a 102 tb