6.0 lq4 swap
6.0 lq4 swap im thinking on buying an lq4 that i found for a killer price...but i would like to know how much work needs to be done in order to do the swap and if all my current accessories will bolt right up? and of-course if its worth it?...they are asking for $600 for the lq4 out of an 06 truck with less than 30k on it, it also comes with heads and water-pump...should i get it?
That is a great price but what is the reason for the swap? If you are planning just to swap it out with no plans of changing out the top end or a turbo build, there is really nothing to gain. Ask other guys on here who have done the swap with the L92/LS3 top end - it's a great combo. Or you could do a turbo build...
Anyways, here are some minor details reguarding the swap:
-You will need your oil pan and intake off of the LS1 - the intake off of the trucks is too tall and the oil pan doesn't fit the F-bodies.
-The TB coolant lines are different than the LS1. You will have to buy about 6 inches of rubber hose and slightly (and GENTLY) tweak the metal coolant line to clear the intake.
-I had problems getting the truck coils to clear the small evap thingy on the fuel rail (correct me if that isn't what its called lol)
-The oil filler neck that was on the trucks is too tall and you will need one from an F-Body.
-The oil pressure sending unit that comes on the truck engines is a 3 wire and not a 1 wire like the LS1's so you will need one off of an LS1.
-The alternator bracket will only be held in by 2 bolts unless you tap the other one. I did not, and I haven't had any problems.
-You may want to use the pulley off of the truck power steering pump. It is metal unlike the cheap plastic that the F-bodies use and it is the same size, just more durable and you don't have to worry about it cracking when you hammer it on the pump.
-Make sure you keep all of your accesories and brackets as I don't think the truck ones will work without modification. Also, you will need the crankshaft pulley off of the LS1 since the truck pulley won't line up with the rest of the accesories.
Some of the above may not apply to you but for me they did since I bought a complete LQ9 from intake to pan.
Anyways, here are some minor details reguarding the swap:
-You will need your oil pan and intake off of the LS1 - the intake off of the trucks is too tall and the oil pan doesn't fit the F-bodies.
-The TB coolant lines are different than the LS1. You will have to buy about 6 inches of rubber hose and slightly (and GENTLY) tweak the metal coolant line to clear the intake.
-I had problems getting the truck coils to clear the small evap thingy on the fuel rail (correct me if that isn't what its called lol)
-The oil filler neck that was on the trucks is too tall and you will need one from an F-Body.
-The oil pressure sending unit that comes on the truck engines is a 3 wire and not a 1 wire like the LS1's so you will need one off of an LS1.
-The alternator bracket will only be held in by 2 bolts unless you tap the other one. I did not, and I haven't had any problems.
-You may want to use the pulley off of the truck power steering pump. It is metal unlike the cheap plastic that the F-bodies use and it is the same size, just more durable and you don't have to worry about it cracking when you hammer it on the pump.
-Make sure you keep all of your accesories and brackets as I don't think the truck ones will work without modification. Also, you will need the crankshaft pulley off of the LS1 since the truck pulley won't line up with the rest of the accesories.
Some of the above may not apply to you but for me they did since I bought a complete LQ9 from intake to pan.
That is a great price but what is the reason for the swap? If you are planning just to swap it out with no plans of changing out the top end or a turbo build, there is really nothing to gain. Ask other guys on here who have done the swap with the L92/LS3 top end - it's a great combo. Or you could do a turbo build...
Anyways, here are some minor details reguarding the swap:
-You will need your oil pan and intake off of the LS1 - the intake off of the trucks is too tall and the oil pan doesn't fit the F-bodies.
-The TB coolant lines are different than the LS1. You will have to buy about 6 inches of rubber hose and slightly (and GENTLY) tweak the metal coolant line to clear the intake.
-I had problems getting the truck coils to clear the small evap thingy on the fuel rail (correct me if that isn't what its called lol)
-The oil filler neck that was on the trucks is too tall and you will need one from an F-Body.
-The oil pressure sending unit that comes on the truck engines is a 3 wire and not a 1 wire like the LS1's so you will need one off of an LS1.
-The alternator bracket will only be held in by 2 bolts unless you tap the other one. I did not, and I haven't had any problems.
-You may want to use the pulley off of the truck power steering pump. It is metal unlike the cheap plastic that the F-bodies use and it is the same size, just more durable and you don't have to worry about it cracking when you hammer it on the pump.
-Make sure you keep all of your accesories and brackets as I don't think the truck ones will work without modification. Also, you will need the crankshaft pulley off of the LS1 since the truck pulley won't line up with the rest of the accesories.
Some of the above may not apply to you but for me they did since I bought a complete LQ9 from intake to pan.
Anyways, here are some minor details reguarding the swap:
-You will need your oil pan and intake off of the LS1 - the intake off of the trucks is too tall and the oil pan doesn't fit the F-bodies.
-The TB coolant lines are different than the LS1. You will have to buy about 6 inches of rubber hose and slightly (and GENTLY) tweak the metal coolant line to clear the intake.
-I had problems getting the truck coils to clear the small evap thingy on the fuel rail (correct me if that isn't what its called lol)
-The oil filler neck that was on the trucks is too tall and you will need one from an F-Body.
-The oil pressure sending unit that comes on the truck engines is a 3 wire and not a 1 wire like the LS1's so you will need one off of an LS1.
-The alternator bracket will only be held in by 2 bolts unless you tap the other one. I did not, and I haven't had any problems.
-You may want to use the pulley off of the truck power steering pump. It is metal unlike the cheap plastic that the F-bodies use and it is the same size, just more durable and you don't have to worry about it cracking when you hammer it on the pump.
-Make sure you keep all of your accesories and brackets as I don't think the truck ones will work without modification. Also, you will need the crankshaft pulley off of the LS1 since the truck pulley won't line up with the rest of the accesories.
Some of the above may not apply to you but for me they did since I bought a complete LQ9 from intake to pan.
TECH Addict
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 2,481
Likes: 5
From: PA/MD
Yup, physically other than the extra 87lbs and lack of one alt mount bolt hole the ls1 and lq4/9 are same, its the intake and accessories that are different.....while you have it out, take the barbell and oil plugs out of the back and back drivers side of the block and look real good in there for any buildup or blockage in the oil ports....then don't forget to put them all back in.
TECH Addict
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 2,481
Likes: 5
From: PA/MD
If you are going n2o, you might want to look into getting the heads really milled down good to bump compression up, then go with a small dished piston......this keeps most of the combustion press focused on the center of the piston, where s slight dome directs more force out to the thin ring lands.
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Cloverdale, BC, Canada
lol at oil filler neck.... twist and pull and it comes out, truck cap will fit right on where the spout was... also the metal coolant crossover can be installed on the rear of the block if you switch the blockers to the front...
