Bolts or studs?
TECH Resident
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 857
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From: Orlando
GM head bolts are plenty satisfactory. ARP's may be a bit stronger than the OE bolts are. The studs will have the best clamping ability, but are not necessary by any means. If you plan on spray, go studs. The only pending issue with studs is sometimes they need a re-torquing sequence. That could be a PITA.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 328
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From: Texas
Originally Posted by NDR PRSR
Studs are regarded to be the best alternative, however, you'd have to drop the motor to change the heads out (not enough room) so most people go with the ARP bolts.
I guess you have never changed heads on a LS1 motor with studs. There is more than enough room to put the heads on and take them back off with the studs in place. No need to drop the motor.
<---- Took heads off 3 times in car with studs.
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 140
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From: San Diego, CA
Originally Posted by Smoke T/A
I guess you have never changed heads on a LS1 motor with studs. There is more than enough room to put the heads on and take them back off with the studs in place. No need to drop the motor.
<---- Took heads off 3 times in car with studs.
<---- Took heads off 3 times in car with studs.
I stand corrected.
I only use studs on the Head installs.They are stronger and I do not like torqing Head bolts into our blocks.The threads are never clean enough to give accurate torque stretch readings.
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TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 328
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From: Texas
Originally Posted by NDR PRSR
Hmmm...you're right. When I was making this same decision, a couple shops talked me out of studs for that reason, and given how (relatively) tight the engine compartment is it sounded reasonable, but no, never used them.
I stand corrected.
I stand corrected.
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Originally Posted by Slowhawk
I only use studs on the Head installs.They are stronger and I do not like torqing Head bolts into our blocks.The threads are never clean enough to give accurate torque stretch readings.
