Ok guy, so I got screwed by life again & had to sell off all my parts for my build to catch up some bills. So I'm to the frusteration point since this has happened 4 times now. I just wanna freshen up my current short block as cheap as possible.

How many people have just pulled their short block in good running condition & only replaced the bearings & rings? I'd like to throw new cam bearings, main/rod bearings & rings at this thing & call it a day if possible.

Engine currently runs just fine, but has about 150k miles on it. So I'm thinkin later this year I'd like to refresh it. I was also thinkin about some ARP rod bolts while I was in there. Possibly a LS6 oil pump too.

When we did my H/C swap the block still had the original cross hatchings. So I'm guessing if it still does when tore down the cylinders would be just fine for a new set of rings on the stock pistons? What should I look out for, are there any do's & donts of a engine freshening like this? Can it even be done without machine work & not take a dump 500 miles after?

I'm on a pretty tight budget & would be perfectly happy with just a simple fresh short block since its my daily driver.

 

Ya you could do a quick re-fresh. Just get new bearings for rod and main, I prob wouldn't worry about the cam bearings unless you just want to. Have the block honed and add the new rings and throw it all back together and your good to go.

Cost will be around $200 for clevite bearings main and rod. $100 for the rings, and depends on machine shop how much they charge for a hone (usually cheap).So say around $400 for a nice re-fresh and alot of labor.

 

Yea, I got a friend that will be helpin me with the labor & re-assembly. He has built a few of these engines.

I'm curious though if the bores still have the factory cross hatchings & check out with a mic to be within spec, do I really need to have it honed for the new stock rings? Or will the new rings just not seat properly for some reason?

 

Anytime new rings are added, I would always re-hone so the rings will seat correctly.

 

So would it be safe to say that if all cylinders pass a leakdown test the rings are fine & I could just throw new bearings/ARP rod bolts at the bottom end & button it up?

 

Ya just do a compression and leak down check prior to pulling the heads off. After you get a warm compression reading add a cap of oil into the cylinder and try it again. If it goes up considerably then maybe you might want to think of some new rings.

 

Alright I'll do that first then.