View Poll Results: Which would you do first then second?
Procharger first, then do H&C later
19
41.30%
H&C first, then do Procharger later
27
58.70%
Voters: 46. You may not vote on this poll
H&C or ProCharger - Which one first? Poll
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From: Joliet,IL and Las Vegas 50/50
H&C or ProCharger - Which one first? Poll So guys, I've been going back and forth with my build and I can't quite figure out what would be the best route to go. I eventually want to have a nice H&C procharged setup, but for those that have gone this route which have you done first. Basically I'm breaking out my build over the winter seasons for the next couple years. My initial thought was go procharger this winter, then the following winter do a H&C package that would work well with the procharger(thats if I feel like I need a little more umpf
). Not sure what cam+heads to get with the procharger though. Below is what I currently have for the car.
So what would some of you LS1 veterans do Procharger first, then H&C later? H&C first and procharger later? I'll worry about the trans, driveshaft, diff when i get there. I figure if my trans gives way then it's a perfect excuse to send it to FLT for rebuild to handle more power.
Car and Current Mods:
01 WS6 T/A 4AT 60K miles
-ARH LTH's w/ catted Y
-Magnaflow Catback
-FTP Lid
-Nitto 555r 275 front/315 rear
Mods in the Box (going on soon)
-UMI panhard bar - on car adjustable
-UMI LCA w/ relocation brackets
-UMI tunnel mount torque arm
-UMI subframe connectors
-Yank SS3600 torque converter
-B&M Trans Cooler
-KYB AGX front and rear shocks
). Not sure what cam+heads to get with the procharger though. Below is what I currently have for the car. So what would some of you LS1 veterans do Procharger first, then H&C later? H&C first and procharger later? I'll worry about the trans, driveshaft, diff when i get there. I figure if my trans gives way then it's a perfect excuse to send it to FLT for rebuild to handle more power.
Car and Current Mods:
01 WS6 T/A 4AT 60K miles
-ARH LTH's w/ catted Y
-Magnaflow Catback
-FTP Lid
-Nitto 555r 275 front/315 rear
Mods in the Box (going on soon)
-UMI panhard bar - on car adjustable
-UMI LCA w/ relocation brackets
-UMI tunnel mount torque arm
-UMI subframe connectors
-Yank SS3600 torque converter
-B&M Trans Cooler
-KYB AGX front and rear shocks
Thread Starter
9 Second Club
iTrader: (10)
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 1,230
Likes: 3
From: Joliet,IL and Las Vegas 50/50
No posts yet I got 5 people who voted procharger first vs 0 for H/C. Anyone want to comment on why they'd go this route? I'm leaning this way myself, but want to hear from you guys.
So guys, I've been going back and forth with my build and I can't quite figure out what would be the best route to go. I eventually want to have a nice H&C procharged setup, but for those that have gone this route which have you done first. Basically I'm breaking out my build over the winter seasons for the next couple years. My initial thought was go procharger this winter, then the following winter do a H&C package that would work well with the procharger(thats if I feel like I need a little more umpf). Not sure what cam+heads to get with the procharger though. Below is what I currently have for the car.
So what would some of you LS1 veterans do Procharger first, then H&C later? H&C first and procharger later? I'll worry about the trans, driveshaft, diff when i get there. I figure if my trans gives way then it's a perfect excuse to send it to FLT for rebuild to handle more power.
Car and Current Mods:
01 WS6 T/A 4AT 60K miles
-ARH LTH's w/ catted Y
-Magnaflow Catback
-FTP Lid
-Nitto 555r 275 front/315 rear
Mods in the Box (going on soon)
-UMI panhard bar - on car adjustable
-UMI LCA w/ relocation brackets
-UMI tunnel mount torque arm
-UMI subframe connectors
-Yank SS3600 torque converter
-B&M Trans Cooler
-KYB AGX front and rear shocks
). Not sure what cam+heads to get with the procharger though. Below is what I currently have for the car. So what would some of you LS1 veterans do Procharger first, then H&C later? H&C first and procharger later? I'll worry about the trans, driveshaft, diff when i get there. I figure if my trans gives way then it's a perfect excuse to send it to FLT for rebuild to handle more power.
Car and Current Mods:
01 WS6 T/A 4AT 60K miles
-ARH LTH's w/ catted Y
-Magnaflow Catback
-FTP Lid
-Nitto 555r 275 front/315 rear
Mods in the Box (going on soon)
-UMI panhard bar - on car adjustable
-UMI LCA w/ relocation brackets
-UMI tunnel mount torque arm
-UMI subframe connectors
-Yank SS3600 torque converter
-B&M Trans Cooler
-KYB AGX front and rear shocks
i would highly suggest beefing up your tranny and rearend first that way it takes the abuse. makes no sense to spend X amount of cash to have your tranny give out during a tune or on the way back.. build your tranny and rear end to take the abuse.
but if i had to pick, i would definitely do a H/C setup first. its cheaper, plus depending on yourset you might be happy with the power it makes
The H/C gives you a good base with the heads. The cam is easily changed to an FI cam. And you can get the "sleeper" affect if you roll out with H/C and switch to FI later. But you can make some serious power with a good h/c set-up and +1 on the trans and rear-end. When yuo put in the stall, you might as well do a rebuild and shift kit. The rear is just a ticking time bomb with that torque arm and any other suspension putting more power to the ground.
Thread Starter
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From: Joliet,IL and Las Vegas 50/50
I definitely want to build up the trans and rear end down the road but from what I've been hearing the A4 trans can hold up well up to about 500 crank hp. If it breaks, then yeah, it's in the budget to get rebuilt. Along with the rear end as well. Me thoughts were to do something like
Procharger -> beef up/rebuild trans and rear end -> H/C/I for more power. Only intend to run about 8lbs of boost.
Procharger -> beef up/rebuild trans and rear end -> H/C/I for more power. Only intend to run about 8lbs of boost.
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you need to udnerstand 500 crank is good for mid to low 400 wheel, especially in the parasitic A4 loss game. Any decent h/c/i setup will put you at the breaking poiint there. autos are easier on the rear ends by a little, but with where your tlaking about going its going to not last much longer than the trans
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9 Second Club
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From: Joliet,IL and Las Vegas 50/50
^ok, what about the rear end? Lets say I build up the trans but would the rear end be good for. Sounds like if I want to enjoy some power now I could get away with a nice H/C/I setup(winter1), then beef up the trans and rear(winter 2), then add a procharger(winter3) to the mix. This way I could enjoy a some umph before having to support more power. Guess I just want to get some power as I go and if I dedicate to beefing up the trans and rear I'll be missing out on enjoying some power as I'm trying to put a good 6-7K per season in the car.
^ok, what about the rear end? Lets say I build up the trans but would the rear end be good for. Sounds like if I want to enjoy some power now I could get away with a nice H/C/I setup(winter1), then beef up the trans and rear(winter 2), then add a procharger(winter3) to the mix. This way I could enjoy a some umph before having to support more power. Guess I just want to get some power as I go and if I dedicate to beefing up the trans and rear I'll be missing out on enjoying some power as I'm trying to put a good 6-7K per season in the car.
I vote H/C because I have seen quite a few procharged cars making under 500. With the right H/C/I you will be making the same power with less issues due to boost, such as heat, extra crap all over the motor, weight etc etc...
Go with a big single turbo instead
Like stated I would do tranny, rear end, breaks, I would do everything else before cutting into your engine. This comes from years of experience and cutting into engines and having issues with over powering my breaks, my tranny, and my rear ends. Having issues with fuel because I didn't have the right fuel pump or the right injectors. Everyone goes through this but i would make sure that you have everything in place to handle the hp ur gonna be making.
Good luck keep us posted
Oh and if you are going to do it right match your heads to your cam get a good FI cam that will work well with the correct PC.
Good luck keep us posted
Oh and if you are going to do it right match your heads to your cam get a good FI cam that will work well with the correct PC.
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9 Second Club
iTrader: (10)
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^Thats a good point man, I want a well matched set of heads and FI cam because I do want to go with the Procharger later. What can be recommended for a FI cam and heads for a weekend cruiser. Want to be in the middle range, but rather lean toward aggressive than mild as this is only a weekend around town car that will see the strip here and there. I don't really want to swap out a MS3 or MS4 for a blower cam if I can do it now and enjoy a decent bump in power. I understand that I may not get the HP with a FI cam in a NA setup, but room to grow is good. Any Suggestions?
Last edited by willizm; Jun 30, 2010 at 11:23 AM.
^Thats a good point man, I want a well matched set of heads and FI cam because I do want to go with the Procharger later. What can be recommended for a FI cam and heads for a weekend cruiser. Want to be in the middle range, but rather lean toward aggressive than mild as this is only a weekend around town car that will see the strip here and there. I don't really want to swap out a MS3 or MS4 for a blower cam if I can do it now and enjoy a decent bump in power. I understand that I may not get the HP with a FI cam in a NA setup, but room to grow is good. Any Suggestions?
none of the above.
i would pull and sell or store the ls1.
and drop in a upgraded lq4 6.0
build your fuel system and drive train. for the abuse of forced induction.
the stock lq4 can handle 10psi on pump gas as is with correct tune and adequate fuel. and fmic. assuming the engine is healthy and low miles.
the 6.0 can also make more power than an equally prepared 5.7 ls1.
i would pull and sell or store the ls1.
and drop in a upgraded lq4 6.0
build your fuel system and drive train. for the abuse of forced induction.
the stock lq4 can handle 10psi on pump gas as is with correct tune and adequate fuel. and fmic. assuming the engine is healthy and low miles.
the 6.0 can also make more power than an equally prepared 5.7 ls1.
My brother did a short block 421ci all forged with I beam rods and all gaskets for 3300 thats including parts and labor (They had a 6.0 iron block they provide). But s/c i been seeing them as low *** 2000
none of the above.
i would pull and sell or store the ls1.
and drop in a upgraded lq4 6.0
build your fuel system and drive train. for the abuse of forced induction.
the stock lq4 can handle 10psi on pump gas as is with correct tune and adequate fuel. and fmic. assuming the engine is healthy and low miles.
the 6.0 can also make more power than an equally prepared 5.7 ls1.
i would pull and sell or store the ls1.
and drop in a upgraded lq4 6.0
build your fuel system and drive train. for the abuse of forced induction.
the stock lq4 can handle 10psi on pump gas as is with correct tune and adequate fuel. and fmic. assuming the engine is healthy and low miles.
the 6.0 can also make more power than an equally prepared 5.7 ls1.
Those are very impressive numbers on a completely stock bottom en LS1. What it comes down to is tune. There is a lot more potential on the lq4 you are right, but if the op wants to use his fairly "new" ls1 then that is the way to go. I don't doubt your expertise or your knowledge on this but...this will save the OP a few dollars.
If I were you I would buy a Procharger and slap that on. Make some great power then if you want more get a set of 317 truck heads and slap an EPP/Brute Speed blower cam in there and call it a day. A buddy of mine made 592rwhp on 10psi with his Stock bottum end and head and cam combo above. They make amazing very streetable power.
