Just curious what the general consensus on "no-no's" is.... I put a G5-X2 cam along with a keyed ATI superdamper in my old yellow '01 Z06 w/o issue... I followed ls1howto.com closely and used the crank pulley install tool available on here.

Now I'm getting ready to tear into my Z06 TTA/PTA track car build to put in a fresh LS2 chain and fresh oil pump (car has 119,xxx on it) just as general reliability mods. While I'm in there I'll be installing a 10% underdriven ATI superdamper w/o AC provisions. I will be pinning the balancer again w/ the ATI vertical pin kit, but this time I'll be using an ARP bolt w their moly lube torqued to 190 ft/lbs vs. the OEM bolt stretch procedure.

Trying to refresh my memory on what not to do....

Thanks,

Brian

 

From what I have read here and in Joseph Potak's book:

do not use the bolt to pull on the damper (it won't engage a sufficient number of threads in the crank; the bolt turning in the crank encounters a large amount of friction which either carries threads with it or twists and breaks);

use threaded rod driven almost all the way into the crank, and nut/washers/lube to pull the damper on.

 

Thats right, not enough treads with stock bolt.
I just hit the bolt supply warehouse picked up a longer bolt and used that to get the balancer on, then finish up with the intended bolt to be used.

 

I'm using thraded rod w/ wahers and a nut to push it on.

 

I agree with this completely, but will take it a step further. Even with a longer bolt that does engage more threads, the friction on the threads when turning the bolt to drive on the damper could still destroy them. When you use something that engages all or most of the threads and drive it on with a nut on the other side of the damper there is no friction on the crank threads, just force.

 

Thats a very good point, interesting.
I will try this method next time as it makes perfect sense.

 

Use an install tool like you did last time. When i installed my Powerbond, i first dropped the balancer in boiling water for a few minutes to get it hot.. I also cooled the crank snout with a can of compressed air held upside-down. It wasnt necesary, but the more clearance you can get between the two, during install, the easier it will go on. Also lightly coated the snout in anti-sieze to make it even easier. spun it on lightly with an impact set to low, and once it stopped, torque in my ARP bolt.