Cam Question-Urgent
Cam Question-Urgent I might be buying a cam tommorrow for my 98 SS. The motor is completely stock. A friend of mine has a cam that was in his car for about 3000 miles he will sell me for $200. I have heard, over camming a stock motor is the way to go. Is this true from all of you guys experience?
Cam specs 237/239 603/612 112
When I put that in I am gonna go with a new valve springs, retainers, and push rods. Which are the best I should go with?
Also, should I save up the money to get my computer reprogrammed? I was thinking about going ahead and doing that just so I don't have any problems.
Let me know what you guys think. Thanks.
Cam specs 237/239 603/612 112
When I put that in I am gonna go with a new valve springs, retainers, and push rods. Which are the best I should go with?
Also, should I save up the money to get my computer reprogrammed? I was thinking about going ahead and doing that just so I don't have any problems.
Let me know what you guys think. Thanks.
Yeha, thats too big for a stock motor. Tell your briend thanks and then look for somehtign else in the bulliten boards (sales dept.).
Im not sure you can fit that cam in the P/V clearance. And besides, it really would be a dog with stock manifolds.
chris
Im not sure you can fit that cam in the P/V clearance. And besides, it really would be a dog with stock manifolds.
chris
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Raleigh, NC
Ditto on what they are saying.
From what I have seen it is true that the more duration you throw at these engines the more power you will make, however there is not much of a point of lifting the valve over .560 with stock heads. If you plan on aftermarket heads the sky is the limit for lift. It is a good idea to go with dual springs on anything with .580+ lift, and mentioned above you really need midlength or LT headers to unlock a camshaft mod (especially on a '98).
-Nick
From what I have seen it is true that the more duration you throw at these engines the more power you will make, however there is not much of a point of lifting the valve over .560 with stock heads. If you plan on aftermarket heads the sky is the limit for lift. It is a good idea to go with dual springs on anything with .580+ lift, and mentioned above you really need midlength or LT headers to unlock a camshaft mod (especially on a '98).
-Nick
Well, I was planning heads and complete exhaust. If I went with 6.0L heads and replaced header back, would it be a good idea. I am in no rush to install the cam, just to go ahead and buy it. I was planning on waiting a month or two before installing it anyway. Because when I do things, I try to do them right. So I am waiting to save the money to reprogram the computer and buy other parts. That cam, 6.0L heads, headers. I am thinking that would be a good setup. My only concern is the power loss from the lower compression with those heads. I am not planning forced induction. Maybe an insurance shot of nitrous, but nothing major. Are there any other heads that would work with that cam? I was researching and it seems only the 6.0L heads are recommended for a lift like that.
Originally Posted by adamB
Well, I was planning heads and complete exhaust. If I went with 6.0L heads and replaced header back, would it be a good idea. I am in no rush to install the cam, just to go ahead and buy it. I was planning on waiting a month or two before installing it anyway. Because when I do things, I try to do them right. So I am waiting to save the money to reprogram the computer and buy other parts. That cam, 6.0L heads, headers. I am thinking that would be a good setup. My only concern is the power loss from the lower compression with those heads. I am not planning forced induction. Maybe an insurance shot of nitrous, but nothing major. Are there any other heads that would work with that cam? I was researching and it seems only the 6.0L heads are recommended for a lift like that.
Last edited by jrp; Jan 18, 2004 at 06:03 PM.
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There arent any heads that will work well with that cam because from a Piston/Valve clearance issue, it's likely to hit in a stock scenario. In any case with aftermarket heads, any milling at all would even worsen the situation. Thats a lousy cam for what you want to do, and its not worth buying it to find that out.
That cam is for notched pistons in a race-only engine. It will take some pretty drastic programming to make it even drivable at lower RPMs if it will "idle" at all. I have a significantly smaller cam in a 387.
That cam is for notched pistons in a race-only engine. It will take some pretty drastic programming to make it even drivable at lower RPMs if it will "idle" at all. I have a significantly smaller cam in a 387.
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From: Working in the shop 24/7
Originally Posted by adamB
Well, I was planning heads and complete exhaust. If I went with 6.0L heads and replaced header back, would it be a good idea. I am in no rush to install the cam, just to go ahead and buy it. I was planning on waiting a month or two before installing it anyway. Because when I do things, I try to do them right. So I am waiting to save the money to reprogram the computer and buy other parts. That cam, 6.0L heads, headers. I am thinking that would be a good setup. My only concern is the power loss from the lower compression with those heads. I am not planning forced induction. Maybe an insurance shot of nitrous, but nothing major. Are there any other heads that would work with that cam? I was researching and it seems only the 6.0L heads are recommended for a lift like that.
Spend the time to find a cylinder head that fits the requirements.
Then get the periphers like an intake and the correct exhaust system..
LAST thing on the list should be a camshaft...It's role is based on everything else that I mentioned above.
Ideally it should be designed around your parameters and power level. That's why I prefer to pick the specs by application, but there are a few people that pick "shelf" cams with success...
All up to you what you want to do but in my opinion, the camshaft should be last on your list...
Ed
M6
Thanks for the input. I have really thought against the cam, but it is a good price and it worked well in his car. Granted, he did a lot more than I am gonna do. Sometimes people **** me off and I go overboard, lose my head, and try to build too fast. Thanks for talking sense back into me.
Thanks for the input. I have really thought against the cam, but it is a good price and it worked well in his car. Granted, he did a lot more than I am gonna do. Sometimes people **** me off and I go overboard, lose my head, and try to build too fast. Thanks for talking sense back into me.
. 
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,695
Likes: 9
From: Raleigh, NC
Originally Posted by Visceral
There arent any heads that will work well with that cam because from a Piston/Valve clearance issue, it's likely to hit in a stock scenario. In any case with aftermarket heads, any milling at all would even worsen the situation. Thats a lousy cam for what you want to do, and its not worth buying it to find that out.
That cam is for notched pistons in a race-only engine. It will take some pretty drastic programming to make it even drivable at lower RPMs if it will "idle" at all. I have a significantly smaller cam in a 387.
That cam is for notched pistons in a race-only engine. It will take some pretty drastic programming to make it even drivable at lower RPMs if it will "idle" at all. I have a significantly smaller cam in a 387.
Listen to this guy.
And yes, any good ported LS1, LS6, or 5.3 head will work fine...Skip the 6Ls unless you need to lower the CR....Take some time and do lots of research on this site.
Originally Posted by Mike98WS6
I would stay away from the "big" cam. It will be nothing but trouble for ur set up.
237/239 sounds more like a stroker/big bore cam than a 346 cam. Many 382/383 LS1's have smaller cams. You don't want that cam as first cam.
LPE GT2-3 is a nice first cam than can make power - I found one new in the box in the parts for sale for $210 dollars.
TR 224 are excellent cams for stock heads and work every well with ported heads too. Used ~$225 to $300
224 XE-R's are excellent cams too, with the .581 lift, I like dual springs and ported heads but many have used this cam with 918's on stock heads with good results. This appear often as used cams in the ~$250 range used.
You can find a much more suitable cam for about the same price...don't rush.
Also EDC makes an excellent point match the cam to the heads not the heads to the cam. A custom cam is best in most applications. I don't like lope. A friend of mine that's a professional engine builder (done many LS1's) suggested a custom 224 XE-R on a 113. I like it much better than 224 XE-R's on a 112. It was tailored to my application. Warm has a nice idle and my wifes 02 Z28 with found cat-back will drown my 224 XE-R out.
