Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

7100 redline w/ stock LS6?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-13-2010, 01:43 PM
  #21  
LSX Mechanic
iTrader: (89)
 
Damian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 10,389
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes on 7 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by KurtRardin
Quick question: Is it dangerous to upgrade the rod bolts in an engine that's already got mile on it? I feel like disturbing the bearings would be risky, but I've never worked on the bottom end of an engine.
Depends on how many miles, but you should be fine. I've done a set of bolts on a 99 engine with 125K on it and had no ill issues. Rev's to 7K on the daily according to the owner of that car.
Old 07-14-2010, 01:37 PM
  #22  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (3)
 
Cheatin' Chad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: IL
Posts: 2,561
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Don't forget pushrods... The stockers aren't that stout.
Old 11-26-2011, 12:22 AM
  #23  
Teching In
 
asinapple8805's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but I'm doing some research on mild higher rpm builds. I'm looking for a build that will get me to 7000 safely all day. This is the information I've gathered so far from the discussion:

stronger pushrods (Chromoly) - to handle the repeated abuse
high tensile strength rod bolts - to handle the increased forces during piston directional speed changes
high rate springs (preferrably single) - to decrease valve float at higher RPMs

Someone mentioned PAC 1518 springs. Can anyone else recommend other good low lift high RPM valve springs?

My goal is to set the limiter to maybe 7000, and shift at around 6800, but I'd like piece of mind in case i'm ever forced to bounce off the limiter for more than a second.



Quick Reply: 7100 redline w/ stock LS6?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:50 AM.