LS1 Carnage and 408 build up - UPDATE w/dyno sheet & video!
07-18-2010, 01:45 AM
#25
^ I've noticed quite a few of these recently. I don't know what about these cars that tends to make them inhale water, but I don't like it. Perhaps with age something is failing. Mine was just sitting for a few days. I never even started it. By some divine miracle it managed to inhale enough water to destroy my engine. I think the water in mine came through a torn PCV hose that flowed completely down hill right into the intake on the passenger side where it blew out.
07-19-2010, 08:09 AM
#26
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You can call me a u-boat commander because I drove straight into the high water, so nothing strange about that, aside from the fact I didn't know how deep it was.
Took all day yesterday, but finally got the engine seated. I worked on it by myself in the morning trying to get it in, but the hoist was hitting the front bumper and I still had 5-6 inches to go. So I yanked it back out, reset the chains and the motor was only 3 inches from the transmission, but the *** end was hanging too low to line up with the input shaft of the transmission. So, I yanked it AGAIN and keep in mind, I am working under a carport with the *** end of the hoist hanging in the open environment and it was raining yesterday. So I had to take some breaks before I could pull and reset the chains due to rain.
Finally, I said F it, yanked the front bumper, styrofoam support, and the plastic cowl, set the engine with only a little reward tilt and 2 hours later, the input was through the clutch. Took another hour to get it lined up with the pilot bearing. Didn't want to pull the engine onto the trans with bolts in fear of crushing the pilot, so we fiddled around and it finally seated. Took another 2 hours to get the bellhousing bolts into the block and the motor mounts back on. I had put them on first thing yesterday morning, but they kept interfering with the pedestals. It was a bitch to put those on because the transmission and engine couldn't go any higher because of the trans tunnel. The bottom two bolts on both sides kept hitting the bottom of the pedestals.
Either way, put the hood back on and called it a night! From our last attempt, it took about 5 hours to set the engine in place. Next time, I will just pull the transmission with it. Another part that was a bitch going in was the fact that I had the oil pan bolted up. HKE had set the pickup height and I would of rather fought the oil pan and k member than chance jacking up the clearance with the pickup tube.
MFer I am sore...
Took all day yesterday, but finally got the engine seated. I worked on it by myself in the morning trying to get it in, but the hoist was hitting the front bumper and I still had 5-6 inches to go. So I yanked it back out, reset the chains and the motor was only 3 inches from the transmission, but the *** end was hanging too low to line up with the input shaft of the transmission. So, I yanked it AGAIN and keep in mind, I am working under a carport with the *** end of the hoist hanging in the open environment and it was raining yesterday. So I had to take some breaks before I could pull and reset the chains due to rain.
Finally, I said F it, yanked the front bumper, styrofoam support, and the plastic cowl, set the engine with only a little reward tilt and 2 hours later, the input was through the clutch. Took another hour to get it lined up with the pilot bearing. Didn't want to pull the engine onto the trans with bolts in fear of crushing the pilot, so we fiddled around and it finally seated. Took another 2 hours to get the bellhousing bolts into the block and the motor mounts back on. I had put them on first thing yesterday morning, but they kept interfering with the pedestals. It was a bitch to put those on because the transmission and engine couldn't go any higher because of the trans tunnel. The bottom two bolts on both sides kept hitting the bottom of the pedestals.
Either way, put the hood back on and called it a night! From our last attempt, it took about 5 hours to set the engine in place. Next time, I will just pull the transmission with it. Another part that was a bitch going in was the fact that I had the oil pan bolted up. HKE had set the pickup height and I would of rather fought the oil pan and k member than chance jacking up the clearance with the pickup tube.
MFer I am sore...
07-20-2010, 09:13 AM
#28
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I know it can be easier, I have dropped the engine/trans out of my old mustang like that twice, but that was on a lift. The top was easy, just need to bring the trans with it next time.
07-21-2010, 07:32 AM
#30
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I talked to the engine builder, he recommended TR6, which I put in last night and fired it up!!!
Sounds MUCH tamer than the 346 with the MS4. I attempted to get a video, but I had so much trouble getting it started due to the fact of the dead battery. Then once I did get it started, I had to top off coolant, verify no leaks, make sure the smoke burning off was residual oils and stuff from my hands, not fresh oil dripping somewhere.
Nonetheless, she is alive and I will have some video up later this afternoon. Actually idles quite well on it's own, kind of surprised at how well it does. I could probably drive it around until I get the tune. Tuner said I could probably drive it a little bit pre-tune, but I was figuring with the higher compression and displacement, that it would run like total crap, idles on its own just fine. It also finds the idle relatively easy for an un-tuned car.
Sounds MUCH tamer than the 346 with the MS4. I attempted to get a video, but I had so much trouble getting it started due to the fact of the dead battery. Then once I did get it started, I had to top off coolant, verify no leaks, make sure the smoke burning off was residual oils and stuff from my hands, not fresh oil dripping somewhere.
Nonetheless, she is alive and I will have some video up later this afternoon. Actually idles quite well on it's own, kind of surprised at how well it does. I could probably drive it around until I get the tune. Tuner said I could probably drive it a little bit pre-tune, but I was figuring with the higher compression and displacement, that it would run like total crap, idles on its own just fine. It also finds the idle relatively easy for an un-tuned car.
07-21-2010, 07:42 AM
#31
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Also, I attempted (3) methods to measure p-rod length. #1 was the set to zero lash and count the turns. That method has so many ways to F it up, I did that like 6 or 7 different times and the first few times, I came up with like 7.300. It is also hard to do if you don't realize you are compressing the lifter. I also used the adjustable p-rod and set it up, and at first it came with 7.325, which I was still thinking way too small, so I got it around 7.350 and checked the wipe, and it was high. Tested this again with 7.375 and 7.400 and 7.400 looked pretty good. Since I had some 7.425 laying around with about 200 miles on them, I threw them in there for the heck of it, and perfect! You could not get a better wipe with a non adjustable rocker! So after I realized it had the best wipe, I set it to zero lash, making sure the lifter was not compressing, counted the turns and I got between 1.25-1.50 turns, meaning, around 0.059-0.071 preload. Probably closer to 0.065.
When I first fired it up, it was ticking so loud, you would of thought someone was hammering a ball peen hammer on the water pump pulley rapidly. Shut it down and topped off the coolant and let it sit for a minute. Checked a few known trouble spots for leaks, kept topping off coolant, and fired it up again. This time, it started with the loud tick, but within about 60 seconds it was reduced to a little louder than my old "norm."
When I first fired it up, it was ticking so loud, you would of thought someone was hammering a ball peen hammer on the water pump pulley rapidly. Shut it down and topped off the coolant and let it sit for a minute. Checked a few known trouble spots for leaks, kept topping off coolant, and fired it up again. This time, it started with the loud tick, but within about 60 seconds it was reduced to a little louder than my old "norm."
07-21-2010, 03:39 PM
#32
It will idle way tamer. You can increase your total overlap by around 8* for every 50 cubic inches you go up in displacement and maintain the same idle quality. By going up 62 cubic inches and using the same cam you are in effect removing 9.92 degrees of overlap from your camshaft. You're current camshaft in the 408 is basically running like something in the range of a 228/232 111lsa on a stock cubic inched application. That's all cut down a little bit, but passes along the general idea.
07-22-2010, 07:42 AM
#33
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I would have a video for ya'll, but she wouldn't fire last night! When I got home, I disconnected the AIR pump because I had the front bumper off and it hasn't been hooked up as long as I have had the car. I then proceed to top it off with more coolant and put the front bumper back on. I then go to fire it up and it spins, but does not start. I end up checking fuel, and it has pressure at the rail, assuming the injectors are working. I then pull a plug and it looks good, considering it has only been ran for 20-30 minutes. I lay it on the valve cover for ground and have my gf turn it over. Nothing, no spark. Then I grab some alligator clips to ensure a good ground for the spark plug and attempt it again. Nothing, no spark. So I go back and check all ground and connections. Everything is good and tight.
Then I remember that the lip on the housing of the connector on crank position sensor was broken off in about a 1/4" section. So for ***** and giggles, I run to the parts store and get (2) new plugs and a new crank position sensor. It was getting late and I was getting tired. I tried the new spark plug with laying it on the valve cover and still get no spark. I was too tired to try and replace the crank position sensor, so I will attempt that this afternoon.
The only thing I can think of is the clusterfuck of wiring behind the intake or the crank or cam position sensor. That would be the only thing allowing ALL plugs not to fire. I assume that none are firing as when it turns over, I don't hear anything that sounds like it is about the run.
What do you guys think?
Then I remember that the lip on the housing of the connector on crank position sensor was broken off in about a 1/4" section. So for ***** and giggles, I run to the parts store and get (2) new plugs and a new crank position sensor. It was getting late and I was getting tired. I tried the new spark plug with laying it on the valve cover and still get no spark. I was too tired to try and replace the crank position sensor, so I will attempt that this afternoon.
The only thing I can think of is the clusterfuck of wiring behind the intake or the crank or cam position sensor. That would be the only thing allowing ALL plugs not to fire. I assume that none are firing as when it turns over, I don't hear anything that sounds like it is about the run.
What do you guys think?
07-22-2010, 03:24 PM
#34
This may be random, but if the oil level sending unit isn't plugged in the car with have a no start condition. I'd simply check that and then proceed to change out your new crank sensor. This may also sound dumb, but make sure you haven't swapped the cam and crank sensors. I've seen someone do that one before.
07-22-2010, 03:32 PM
#35
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We can mark those as done! I went over all of those little connections on the passenger side last night, the oil level sensor, crankshaft position sensor, engine ground, front O2, starter, small gauge starter wire. I know they are plugged in, not sure if they are good, but I know they are plugged in, haha.
07-22-2010, 08:19 PM
#37
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Thanks man. It ended up being the stupid crankshaft position sensor. Either way, here is a crappy video with an old camera. I may have a new/better one up later with a newer camera. Maybe something that can handle the extreme decibels. Also, here are some pictures I never got to up load.
07-23-2010, 07:33 AM
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Any recommendations on a quality filter that is not a K&N or Mobil 1?
