Ticking sound, post cam swap, after warm up
07-25-2010, 09:43 AM
#21
With regards to my car, I did nothing to the valves. The springs were installed without incident, PRC double springs, new exhaust style valve seals all around.
Like I said in my post, my only mistake was with the pushrods, I was recommended to get longer pushrods from stock thinking smaller base cam circle etc. Turned out I needed less pushrod. 3-4 years ago, I don't recall anyone mentioning the whole intake open/exhaust close method like the old SBC for LS1's if anything people were just telling me tighten to 22 ft/lb, rotate engine, check torque and be done. On the old sbc's I'd tighten as the car was running. Miss those old days of my other car.
Like I said in my post, my only mistake was with the pushrods, I was recommended to get longer pushrods from stock thinking smaller base cam circle etc. Turned out I needed less pushrod. 3-4 years ago, I don't recall anyone mentioning the whole intake open/exhaust close method like the old SBC for LS1's if anything people were just telling me tighten to 22 ft/lb, rotate engine, check torque and be done. On the old sbc's I'd tighten as the car was running. Miss those old days of my other car.
07-25-2010, 09:50 AM
#22
11 Second Club
sounds like you really need to check your pushrod length again. i just put new heads on plus new ls7 lifters, and trunion upgrade. with the ls7 lifters i set my preload to about .080 and i have absolutly no valvetrain noise warm or cold now....check the preload with a pushrod length checker
07-26-2010, 06:38 AM
#26
I'm surprised the lifters survived all the abuse for 3 years worth of daily driving and track runs and can still be quiet after all these years.
I've had heads in the works for the past 2 years, but budget constraints from returning to school, new house and **** load of "life" kinda put a damper on working on the car.
These engines simply are incredible in design. 132k miles..., cam back at the 80k mile mark 52k of improper pre-load, 200+ track runs and a whole **** load of daily driving...
I've had heads in the works for the past 2 years, but budget constraints from returning to school, new house and **** load of "life" kinda put a damper on working on the car.
These engines simply are incredible in design. 132k miles..., cam back at the 80k mile mark 52k of improper pre-load, 200+ track runs and a whole **** load of daily driving...
07-29-2010, 04:11 AM
#27
Anything above idle I get a good bit of ticking as well. Using PRC 5.3L stage 2 heads with the PRC Duals w/ 7.400" push rods on a 228 588 114 cam. Stock lifters and rockers. Should I look into after market rockers? (guessing yes) And with that would adjustable really be necessary? Oil pressure is a steady 40PSI as idle and about 60 cruising around. I did not "soak" the lifters as I was swapping them from the 243 heads over to the PRC's. They did not sit out at all just straight from the old to new.
Pretty much just want to know if I should go adjustable or not?
Pretty much just want to know if I should go adjustable or not?
Last edited by Exidous; 07-31-2010 at 09:45 PM.
12-13-2010, 11:28 AM
#29
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I've had a "tick" in my car for the past 3 years which I officially fixed yesterday with proper length pushrods.
-it wasn't rod knock, sound was off the top of the valvetrain, would not increase in intensity with rpm as severely as rod knock would
-it'd only appear after driving with consistent rpm for a good duration of time ie highway driving 2k rpm, or after a 1/4 mile run
-moderately aggressive driving which you "blip" the rpm a good amount to keep the pressure up would make the sound go away
-letting it sit and idle for a longer time ie 5 min(longer than a stoplight) could quiet it, or shutting it off, letting it "cool" then restarting could stop it
-sound could be pinpointed to a particular side of the engine, back, front, driver or passenger
-best description of sound was like "a valve closing way to quick or hard"
-can vary in intensity from "slap" to I can't have a conversation in the car loudness
What it came down to for me was incorrect pre-load on the valvetrain. I had like 2 full turns for each rocker meaning I had like 0.097 pre-load which was way too much. 7.400 pushrods -> 7.375 length 1.5 turns
When I first installed the cam, I didn't know any better and incorrectly installed the rockers not using the intake close, exhaust open method so my impression of "valvetrain" slap led me to guess I needed more pushrod. Initially when I installed the new pushrods, it was quiet on startup, and only once in awhile (or 1/4 mile) would the tick come. In recent months, it was fairly consistent on long drives and now got to the point that a 30 min drive could reproduce the sound. I recently changed out rocker arms to try to quiet it up, which didn't change a thing.
I drove all day yesterday after installing the pushrods and could not get the sound to come back. The full roller rockers + proper length pushrods have made my valvetrain so quiet now. On start up, there is hints of the old tick, but once warmed up, the valvetrain is quiet. Complete opposite of before. Cold quiet, warm tick.
-it wasn't rod knock, sound was off the top of the valvetrain, would not increase in intensity with rpm as severely as rod knock would
-it'd only appear after driving with consistent rpm for a good duration of time ie highway driving 2k rpm, or after a 1/4 mile run
-moderately aggressive driving which you "blip" the rpm a good amount to keep the pressure up would make the sound go away
-letting it sit and idle for a longer time ie 5 min(longer than a stoplight) could quiet it, or shutting it off, letting it "cool" then restarting could stop it
-sound could be pinpointed to a particular side of the engine, back, front, driver or passenger
-best description of sound was like "a valve closing way to quick or hard"
-can vary in intensity from "slap" to I can't have a conversation in the car loudness
What it came down to for me was incorrect pre-load on the valvetrain. I had like 2 full turns for each rocker meaning I had like 0.097 pre-load which was way too much. 7.400 pushrods -> 7.375 length 1.5 turns
When I first installed the cam, I didn't know any better and incorrectly installed the rockers not using the intake close, exhaust open method so my impression of "valvetrain" slap led me to guess I needed more pushrod. Initially when I installed the new pushrods, it was quiet on startup, and only once in awhile (or 1/4 mile) would the tick come. In recent months, it was fairly consistent on long drives and now got to the point that a 30 min drive could reproduce the sound. I recently changed out rocker arms to try to quiet it up, which didn't change a thing.
I drove all day yesterday after installing the pushrods and could not get the sound to come back. The full roller rockers + proper length pushrods have made my valvetrain so quiet now. On start up, there is hints of the old tick, but once warmed up, the valvetrain is quiet. Complete opposite of before. Cold quiet, warm tick.
I'm guessing the new cam will have a 20 thou smaller base circle.
