how to break in new engine?
how to break in new engine? hey, im getting a new motor built for my car, but how do i go about breaking this thing in? i doubt it will run, since im running bigger injectors now and a stroker. do i have to get a tune just to break it in, and then go back for the final tune?
They did a base tune on my motors so i could break them in,then went back around 500mi for the final job. my last two motors the first 100mi of street driving i was nice to it.not going over 3,500rpm's. The next 100mi i started going up tp 4,000 and the next 100 hitting 5,000rpm's a few times. then around 400mi i took it to the rev a few times. By 500mi i went to the track. Keep it off the highway for the first 100mi or so. if you do go on the highway don't keep the rpm's at one speed for too long,speed up,slow down and maybe down shift here and there. My last two motors were strong and used very little oil,maybe 1/2qt every oil change. ALSO,don't run synthic oil for the first 3,000mi,they say it's not goos even know vetts come with it from factory. I don't see the point in smashing on a freas motor too soon. Your trying to seat the rings during break in,a good seal is a good motor.
Last edited by mike c.; Jul 31, 2010 at 02:57 PM.
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Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Roseville, Ca.
I agree with Mike. First start, get the oil to operating temps while running steady @ 2000 rpm's then shut it off. Change your oil and walk away until it's completely cold to heat cycle your springs. Then do as mike says. I changed my oil twice before 500 miles.
You're probably gonna get 100 different opinions on this, but I agree with progressive loading, then drive it like you stole it. Others say to do hard accel/decel loading to seat the rings right away. It may be better, but it's kind of like ***-raping your girl on the first date... just doesn't seem right.
You're probably gonna get 100 different opinions on this, but I agree with progressive loading, then drive it like you stole it. Others say to do hard accel/decel loading to seat the rings right away. It may be better, but it's kind of like ***-raping your girl on the first date... just doesn't seem right.
HAHA on the *** raping analogy
Make sure the oil is warm and the tune is safe and then go ahead and *** rape it to seat the rings. I haven't broken in a new motor in over ten years but that worked well for me ten years ago. That motor is still alive though not in my driveway any more...
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Make sure the oil is warm and the tune is safe and then go ahead and *** rape it to seat the rings. I haven't broken in a new motor in over ten years but that worked well for me ten years ago. That motor is still alive though not in my driveway any more...http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Last edited by SOMbitch; Jul 31, 2010 at 05:49 PM.
I give my motor a few heat cycles for about 30 min each a few times then I give them hell. I usually go wot about 50 miles on it. With each heat cycle being 15 or twenty miles each
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I agree with SOMbitch you don't have to brake in a ls1 engine with hydraulic lifters that was old school using solid lifters!! Like my tuner said do you think nascar brakes in there engines!! but go and get a base tune then give it heat cycles (turn the engine on let it reach operating temperature turn it off let it cool down completely and repeat 3 times it will be plenty) That helps valve springs and rings to seat!! then dyno that bitch!!
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okay, sounds like ill just be able to bring it straight to the dyno for my breakin/final tune with no breakin in miles. but im doing a new clutch(spec 3), which requires 500 easy miles right?
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i was advised by weber race engines to use good mineral oil, and get the engine warm/check for leaks etc for 5 mins max before driving off, without letting it idle at too low revs. then take it for a drive for 20mins, up and down the revs without bogging it down and not taking it too easy, but obviously not straight to full rpm.
i went around a disused airfield so i could work it up and down the gears quite hard, without sticking too long at one rpm point. a bit of steady acceleration and the odd decent hard pull, and letting it off throttle with some engine braking.
after 20mins switch off, let it cool down fully to heat cycle it all, then change the oil and filter, again for non synthetic mineral oil.
after that initial break in the engine got worked to full rpm on its very next outing, and was given quite a hard run, probably less than 100miles on the clock at this point, 6000rpm and full throttle acceleration for about 40mins.
the engine uses no oil and sounds sweet as a nut, and has since done about 400 track miles of very hard use. still on mineral oil (changed again). was advised to avoid synth for first 1k miles.
i went around a disused airfield so i could work it up and down the gears quite hard, without sticking too long at one rpm point. a bit of steady acceleration and the odd decent hard pull, and letting it off throttle with some engine braking.
after 20mins switch off, let it cool down fully to heat cycle it all, then change the oil and filter, again for non synthetic mineral oil.
after that initial break in the engine got worked to full rpm on its very next outing, and was given quite a hard run, probably less than 100miles on the clock at this point, 6000rpm and full throttle acceleration for about 40mins.
the engine uses no oil and sounds sweet as a nut, and has since done about 400 track miles of very hard use. still on mineral oil (changed again). was advised to avoid synth for first 1k miles.
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From: Auckland, Nth Is, New Zealand.
Was trying to figure a way to reply to chris-m as he had made the remark about what his engine guy had said.
Last one I did started it ran for bout 15 to check for leaks then took it to the dyno then took it to the track haven't had any issue with the engine (tranny is another story). Just two cents for what its worth.
