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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 08:18 AM
  #21  
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Well since you yanked it, def take your time and do everything.
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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 08:21 AM
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Yea im in no rush and it only took about an hour to pull once the trans was off
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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 09:37 AM
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Yea, its not too bad, just a rats nest which sucks but since this will be a fresh rebuilt its a good time to inspect everything. You may even want to strip down and set up for a complete clean.

If mine ever came out it be a 400+ LS2 short block going in or at the VERY least a 383 build using the stocker short block.
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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackScreaminMachine
Yea, its not too bad, just a rats nest which sucks but since this will be a fresh rebuilt its a good time to inspect everything. You may even want to strip down and set up for a complete clean.

If mine ever came out it be a 400+ LS2 short block going in or at the VERY least a 383 build using the stocker short block.
Haha well its funny you should mention that because I plan on putting either a procharged 408 in it or the gm 454 lsx long block in it. I just dont have ten grand to spend on a motor right now but next winter/spring is when I plan on doing all that
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Old Aug 10, 2010 | 07:21 AM
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Any of you guys know if I can slide the motor back in with the heads on? My friend that works at a chevy dealership said that theirs not enough room for it to clear because of the cowl in front of the windshield.
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Old Aug 10, 2010 | 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by jetaws6
Any of you guys know if I can slide the motor back in with the heads on? My friend that works at a chevy dealership said that theirs not enough room for it to clear because of the cowl in front of the windshield.
Yes you can.

The issue is with your friend that any 4th Gen Fbody you need a crank to pitch and balance the motor. Recent I helped take out a motor but the contraption that I used lengthened over all distance from the hook of the engine hoist to the actual motor and the lift we had used required the nose to be out the farthest to clear the front clip.

We got it where the oil pan was slightly rubbing the radiator support and we maxed out the Hyd. Ram and we had to manually lift the motor so we would not scratch the bumper support.

Since then a buddy of ours took a valley cover plate, drilled from front to back holes through the Knock Sensor area, flipped it over, and bolted it to the motor. Using a threaded rod, washers and nuts we made the same thing but we did not have as much drop and the engine cleared easy.
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Old Aug 10, 2010 | 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackScreaminMachine
Yes you can.

The issue is with your friend that any 4th Gen Fbody you need a crank to pitch and balance the motor.
Im going to have to balence the motor when I put it back in did I read that correctly?
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Old Aug 10, 2010 | 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by jetaws6
Im going to have to balence the motor when I put it back in did I read that correctly?
Generally yes.

I do have a pic of my OLD LT1 car which we used a chain and a block of wood. You get the idea.

http://www.worldisround.com/articles/15574/index.html (Don't mind the notes, it was created 7 years ago and I have learned so much more BUT you will see in the pics how I did it.)

Also to mention IF pulling that motor OR ANY, Having a motor plate made either that uses the intake manifold bolts (LT1) or the valley cover plate is ideal.

IF the heads are removed, you gotta find other bolt holes in most cases you would be using the motor mounts or a avalible hole.
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Old Aug 10, 2010 | 10:16 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by BlackScreaminMachine
Generally yes.

I do have a pic of my OLD LT1 car which we used a chain and a block of wood. You get the idea.

http://www.worldisround.com/articles/15574/index.html (Don't mind the notes, it was created 7 years ago and I have learned so much more BUT you will see in the pics how I did it.)

Also to mention IF pulling that motor OR ANY, Having a motor plate made either that uses the intake manifold bolts (LT1) or the valley cover plate is ideal.

IF the heads are removed, you gotta find other bolt holes in most cases you would be using the motor mounts or a avalible hole.
Your just saying that you have to balance it when your putting it in not with any special to tool or anything right?
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Old Aug 10, 2010 | 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by jetaws6
Your just saying that you have to balance it when your putting it in not with any special to tool or anything right?
Having a tool to balance the bias from front to back is OPTIMAL. IF you had no tool handy.

The link I provided is what I did 7 years ago and this was my first motor pull ever. I did have to slide it forward then reconnect the chain to the heads and using the block of wood to space it out and then with help got it out.

With the LS1's you can use the valley cover plate, or some people make motor plates which really helps in ease of removing.

Because of the length of the front bumper and the motor going half under the cowl, it does make things interesting but in the end with some enginuity and some common sense, removing motors from the top is not all that hard.
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Old Aug 10, 2010 | 04:37 PM
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what clutch are you gonna put in there. and maybe you should upgrade your master cylinder while your in there or at least do the drill mod.
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Old Aug 11, 2010 | 07:16 AM
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Monster stage three. I found a turbo kit for you southpaw
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