High mile blocks have problems?
High mile blocks have problems? Most people have told me a block should not be bought over 50k miles. What happens to a block with 100,000 miles especially on a ls1 block. Do you need to replace the mains? I'm guessing the bearings needs to be replaced and it'll need a hone but what else happens?
Thanks,
Ben
Thanks,
Ben
Nothing that I know of honestly. My block has 150k miles on it & I"ll be re-using it without a second thought. Hell my cylinders still had factory cross-hatchings in them at 103k miles when we did my H/C swap.
I'm not sure I'd listen to anyone tellin you not to buy a bare block just based on mileage. Only thing I'd worry about is if it's been previously bored/honed or had any damage from internals failing. Otherwise I cant think of any reason the mileage would matter.
I'm not sure I'd listen to anyone tellin you not to buy a bare block just based on mileage. Only thing I'd worry about is if it's been previously bored/honed or had any damage from internals failing. Otherwise I cant think of any reason the mileage would matter.
As long as you go through the block it should be fine. Have the block line honed and bores checked and honed as well as deck surfaces to ensure they are square. Replace bearings and main studs and you should be good. I assume if you are getting new pistons, you are putting new rings in as well. Let us know if you have any other questions!
Thanks!
Jon
Thanks!
Jon
My 130k+ mile LQ9 block looked brand new when I tore it down. My machinist said that the bores only measured 1.5 thousands over stock, and a simple hone was all the block needed.
Agreed, that milage generally as one factor should not determine what you buy. Condition and matience is as important.
Blocks should ALWAYS be sent to a qualified machine shop to check for tolerences and if there had been any core shift, stress cracks and what not.
A good clean up, be it on the mains or cyl will ensure the motor will live for many miles to come.
I always use ARP fastners and if I recall the main caps are quiet reuseable. IMO if I tore apart a LS1 block, better parts would be going in, at least a 383, bearings and rings are always replaced and I tend to forge the motor so the rotating assembly is all new, balanced.
I tend not to re use stock rotating assemblies UNLESS I put the majority of milage and knew the motor. Summit and most other places sell stock guts too if you want to go budget (the car often does not need replacing)
Blocks should ALWAYS be sent to a qualified machine shop to check for tolerences and if there had been any core shift, stress cracks and what not.
A good clean up, be it on the mains or cyl will ensure the motor will live for many miles to come.
I always use ARP fastners and if I recall the main caps are quiet reuseable. IMO if I tore apart a LS1 block, better parts would be going in, at least a 383, bearings and rings are always replaced and I tend to forge the motor so the rotating assembly is all new, balanced.
I tend not to re use stock rotating assemblies UNLESS I put the majority of milage and knew the motor. Summit and most other places sell stock guts too if you want to go budget (the car often does not need replacing)
EVERY Gen 3 and Gen 4 engine I've taken apart has looked amazing inside, including some very high mileage (both iron and aluminum blocks too). I've only torn one down that had damage, due to a mechanical over-rev (someone missed 5th and found 3rd after getting to the top of 4th), and never seen any with really any significant problematic wear in them...in fact, I can't wait to put heads/cam on my 200K+ mile Camaro...without touching the rings or bearings...it's got great compression, great oil pressure, and the magnet on the drain plug is always clean...why mess with it?
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Just tore mine apart @ 100k and i too had factory cross hatch in the bores. and its had a HARD life,the LS engine have pretty much become the go to block so to speak, mine is now at the machine shop and going to be a forged 383, machinist said its like a new block on the inside.
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