stock rockers with trunnion upgrade vs. yella terra, halrand, etc.
#22
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So if you consider all the tolerances involved and combination of parts, having to alter the pivot point height of the rocker to adjust it to a given combination is a requirement. With a stud mounted rocker, the height adjustment is made with either the poly-lock or the pushrod length with the end goal being the same. In my opinion it is all part of setting up the parts combination correctly no matter what rockers are used, including stock.
#23
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wow, so in reality there is alot more then just getting a different set of rockers. if you change one then you have to change it all. but if you dont have the right tools to take the proper measurements then you wont really know if its off either. unless you take it to an engine builder who knows what they are doing to get the right setup, but 90% of the average diy backyard mechanic who likes to work on their cars wont check things like this. they are all simplicity, slap it together, torque it down, and go.
#24
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Actually, a lot of the tools are relatively inexpensive. Check springs are a few bucks. I used different washers for shims on the initial check then ordered the correct shims. An adjustable pushrod is under $20. A dial indicator is a little more but in a pinch an accurate rule could be used.
#25
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never heard an adjustable pushrod before, alot of these things you're talking about ive never heard of before and sure as **** wouldnt know how to use them besides a dial indicator but at the same time the person using these will have to know the exact tolerances of the of where the springs heights are supposed to be, rocker heights, etc., otherwise they will be taking a shot in the dark. but i guess the manufacturers of the cam's, rockers, springs, pushrods will know the installed height tolerances and the mechanic can adjust them as needed.
#26
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Adjustable pushrod is a simple tool. It comes out of the box at 6.800" in length and then you simply unscrew it to make it longer. Each turn that you unscrew it increases the pushrod length by 0.050". You use it to find out what length pushrod provides zero lash on the rocker with the valve closed, then simply add your lifter preload to get a final pushrod length.
Check springs are very light springs that allow you to open the valves by hand. They are used for making several different measurements and when done the valve springs are re-installed.
Check springs are very light springs that allow you to open the valves by hand. They are used for making several different measurements and when done the valve springs are re-installed.
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the truth of the matter is.. that most people dont bother with proper setup and double check of their aftermarket rockers... its not just a slap it on and set it crank it down to proper torque values...
you have to check the setup height...shim or shave the pedestal if necessary to get the geometry correct.
most of the reason people say to use the stock rockers comes back to that geometry and install height being correct already. no fuss no mess easy to do.
the big boys dont use "stock" rockers... they use pro rockers with proper install
you have to check the setup height...shim or shave the pedestal if necessary to get the geometry correct.
most of the reason people say to use the stock rockers comes back to that geometry and install height being correct already. no fuss no mess easy to do.
the big boys dont use "stock" rockers... they use pro rockers with proper install
I do agree with some of the other posts, the stock rockers are decently light and simple to install. With the trunion upgrade, they are good for the majority on this board, BUT some of you should look at the geometry of a stock rocker on a higher lift cam, tends to wear out valve guides quickly.
#28
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Adjustable pushrod is a simple tool. It comes out of the box at 6.800" in length and then you simply unscrew it to make it longer. Each turn that you unscrew it increases the pushrod length by 0.050". You use it to find out what length pushrod provides zero lash on the rocker with the valve closed, then simply add your lifter preload to get a final pushrod length.
Check springs are very light springs that allow you to open the valves by hand. They are used for making several different measurements and when done the valve springs are re-installed.
Check springs are very light springs that allow you to open the valves by hand. They are used for making several different measurements and when done the valve springs are re-installed.
but let me piece this all together here...with the rocker arms installed to proper torque, the valve should be fully seated afterwards and the pushrod at zero lash with no "pre-load" i guess is the word im looking for, on the lifter meaning that the lifter shouldnt be compressed right....so if it aint, say that the valve isnt fully seated, then the said mechanic would then have to install shims under the rocker arm bearing which consequently would raise the rocker arm up, but then the pushrod would not be long enough and would negate zero lash so thats when the adjustable pushrod would come to use to see exactly how long of a pushrod you would need to get the proper length of a pushrod to get the correct geometry for the valve to be seated and the pushrod and lifter at zero lash right....is there something im missing about the concept of valvetrain geometry?
#29
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With the rocker in place and lifter on the base circle of the cam (valve is closed), the valve can't be partially open unless there is something else wrong. The spring should be holding it closed. Then you use the pushrod to basically measure the distance betweent he pushrod cup in the lifter and the pushrod cup in the rocker with the rocker touching (lightly) the top of the valve stem. This measurement is zero lash. Since the pushrod cup is up, you now would add the lifter preload such that the final pushrod that you buy would depress the lifter cup by a known amount.
However, the pushrod measurement is taken after you set the rocker wipe pattern on the valve stem as any shimming or change in height that you make to the rocker in order to properly set the wipe pattern will then effect the pushrod length because you have raised or lowered the rocker pushrod cup relative to the lifter cup.
So the steps would be:
1. Set rocker height to optimize the wipe pattern. See link: Link
2. Measure for the pushrod length required to obtain the proper lifter preload based on the rocker height that has been set in the first step. See link: Link
However, the pushrod measurement is taken after you set the rocker wipe pattern on the valve stem as any shimming or change in height that you make to the rocker in order to properly set the wipe pattern will then effect the pushrod length because you have raised or lowered the rocker pushrod cup relative to the lifter cup.
So the steps would be:
1. Set rocker height to optimize the wipe pattern. See link: Link
2. Measure for the pushrod length required to obtain the proper lifter preload based on the rocker height that has been set in the first step. See link: Link
Last edited by vettenuts; 08-25-2010 at 04:24 AM.
#30
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holy crap, ok, got it. and thanx vettenuts for the all the info. you are one knowledgeable guy and dont have a problem helping retards like myself. keep it up and thanx again for everything and all the advise. there really ought to be a sticky up on how to properly do what you sent me for people wanting to know how to do it like myself.
#31
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Stock rockers here with trunnion upgrade .615 lift and to this date no issues at all. If it was a TF head or any after market head I would definitely say yes, but if its a 243/799/241/... or any GM casting the lightest rocker with the best geometry is going to be the stock rocker. Oh and she shift at 6800 w/ a 7K redline.
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is this just ls1 rockers? I was planning on running a cam up to 6700 or so with ls3 rockers..
When i did my heads/cam on my old lt1 i went crazy adjusting the rockers, when i got into lsxs i loved that they didnt need to be adjusted (in the traditional sense), but after all the research ive done for my current build Im more and more inclined to have a pro do it.
When i did my heads/cam on my old lt1 i went crazy adjusting the rockers, when i got into lsxs i loved that they didnt need to be adjusted (in the traditional sense), but after all the research ive done for my current build Im more and more inclined to have a pro do it.
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yeah, i guess since its in the gen 3 section that was a dumb way to phrase it.. i guess i meant are the limitations similar with the ls3 rockers (thatll be on ls3 heads), ive heard people do trunion upgrades on ls7 rockers if memory serves...
done threadjacking, just had me interested.
done threadjacking, just had me interested.
#38
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GM upgraded the rockers back around 2003 (may not be exact on date) to eliminate the problem. So the need for the trunnion upgrade will depend on the year of the car. I think the f-body's ceased production prior to the upgrade but the new rocker was put into the later C5 Vettes.
#40
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GM upgraded the rockers back around 2003 (may not be exact on date) to eliminate the problem. So the need for the trunnion upgrade will depend on the year of the car. I think the f-body's ceased production prior to the upgrade but the new rocker was put into the later C5 Vettes.