90% of the time when a stud breaks during torque down is they werent soaked in oil, As your torquing the nut down it build to much friction cuts into head an last pass has no where to go but break.

 

decisions... decisions...

 

Yea, I have a hard time believing they would break with only 65 ft-lbs(or whatever spec it is). If I did get them, I would use ARP's ultra-torque assembly lube, lol.

 

Some **** from ebay will work, and some goes horribly wrong. I purchased these **** studs from ebay and used them. I snapped one of them at the last torque step. Shawn is 100% correct that it is a super pain in the *** to retrieve the broken threads out of the block, and if you cant do it you're FUC%&D . The stud breaks at the last thread in the block. These bolts are junk, and the seller and his wife are the rudest hillbillies i have ever encountered. Reground cams and cheap fasteners are junk. Abad71camaro is the seller on ebay

 

Anybody want to do a strength test on these, i can send the remaining ones to them to get it done. PM me and I will send you a few of these 190,000 lb piles of SH%T

 

just to let every one know he was trying to torque the studs in block to 65lb not he the nuts that hold the head down we did offer him a refund before he started cussing us

 

? the stud shouldn't break even if it was tq to 90-100 lbs. i dont see how it was the other guys fault

 

You run the stud into the block until it stops turning (take a break and think about what stopped it from turning). When the stud runs out of threads, the top thread is what stopped it. Then you put 65 ft/lbs on it. By attempting to torque the stud's threads into the block, you are putting pretty much all of the force into that top thread which, of course, is where it breaks.

That's why studs go in the block finger-tight. When you torque the nut, the body of the stud stretches and that stretch effectively clamps the head down. This way, torquing has nothing to do with the threads (in the block), they are out of the picture...

 

this statement is all wrong.

the load is still all on the threads but now its a Tension load when torquing and not a Tension and torsional load. The axis/torsional load is what stresses to the bolt/threads cause the threads to be the weak point

The studs should bottom out in the holes to gain the max amount of contact with the alum/iron threads. Any point of the studs should be able to take at a min of 75lbs with out damage. a stud should be as strong as a bolt.

I have put over 120 lbs of force on ARP studs to get them out of a iron block use in salt water we added double nuts on the top and twisted it out of the block at a little over 120 lbs the threads in the block came out with the stud.

 

NO I WAS TORQUING THE NUT TO 65FT LBS, The stud was torqued at 5LBS. NO refund was offered, you offered to replace the stud, which after the experience I had, breaking off the stud in the block torquing the NUT to the last torque spec of 65FT lbs, was not very appealing, or logical at all.

I was attempting to communicate this to you before you promptly hung up on me the first, second and third time. Getting this communicated to you and your wife, was impossible, but now you can rest assured that the stud was torqued at 5lbs or 60 inlbs and the stud snapped at 65ft lbs of nut tightening according to my Matco torque wrenches.

Unfortunately I purchased these off of EBAY, and did not immediatly use them. The bad thing about that for me is the fact that I as a buyer have very little recourse in the transaction after 30 or so days. When I did use them, and one of them snapped in the block, getting the broken threads out of the block was an ordeal, that I did not want to go through again, when any of the 30 fasteners could break at any time.

With such a high feedback on the sight, I thought that getting the parts refunded from you, and purchasing the ARP studs (Possibly from you) would be no problem. I was terribly mistaken with that train of thought. Your email stated and I quote "good job genius they are supposed to be torqued at 144 in lbs" . I guess some may consider that good customer service, but not for me.

I guess back to the facts, the stud kit came with no instruction,. stated same tensile strength as the ARP studs, so I used the instructions from the ARP website (assuming the fasteners should be similar) Te studs were lubricated with 30wt oil, and torqued to 60 in lbs and then nuts were in three sequence 22 44 65 snap. I would not recommend these fasteners for the above reasons, from any seller, especially one that jumps to quick and horribly innacurate conclusions.

 

Damn.... I just bought a set...

 

Spend $40 more and get the ARP BOLTS?

 

Mine worked flawlessly!

 

F' it i'm going to order a set.

What's the exact way you guys install them? Just like the ARP studs? I hear you should soak everything in oil first for a few days...what's the reasoning behind that?

 

You may be thinking of lifters. You shouldn't have to soak studs in oil.

 

ebay studs here. Lifted a head a month ago at just under 14 psi. Texas speed 408 and stock l92 heads. non i/c Blow through. @ 7000'+ da

http://www.youtube.com/embed/hSKlEDPmmtY

http://www.youtube.com/embed/W-rDEOKq0qo

http://www.youtube.com/embed/hGK0mi9yjGM

 

Going with ARPs now,Id hate to screw up one of my new Mast Ls3 Heads over a Cheap stud.But i did get alot of use out of the Ebay stuff!!

 

^ lol its probably not the fastener, its the stock l92 heads.