Question about heat cycling valve springs
08-30-2010, 10:17 AM
#1
Question about heat cycling valve springs This may be kind of a dumb question, but I've not been able to find a definate answer on this.
Ok, so I know you need to heat cycle new valve springs before you really rip on the car. My question is this: Is it just the heating and cooling, or is it the heating and cooling combined with the compression of the springs that breaks them in? After having a discussion with a friend about this, neither one of us were really sure. Would it be effective to put the springs in oil and gradually heat them to ~220* and bring them back down using something essentially like a pot and a burner? I only ask because of the time crunch I might be under with getting everything installed and then tuning.
Sorry for what might be a stupid question, don't flame me too bad
Ok, so I know you need to heat cycle new valve springs before you really rip on the car. My question is this: Is it just the heating and cooling, or is it the heating and cooling combined with the compression of the springs that breaks them in? After having a discussion with a friend about this, neither one of us were really sure. Would it be effective to put the springs in oil and gradually heat them to ~220* and bring them back down using something essentially like a pot and a burner? I only ask because of the time crunch I might be under with getting everything installed and then tuning.
Sorry for what might be a stupid question, don't flame me too bad
08-30-2010, 10:45 AM
#2
Allow the motor to heat cycle on it's own. It will provide enough heat to do the process.
NO MATTER what cycling you do, going forward with aftermarket springs. IF POSSIBLE, allow the engine to come to operating temp before putting any siginifgant load on the motor. NO Wide Open Throttle anything until its at temp.
IF work is being done at the shop, they should be telling you to allow the motor to do the work. IF anything putting them in boiling water or a "pot" may heat the springs irregularly as the water is one temp and if they are laying on the surface the actual contact may have more heat. I do not see a benefit.
NO MATTER what cycling you do, going forward with aftermarket springs. IF POSSIBLE, allow the engine to come to operating temp before putting any siginifgant load on the motor. NO Wide Open Throttle anything until its at temp.
IF work is being done at the shop, they should be telling you to allow the motor to do the work. IF anything putting them in boiling water or a "pot" may heat the springs irregularly as the water is one temp and if they are laying on the surface the actual contact may have more heat. I do not see a benefit.
08-30-2010, 04:35 PM
#3
Should have started with "I won't be doing this, but..."
I'm going to be doing all of my own work, and know all about spring break in, getting the car up to temp without going over 2500 then letting it get completely cold again. I was just curious if it was the actual heating of the springs or if it's specifically the combination of the heating, compression, and rebound of the springs all together.
I'm going to be doing all of my own work, and know all about spring break in, getting the car up to temp without going over 2500 then letting it get completely cold again. I was just curious if it was the actual heating of the springs or if it's specifically the combination of the heating, compression, and rebound of the springs all together.
08-30-2010, 05:55 PM
#4
Combo.
IF you could put the spring in a machine and safely compress and decompress, to a degree the spring's temp should rise as there is friction and movement, But not to the degree that the engine coolant will allow.
Springs also are designed with a tensile strength in mind and even if you heat cycled but not moved the spring, cooled sufficently and then tossed them in a motor and immediately revved to the limit, I would willing to wager you will break that spring.
IF you could put the spring in a machine and safely compress and decompress, to a degree the spring's temp should rise as there is friction and movement, But not to the degree that the engine coolant will allow.
Springs also are designed with a tensile strength in mind and even if you heat cycled but not moved the spring, cooled sufficently and then tossed them in a motor and immediately revved to the limit, I would willing to wager you will break that spring.
