arp rod bolt ? on ls1
arp rod bolt ? on ls1 some one is telling me arp rod bolts are junk on ls1 ,and they let go and if you use them only have a mech shop do them. what the hell is the difrence if they being mech shop tq them or i do . info please
Set them in by torquing them a couple times. The distorting bore arguement I'm pretty sure is based off the older sbc rods. Forged PM rods are VERY stiff, and are not easy to distort.
I'd have no second thoughts using them in any of my builds using stock rods. Just set them in a couple times to make sure you're getting as close to the optimum stretch possible w/o using a stretch gauge.
I'd have no second thoughts using them in any of my builds using stock rods. Just set them in a couple times to make sure you're getting as close to the optimum stretch possible w/o using a stretch gauge.
Set them in by torquing them a couple times. The distorting bore arguement I'm pretty sure is based off the older sbc rods. Forged PM rods are VERY stiff, and are not easy to distort.
I'd have no second thoughts using them in any of my builds using stock rods. Just set them in a couple times to make sure you're getting as close to the optimum stretch possible w/o using a stretch gauge.
I'd have no second thoughts using them in any of my builds using stock rods. Just set them in a couple times to make sure you're getting as close to the optimum stretch possible w/o using a stretch gauge.
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 149
Likes: 1
From: Braselton,Ga
I went back looking for the thread were I read this and found that the ARP 2000 rod bolts have been known to change the big end by .002. That they do resize the rods when they use them ,,,,but this person has used them in his personal car without resizing the rods and has turned 7200rpm and has over 10k miles on the rod bolts with no problem so far.
Last edited by incbed; Aug 31, 2010 at 04:25 PM. Reason: change
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Brett Foote You're right, I haven't. So I can't say with 100% certainty that they won't distort. However, forged PM is a very stiff material. Add to that the fracture split cap, which makes it harder to distort the bore, with the downside being resizing is a lot of work. A quick hone would be all you can do economically.
As for incbed^^^ are you sure its not .0003" ?? .003" is 3 thousands, which is more than the rod bearing clearance...
As for incbed^^^ are you sure its not .0003" ?? .003" is 3 thousands, which is more than the rod bearing clearance...
Banned
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 149
Likes: 1
From: Braselton,Ga
I want to change my original responce,,I went back looking for the thread were I read this and found that the ARP 2000 rod bolts have been known to change the big end by .002. That they do resize the rods when they use them ,,,,but this person has used them in his personal car without resizing the rods and has turned 7200rpm and has over 10k miles on the rod bolts with no problem so far.
Last edited by incbed; Aug 31, 2010 at 04:25 PM. Reason: new results
You're right, I haven't. So I can't say with 100% certainty that they won't distort. However, forged PM is a very stiff material. Add to that the fracture split cap, which makes it harder to distort the bore, with the downside being resizing is a lot of work. A quick hone would be all you can do economically.
As for incbed^^^ are you sure its not .0003" ?? .003" is 3 thousands, which is more than the rod bearing clearance...
As for incbed^^^ are you sure its not .0003" ?? .003" is 3 thousands, which is more than the rod bearing clearance...
I've actually measured a few and they typically change enough to need to be resized, but it's not so much the diameter at 12 and 6 o'clock, but the out of round in the housing bore that gets bad.
Not true. You simply hone the rod big end .002" larger to correct the geometry, similar to as if you were honing a cylinder for an oversized piston. You then open up a catalog for your favorite bearing manufacturer, and find the appropriate bearing part number for a stock rod honed .002" larger. I'm pretty sure for a Clevite bearing, you look for part number CH-1776-P.
Do any of you believe on what Katech claims about there bolts being installed and not needing to resize at all , i ask because i want to install new rod bolts with motor in truck but i am stuck , i believe the katechs are very close to the stock weight so that is good , has anyone here used the katech bolts , i have trouble understanding what sets there bolts apart, thanks Eric
Katechs are pricey but worth it. You think a company with a reputation like Katech would lie about a claim like that? They are the same weight and length as stock so as not to put the rod out of round and change the clamp load. I have them, no i didn't measure after install. Yes I take the car to 6400+ EVERYDAY.
Katechs are pricey but worth it. You think a company with a reputation like Katech would lie about a claim like that? They are the same weight and length as stock so as not to put the rod out of round and change the clamp load. I have them, no i didn't measure after install. Yes I take the car to 6400+ EVERYDAY.
If there isn't an increase in clamping load, then what is the point?
I'm not an expert, but from what I understand about fasteners, the clamping load (what keeps the rod together) needs to be greater than the intertial load (what tries to tear the rod apart). If you are trying to turn an engine to a higher RPM, which is increasing that inertial load, wouldn't you want a rod bolt with more clamping load to handle that increase in RPM?
Maybe there actually is an increase in clamp load, but it's less than that of the cheaper ARP's so as not to deform the big end.
I'm not an expert, but from what I understand about fasteners, the clamping load (what keeps the rod together) needs to be greater than the intertial load (what tries to tear the rod apart). If you are trying to turn an engine to a higher RPM, which is increasing that inertial load, wouldn't you want a rod bolt with more clamping load to handle that increase in RPM?
Maybe there actually is an increase in clamp load, but it's less than that of the cheaper ARP's so as not to deform the big end.
If there isn't an increase in clamping load, then what is the point?
I'm not an expert, but from what I understand about fasteners, the clamping load (what keeps the rod together) needs to be greater than the intertial load (what tries to tear the rod apart). If you are trying to turn an engine to a higher RPM, which is increasing that inertial load, wouldn't you want a rod bolt with more clamping load to handle that increase in RPM?
Maybe there actually is an increase in clamp load, but it's less than that of the cheaper ARP's so as not to deform the big end.
I'm not an expert, but from what I understand about fasteners, the clamping load (what keeps the rod together) needs to be greater than the intertial load (what tries to tear the rod apart). If you are trying to turn an engine to a higher RPM, which is increasing that inertial load, wouldn't you want a rod bolt with more clamping load to handle that increase in RPM?
Maybe there actually is an increase in clamp load, but it's less than that of the cheaper ARP's so as not to deform the big end.