Iron vs. Aluminum Block ?
#1
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Aside from the block material & different bore. Are their any other "big" differences?
Also, what is the normally accepted "safe" overbore... 0.060 like most SBC's?
(IE- is it still deep skirt so I can use the same oil pan and all that good stuff)
Also, what is the normally accepted "safe" overbore... 0.060 like most SBC's?
(IE- is it still deep skirt so I can use the same oil pan and all that good stuff)
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No other than the obvious weight, etc. Allthe Ls1 motor components will bolt right on the overblock.
THe general consensus is if your going to bore the iron block .060 you should get the block sonic tested b/c many of the 6 liter motors do not have enuff cylinder wall thickness. That being said most here go with a 4.030 overbore b/c certainly enuff thickness and you can spray the crap out of it or do other forced induction. I would say and bore .040 and less your good to go. The .040 overbore with 4.00 crank gives you 409CID!!
Also, most will agree if you go .060 over you should either stay N/A or not spray more than 100 shot or so!
GOOD LUCK!
THe general consensus is if your going to bore the iron block .060 you should get the block sonic tested b/c many of the 6 liter motors do not have enuff cylinder wall thickness. That being said most here go with a 4.030 overbore b/c certainly enuff thickness and you can spray the crap out of it or do other forced induction. I would say and bore .040 and less your good to go. The .040 overbore with 4.00 crank gives you 409CID!!
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GOOD LUCK!
#3
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Originally Posted by MTI 427 C5 Roadster
Allthe Ls1 motor components will bolt right on the overblock.
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Great...thanks! Is it still 6 bolt main caps as well? (I figured this was just because the aluminum needed it for stability)
I'll probably just get a new block...with a standard 4" bore... Leave room for future rebuilds
I'll probably just get a new block...with a standard 4" bore... Leave room for future rebuilds
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