Any one ran this cam before?
Any one ran this cam before? just curious if anyone has ran this cam before. My engine build is setup for it as far as I can tell. I have it installed and the PTV clearance is good. Upgraded everything that is recommended and balanced the lower end. Comp suggested this cam for my style of driving I will be doing.
Just curious if any one has any history with it.
Comp cam 54-428-11 Grind #XR281HR
Hydraulic Roller Lifter
High RPM street strip
RPM Range 2200-7200
Timing .006
Lobe center angle 112
Intake centerline 110
Valve lash is hydraulic on both
Duration intake 281 ex 283
Duration .050" intake 228 ex 230
valve lift intake 0.571 ex 0.573
lobe lift intake .0336 ex 0.337
Just curious if any one has any history with it.
Comp cam 54-428-11 Grind #XR281HR
Hydraulic Roller Lifter
High RPM street strip
RPM Range 2200-7200
Timing .006
Lobe center angle 112
Intake centerline 110
Valve lash is hydraulic on both
Duration intake 281 ex 283
Duration .050" intake 228 ex 230
valve lift intake 0.571 ex 0.573
lobe lift intake .0336 ex 0.337
i have this cam in my 02 ta. cam only with ported tb and slp lid, stock 241 heads, stock maf it made 391 rwhp and 370 rwtq on a dynojet. great mid range cam. full throttle im shifting at 6200rpm with a 3600 circle d converter.
Then I should make alittle more than that, I have 243 heads with the dual springs. Granatelli 90mm MAF, LS6 intake and TB, plus headers, short lifters and hi-tech pushrods. This will be in a manual 5spd 944 porsche.
How did you tune yours once installed? It says it requires tuning. I am looking at the options.
How did you tune yours once installed? It says it requires tuning. I am looking at the options.
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Then I should make alittle more than that, I have 243 heads with the dual springs. Granatelli 90mm MAF, LS6 intake and TB, plus headers, short lifters and hi-tech pushrods. This will be in a manual 5spd 944 porsche.
How did you tune yours once installed? It says it requires tuning. I am looking at the options.
How did you tune yours once installed? It says it requires tuning. I am looking at the options.
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Verdad Gallardo here is everything ive done so far. comp xr281hr cam, pac 1518 valve springs, ti retainers, comp pushrods, ported and polished tb, slp lid, pacesetter headers and off road y pipe, hooker cat back, circle d 3600 stall, trans cooler and a dyno tune.
so the big difference in my setup is the dual 26921 springs and the 1.72 ultra gold rocker arms. What about intake plenum? is it the ls6 one? I dont have a lid since mine is not in a American car, just a custom cold air setup that I will modify to allow a straighter flow into the TB.
How did you go about tuning you car after the upgrades?
How did you go about tuning you car after the upgrades?
Dual springs might be a lttle over kill with the lift that cam has. Poltergeist has the LS6 intake, his car is an 02' model. All 01' & 02' LS1s came with the LS6 intake BTW. If you have not already bought the rockers and you can save the money and run the stockers. They seem to hold up pretty good. Nothing wrong with the ones you listed, just probably not much benifit.
I am with everyone else, no need spinning that cam to 7000+ rpms. That is not a bad thing though. What rods are you running? If stock, what rod bolts? You really do not want to spin the stock rod bolts past 67-6800 rpms IMO. You will be able to tell more about it when you get it on the dyno. I would guess that cam will probably start falling off around 62-6500 rpm.
As far as your tunning question? What computer setup do you intend to run? Most swaps I see, people use 99' - 02' fbody computers and they tune them with hptuners. If you do not have a computer yet and plan on buying a f-bod computer. Stay away from the 98's. They are a little tougher to get tuned.
Sounds like a nice build you started, should fly!
I am with everyone else, no need spinning that cam to 7000+ rpms. That is not a bad thing though. What rods are you running? If stock, what rod bolts? You really do not want to spin the stock rod bolts past 67-6800 rpms IMO. You will be able to tell more about it when you get it on the dyno. I would guess that cam will probably start falling off around 62-6500 rpm.
As far as your tunning question? What computer setup do you intend to run? Most swaps I see, people use 99' - 02' fbody computers and they tune them with hptuners. If you do not have a computer yet and plan on buying a f-bod computer. Stay away from the 98's. They are a little tougher to get tuned.
Sounds like a nice build you started, should fly!
Last edited by Black 99 Bird; Sep 22, 2010 at 06:01 AM.
The rods I am running is scat H-beams with arp bolts, and forged pistons with full floating pins. I know it sounds like a boost or nitrous engine build, but these are just How I have manage to get the pieces. The block was assembled like that already with zero miles, I did a tear down and a balance to double check it all. The heads I found with the springs in them already, freshly reseated and ready to go.
The only thing I did was buy the cam setup from comp cams and they recommended all the parts that go with the valve train. It is my first true engine build and I figured why no do it right even though it cost a little more. I dont have anyone to help me or walk me through ideas here.
I bought a stand alone harness from Speartech and a ecu from them. He went through and modded the ecu already by bumping the rev limit up to 6500 and taking out emissions, since my car does not need to run them, I'm an Ozone killer I know. Can I tell by the serial number what year it originally came from?
I dont need a full 7000rpm. I am looking at a road racer view point, if I am on the track and need that little bit of stretch to be able to hit the next corner without shifting then it would be nice. Also it helps with the top speed if I ever need to pull my 5th gear setup to 180+. The engine rpm calculator shows 7k rpm is about 210 mph, LOL.
The only thing I did was buy the cam setup from comp cams and they recommended all the parts that go with the valve train. It is my first true engine build and I figured why no do it right even though it cost a little more. I dont have anyone to help me or walk me through ideas here.
I bought a stand alone harness from Speartech and a ecu from them. He went through and modded the ecu already by bumping the rev limit up to 6500 and taking out emissions, since my car does not need to run them, I'm an Ozone killer I know. Can I tell by the serial number what year it originally came from?
I dont need a full 7000rpm. I am looking at a road racer view point, if I am on the track and need that little bit of stretch to be able to hit the next corner without shifting then it would be nice. Also it helps with the top speed if I ever need to pull my 5th gear setup to 180+. The engine rpm calculator shows 7k rpm is about 210 mph, LOL.
Well, with the rods and bolts, you should have no problems. I wouldn't think Speartech would even consider giving you a 98' ECM, but you never know. You might want to give them a call. I do not know how to identify a 98' computer. Someone will be a long soon enough who can help you out with that hopefully! Good luck!
ok I will just have to see how this cam plays out in my setup then, I already have it installed I was just curious to how it worked for others. I talked to Comp tech personnel and by looking though the descriptions of the cams this is the one they recommended for my gearing and setup. Who knows until I have it running.
Thanks for all the inputs
Thanks for all the inputs
