garygnu

do you have bleed plug at the highest coolant level?some times it takes a few attempts to bleed a engine coolant system of air .how many qts of coolant did you add?

grind4it

Thanks everybody! It sounds like I am okay. Any thoughts on the 160*F thermostat? I have several modification to this engine. below are the mods, let me know if I should stick with the stock LS1 thermostat or go with the 160. Thanks again, Mark

85' Corvette LS1 Swap

2001 Z28 LS1/4L60E Donor with 60K miles. Factory computer, MAF, LS6 intake. No VATS, No Emissions.

Rev limiter 7,300 Speed limiter 205mph

FAST 36 lbs/hr injectors

Ported 243 Heads with light weight valves

Comp Cams 26918 Valve Springs

Comp Cams 232/234, .595"/.598",114 LSA

7.40 rods, LS7 lifter kit

In Motion Ported and Shimmed LS6 oil pump

Under drive crank pulley

Gear ratio 3.07, tire diameter 25.7"

Stock LS1 thermostat, 2-electric fans both come on at 200*

NGK TR6 4177 plugs with .045 gap

Super unleaded 93

Estimated compression ratio 10.25:1

4L60E, TCI 242931 Street Fighter 3K-3.5K lockup stall

PaceSetter 70-1341 Shorty headers, no cats, X pipe, magnaflow mufflers

Goodyear Gatorback belt 4060798 6PK2025

I had my computer reprogrammed for start up. they tuned out all the vats and emissions. They laid in a table from a similar build. Please let me know if i should make any other changes to the computer. i plan on taking it for a dyno tune in the net few weeks (got to save a few coins).

If you know of a good dyno tuner in North Texas let me know.

Thanks, Mark

soundengineer

iTrader: (16)

160 thermostat is a waste of money...
doesnt matter what thermostat you put in...


you still want your ls1 engine in the 205~210 degrees Fahrenheit range when its up to full operating temps...that is where they make the best power and torque

all the 160 thermostat does is slow down the time it takes to get to full operating temperatures once it is opened...
because once it opens up.. its open....doesnt do anything after that.

grind4it

So, I have spent most of the morning searching these forums looking for a good tuner in Dallas, with no luck. The only post I am finding are like a year or two old. I'm thinking if they are that old the good tuners may have left and went to work for other companies, or started their own business.

Can anyone recommend a good tuner in the Dallas area, that will take the time to drive the car and dial it in? I know that everyone will through it on the dyno and do a WOT tune....and I want that, but I also want a tune that will let me drive the car around town.

Also, how much money am I looking at?

grind4it

Thanks for all the help! I feel good about my operating temperature.

I started a new thread for my latest set of questions.

Thanks again!

mrx8200

iTrader: (1)

Gotta say that that setup looks like it's going to be a real blast to drive. Good luck getting it dialed in.

mike171562

iTrader: (4)

When my stock guage is in the middle, My scanner says the temp is 230 I think some people are mislead by the stock guage. I just say temps almost to 230 the other day when it was 100+ and I was idling in stop and go traffic almost an hour.

s346k

iTrader: (4)

i do not believe this. i've seen several swaps utilizing older gm radiators that work just fine. it seems the factory ls1 radiators aren't super efficient. an lt1 radiator is considered an upgrade...go figure. a friend of mine used the stock radiator out of his 87 iroc with great success. he had a 450+ whp h/c t56 457 gear car that ran spot on his intended temp range of 190-200.

a radiator is a radiator, as long as it is in proper working order and large enough, it will cool the engine. there is no ls1 specific radiator to be had.

OP: everything is fine. the engine is operating as it should with factory perimeters. only thing i'd do is try to achieve a full hot operating temp of ~210 as opposed to 230, which can simply be adjusted by the fans. you might be able to squeeze a few more degrees of timing into it, as well. good luck, my next project will be puttin an lsx into a c4. love that combo.

Sprayed1998

iTrader: (10)

My 402 z06 runs at 172 all winter, right now it is seeing 205 max down here in Houston heat. As far as tuners go, drive to Houston.

Double Aught

iTrader: (5)

My bone stock Hawk runs 210-225 during the summer here in Tucson. If I run the ac it stays over the 210 mark, but 210 is normal.

Camaroz

iTrader: (2)

Most factory gauges are like that. You just need to change the tune to turn the fans on earlier.

highgear

Start cold motor with the Cap off. Keep feeling both radiator hoses till they both are hot
and feel about the same. Add water to radiator until you can see it circulating, top off, put cap back on. I use this procedure and never have any heating problems.

ssdungeon

iTrader: (24)

Does the Iron blocks run any hotter than the alluminum ones?

Redbull87

iTrader: (3)

OP: I have an 87 T/A with a stock 2000 camaro ls1/t56.Im using my stock radiator and stock dual electric fans.These motors like to run hot from factory due to emissions mostly.My ls1 temps idling fully warm sits around 200*.I have a 180* stat in it.While driving I get upto 220*

I removed all my a/c components but just as a safety backup of ever over heating.I reused my a/c turn on wire and a relay to trigger my primary fan manually inside the car which while driving on the highway keeps my temps right around 200-210* and never gets hotter than that.I suggest you do this aswell if you are that concerned about it,no need to run a manual switch when you got one at the hvac controls doing nothing.Good luck

mike171562

iTrader: (4)

I did that a while back, most of the time my temps are in the 195-210 range, its only when I am idling in traffic for long periods with the A/C on and 100+ temps outside that I see temps get up to almost 230, this is checking with a scanner and getting the temp from the computer. My gauge reads right in the middle (210) but the actual temps are 230

I think alot of guys are actually getting around 230 when their guage is telling them 210 , my car is a 98 which is supposed to have a more accurate temp guage.

Camaroz

iTrader: (2)

Not really more accurate but the gauge moves more with temp. The complaint was temperature fluctuating too much on the 98's. So they simply made the gauge not move so much.

joecar

OP, I know this is 9 months late, can you post a pic of your engine bay so we can see how you plumbed the radiator.