Opinions/Experience on these cams for DD
228r
torquer v2 232/234
ms 3 237/242
im planning on staying cam only for a while and look into heads later when i get another car. i dd this car bout 50 miles and has 145,000k. i probably go 2 times a year to the track so i preffer more street than track and will dyno car after doing cam swap. Hoping to get at least 390 rwhp. Also looking at getting a 3600 stall later in the future. anything is apprehiated
228r
torquer v2 232/234
ms 3 237/242
im planning on staying cam only for a while and look into heads later when i get another car. i dd this car bout 50 miles and has 145,000k. i probably go 2 times a year to the track so i preffer more street than track and will dyno car after doing cam swap. Hoping to get at least 390 rwhp. Also looking at getting a 3600 stall later in the future. anything is apprehiated
228r will be a good dailly driver cam. It'll drive almost like stock and give you decent gains.
Torquer v2 will be a very good compromise cam. It will give you very decent gains and still have incredible street manners with the right tune.
ms3 will NOT be a good choice. You'll get the most hp gains and likely hit your 390 rwhp goal but the ls6 intake and stock stall will kill that cams potential. You'll be living with bucking and surging and not have the full gains to justify it.
For a street/strip car with a 4000 stall and fast 90 or better I say go MS3 and never look back. But for a daily driver I recommend one of two setups based on the remaining cam options.
torquer v2, fast 90 or 92 intake/tb combo & 4000 stall
At the end of the day I think this setup will make you the happiest on the street, dyno & track. But the fast 90/92 combo and a 4000 stall will run you a nice chunk of change.228r, 3600 stall & keep the ls6 intake. Great combo for street manners and power under the curve. Just don't expect to break any records on the dyno or at the track.
Good luck.
My cam specs are 224 228, 581 589, LSA 112, and it works great on the street. The bigs cams truly do not reach their potential until after 5,000 RPMs. Thats way too much for a streeter with an automatic.
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After the cam you want a dynotune. If you have to settle for a mailorder then do it but save for a dynotune. You get the most gains and the most streetability when you dynotune a car. Plus most shops only charge you the big $400-500 fee the first time. Retunes are usually much more reasonable. I pay $150 for my retunes on the dyno.
I would definately go 4000. Either circle D 4C or Yank SS40000. I started out with a TCI 3500 and I immediately wanted more stall. Besides that the 23x range cams will definately match better with a 4000 stall for performance. And with the higher shift extension you'll be faster on roll races. Get the 4000 now or chances are you WILL be wishing you had later.
Good luck.
Best advice in this thread.
4000 will be a tiny bit looser at lower rpm but hit harder at WOT. I ran a Yank SS3600 with my old motor and 1st gear was useless on street tires but could dead hook on a drag radial at the track. If you are gonna track it with sticky tires go 4000 if it is a street tire only car 3600 is plenty.
I keep reading how people that got a smaller cam which they have gone a lil bigger even on DD because a tune help alot and not worry because i believe its all in the tune. But I keep getting on here that i should go with the 228r or the tr230. Y? Saying i do the same set up with the 228 or the torquer v2 will the 228 be faster? http://videos.streetfire.net/video/W...ime_192199.htm

But I STRONGLY suggest you get a stall first or at the same time. The stock converter with it's low rpm stall speed and pathetic shift extension will kill the performance on any of the cams you're considering.





