98ss_camaro_vert

So ive been doing lots of research on these cams but mostly found info on m6 than A4. So the cams of choosen are all texas speed performance

228r
torquer v2 232/234
ms 3 237/242

im planning on staying cam only for a while and look into heads later when i get another car. i dd this car bout 50 miles and has 145,000k. i probably go 2 times a year to the track so i preffer more street than track and will dyno car after doing cam swap. Hoping to get at least 390 rwhp. Also looking at getting a 3600 stall later in the future. anything is apprehiated

darrensls1

The stock stall will KILL the performance of any of those cams. The stall speed & shift extension will keep you under your powerband a lot of the time. But since you won't go to the track too often you can probably live with that until you get a 3600 stall.

228r will be a good dailly driver cam. It'll drive almost like stock and give you decent gains.

Torquer v2 will be a very good compromise cam. It will give you very decent gains and still have incredible street manners with the right tune.

ms3 will NOT be a good choice. You'll get the most hp gains and likely hit your 390 rwhp goal but the ls6 intake and stock stall will kill that cams potential. You'll be living with bucking and surging and not have the full gains to justify it.

For a street/strip car with a 4000 stall and fast 90 or better I say go MS3 and never look back. But for a daily driver I recommend one of two setups based on the remaining cam options.

torquer v2, fast 90 or 92 intake/tb combo & 4000 stall At the end of the day I think this setup will make you the happiest on the street, dyno & track. But the fast 90/92 combo and a 4000 stall will run you a nice chunk of change.

228r, 3600 stall & keep the ls6 intake. Great combo for street manners and power under the curve. Just don't expect to break any records on the dyno or at the track.

Good luck.

VaderZ

iTrader: (3)

i'd go with the 228r

camz28arro

iTrader: (12)

I think you would be most happy with a 228r for a daily driver. You should also get a ss3200 or ss3600 stall too. With a fast 92 intake and LT's with all the other bolt-ons you may get 390rwhp even though it's a smaller cam.

rednari

Do the 228. Later on when your ready to switch to better heads, you will realize the full potential. Since the car is primarily a streeter, also get a lower LSA such 112 or 111 to give the car more low end torque. The smaller cam and lower LSA will give you better grunt at stoplights. Neither of the above LSA sizes are too lopey for a streeter because of the smaller cam.

My cam specs are 224 228, 581 589, LSA 112, and it works great on the street. The bigs cams truly do not reach their potential until after 5,000 RPMs. Thats way too much for a streeter with an automatic.

TXZ28LS1

iTrader: (5)

i honestly would not be scared to go with a nice size cam. I have an auto and my car is just a daily driver street car. I have never rode in a cammed car and i have a 230/227 591/571 112 cam. I honestly wish i should have went a little more bigger. I would not mind driving the MS3 as there are alot of people who daily drive it no problems. I would go with a cam atleast the size of the torquer 2 232/234.

98ss_camaro_vert

ok so im leaning towards the 228 r and the torquer v2. what times do you usually get at the track running full bolt ons and the fast90 o 92intake and tb and using a stall? there is nothing wrong with my tranny but would you guys recomend just taking it down to do the stall? also if i put the dyno aside for a bit to go with a stall would a mail order tune work or i am better off getting the dyno because i dont wanna keep dynoying(dont know if thats even a word lol)it over and over just for anything new parts. definally would go with a lower lsa like 112 because i love that choppy sound

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

IMO, get the stall first if you can't do both at the same time, otherwise you'll quickly learn to not enjoy driving your car.

darrensls1

I usually run 11.7-11.8 @ 115-116 with my setup. But I also run near full weight, 220 lb driver & 1/2 tank of gas. If DA is reasonable you could expect to run high 11.5-12.2 depending on how strong your car is and how good the tune was.

After the cam you want a dynotune. If you have to settle for a mailorder then do it but save for a dynotune. You get the most gains and the most streetability when you dynotune a car. Plus most shops only charge you the big $400-500 fee the first time. Retunes are usually much more reasonable. I pay $150 for my retunes on the dyno.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Look into the TR230 IMO.

98ss_camaro_vert

ok thinking of going with the torquer v2 but not sure on which stall to go with because of so many people saying both 3600 and 4000 are good. At first i was thinking of going with the 3600 but there really isnt a big difference in price for the 4000. I usually do most of my racing from a roll but im confuse with the lock up on the converters? Which one do guys recomend for the torquer v2 and is best for DD if even a difference?

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

228r or TR230>V2 IMO

darrensls1

Lockup is the same no matter what size stall it is. Basically when your cruising over 40 mph and no longer accelerating the converter locks and that allows the motor to drop the rpm's to whatever they would normally be at that speed based on your gears. So at 65 you might be at 2500 rpm's and then the converter locks and your rpm's drop to 2000. It's a nice feature for maintaining highway mpg.

I would definately go 4000. Either circle D 4C or Yank SS40000. I started out with a TCI 3500 and I immediately wanted more stall. Besides that the 23x range cams will definately match better with a 4000 stall for performance. And with the higher shift extension you'll be faster on roll races. Get the 4000 now or chances are you WILL be wishing you had later.

Good luck.

Always2Slow

iTrader: (8)

The tv2 is more of a top end cam like the other guy mentioned look into a tr 230 variant or slightly smaller. The stall will help with any cam you get and I would get that first people shave a lot off their drag times even on stock cars with just a converter.

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

Best advice in this thread.

4000 will be a tiny bit looser at lower rpm but hit harder at WOT. I ran a Yank SS3600 with my old motor and 1st gear was useless on street tires but could dead hook on a drag radial at the track. If you are gonna track it with sticky tires go 4000 if it is a street tire only car 3600 is plenty.

98ss_camaro_vert

yea i just use street tires and if i go to the track, its just to see how the car has done with the upgrades ive done to it. Plus i hear you could break the stock rear end with drag (sticky) tires correct me if im wrong. Choosing a cam is a little harder than i though I keep reading how people that got a smaller cam which they have gone a lil bigger even on DD because a tune help alot and not worry because i believe its all in the tune. But I keep getting on here that i should go with the 228r or the tr230. Y? Saying i do the same set up with the 228 or the torquer v2 will the 228 be faster?

jetaws6

iTrader: (3)

228r. I run it and it drives exactly like it did when it was stock

darrensls1

I use mickey thompson drag radials and have hooked up for some 1.5x 60's at the track. The trick to keeping a 10 bolt alive in an auto is prestalling the drivetrain. I always brake stall my car up to 2000 rpm's (give or take) before I launch at the track. 4 years on the stock 10 bolt doing things like this:

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/W...ime_192199.htm


Choosing a cam is hard. The tune is huge when talking driveability as long as the cam size is reasonable. By reasonable I mean my size (236/240 112) or smaller. I have no issues driving my car other then minor bucking and surging when going under 35 (which I counter by putting my shifter in 3) and occasionaly killing the motor in reverse. But I think the stall is causing that one more then the cam is. My buddy has a 228/232 112 cam and a real good tune. Car drives like stock as far as I'm concerned.

Bigger is "usually" better as far as performance with camshafts. That's assuming you have the right intake, stall, gears & shift points to get max performance from the cam. If I was buying an off the shelf cam from TSP for a daily driver it would be the 233/239 113 lsa. But that's just me

But I STRONGLY suggest you get a stall first or at the same time. The stock converter with it's low rpm stall speed and pathetic shift extension will kill the performance on any of the cams you're considering.

98ss_camaro_vert

thanks you everyone for your input it was really helpfull and especially darrensls1 for going into detail!!!

caseypryan

iTrader: (10)

230/224 here and love it