Guys some opinons or first hand exp on H/C street car
#21
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if youre not really looking for max power do a low 23x/23x cam and stock 243s... should be plenty of power for a street DD car. And youll save a lot of $
Real reason i never dropped big money on heads was because i planned on going to a bigger motor down the road; and then i would have to get new heads for a bigger bore motor...
Real reason i never dropped big money on heads was because i planned on going to a bigger motor down the road; and then i would have to get new heads for a bigger bore motor...
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Properly ported 241's with bigger valves will outflow STOCK 243's and SHOULD serve your 430ish hp desires with the supporting mods you have and the right cam/tune. I've never dyno'd my setup, but I'm in that ballpark based on a 120+mph trap speed and 3400ish# weight.
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i had ls6 heads with good clean up and some blending with 228r.lt headers and a tune and put 429 and 400. car drove like a dream. i had stock ls6 intake with stock crank pully, so there was more in it.
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I guess I was refering to this post
#26
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This a very good point. It depends what you want to run. Don't base dyno
HP numbers with performance. Ported 241's that reuse the stock valves, and have the 241's modified in the short turn, rework the valve guide, clean off the rough casting flash in the chamber, even barely deshroud the valves just alittle, and ONLY remove the flash in the intake runner but don't remove or open the runner up. You would get about 270 to 280 cfm which has proven to make the LS1 run mid 11's with no weight reduction with cams as small as Comps old original 218/224 .527/.535 114lsa cam even with MAC headers and the normal bolt ons. And you'll love the car on the street and the track. It's good to make your motor make as much power while making it peak early. Like 6,500 rpm or even alittle lower. On the street you'll get called a liar from guys running bigger runner heads, bigger cams, and its really a mismatch for a 1 7/8" header on a stock cube N/A LS1...Bigger is not always better, like the huge FAST intake and TB. It's more than just opinion. Do searches on setups from 8 years ago and guys were running mid 11's or lower with 218 to 224 cams on mid length headers, LS6 intake and stock ported TB. So now today theres 228+ cams, huge header primaries, huge intakes and they aren't running lower ET's than they were in 2000 to 2002. And they have nice manners. It's fact not just my opinion. Just search and you will see. But best wishes on your car. I posted in the past...i only ran Comps old 216/220 .525/.532 114lsa cam, FLP headers, cleaned up 241's like i mentioned above, Vig3600, Borla, stock TB and descreened MAF and lid. Stock 3.23 10 bolt and ran 11.7's N/A...and when i beat another LS1 f-body or even a Vette, they asked me what i had when they caught me at the next light they didn't believe me cause they were running all the big head/cam combo. Sure in a 1 mile race he would win, put we don;t run 1 mile races
Take care.
HP numbers with performance. Ported 241's that reuse the stock valves, and have the 241's modified in the short turn, rework the valve guide, clean off the rough casting flash in the chamber, even barely deshroud the valves just alittle, and ONLY remove the flash in the intake runner but don't remove or open the runner up. You would get about 270 to 280 cfm which has proven to make the LS1 run mid 11's with no weight reduction with cams as small as Comps old original 218/224 .527/.535 114lsa cam even with MAC headers and the normal bolt ons. And you'll love the car on the street and the track. It's good to make your motor make as much power while making it peak early. Like 6,500 rpm or even alittle lower. On the street you'll get called a liar from guys running bigger runner heads, bigger cams, and its really a mismatch for a 1 7/8" header on a stock cube N/A LS1...Bigger is not always better, like the huge FAST intake and TB. It's more than just opinion. Do searches on setups from 8 years ago and guys were running mid 11's or lower with 218 to 224 cams on mid length headers, LS6 intake and stock ported TB. So now today theres 228+ cams, huge header primaries, huge intakes and they aren't running lower ET's than they were in 2000 to 2002. And they have nice manners. It's fact not just my opinion. Just search and you will see. But best wishes on your car. I posted in the past...i only ran Comps old 216/220 .525/.532 114lsa cam, FLP headers, cleaned up 241's like i mentioned above, Vig3600, Borla, stock TB and descreened MAF and lid. Stock 3.23 10 bolt and ran 11.7's N/A...and when i beat another LS1 f-body or even a Vette, they asked me what i had when they caught me at the next light they didn't believe me cause they were running all the big head/cam combo. Sure in a 1 mile race he would win, put we don;t run 1 mile races
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#27
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The worst part is high CFM numbers do one thing very very and thats sell heads. You have to remember an engine has to rev fast enough and high enough for the pistons to pull in a certain CFM. Just cause you get a set of heads that flow 300 cfm doesn't mean that you will get 300 cfm all the time and all rpms. The faster a motor revs the more air it draws through the motor. Forget abou the cam for a moment. It takes a certain motor/piston speed to be able to take advantage of a 300cfm head on a 346cid motor. And a bigger cube motor revs a certain rpm to draw in the same 300rpm. Sooner if the motor is bigger. So if someone is just trying to build a strong, torquey motor its possible the motor wont see the heads 300cfm cause the motor isn't reaching the rpm to take advantage of 300cfm. Like i said before i know for a fact that a LS1 head that only flowed 255 cfm maxed out with a TR224 cam with MACs run low 11's with some weight reduction, but the car had a cage and the owner wasn't a 130lb driver. Now i'll still take a set of well ported 241's or 243's all day over AFR 205 heads. I know they look great but a well prepped GM heads will meet or beat the AFR's. Just ask any guy that bought the AFR's how much time he dropped in his ET. Most of those guys either say they haven't been back to the track after they swapped to the AFR's even though they have times with their GM heads and used to go to the track all the time, but after they installed the AFR 205's they haven't got any new times. Who's kidding who? If i spent over $2,200 on heads and/or a new cam i would sure as heck want to see what i gained, and not on a dyno, i mean real world...on the track. I PM'd a lot of guys that switched to AFR's cause i was within an inch of buying a set myself until a buddy of mind told me to do more research..and when i did i didn;t see guys running any faster than what my mildly ported 241's were doing....even with my very small cam. Then the company told me i needed a much bigger cam, bigger headers and the biggest joke i was told i NEEDED the FAST 90/90 and to spend more to have Tony port the already overpriced FAST intake. So when i told the shop what my WS6 was running i asked if i spend ALL that extra money what gains can i except with the car fully tuned. I was told i should gain about 2 to 3 tenths!!! For the price of the AFR heads, the American racing headers, a FAST ported intake, TB, and a 224 or 228 cam. Well i added the cost of all the new parts you can figure out how i would have had to spend for a few tenths...lol. No thanks.
My little head/cam combo was pretty fast in a full weight WS6 A4 with stock gears. If heads like the AFR's are that good i wish more guys would post what they gained for the money spent. And you such a quality head you should not have to buy a $1,200 intake/TB just to make the heads work, please! It's my opinion about the heads, but thats what the 1st amendment was maid.
My little head/cam combo was pretty fast in a full weight WS6 A4 with stock gears. If heads like the AFR's are that good i wish more guys would post what they gained for the money spent. And you such a quality head you should not have to buy a $1,200 intake/TB just to make the heads work, please! It's my opinion about the heads, but thats what the 1st amendment was maid.
#28
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Well guys I am starting to make a list. Im thinking the 228r may be the best option for the street also have heard a few guys come up that are running low lsa numbers like 110 112 but i thought the cam would idle like crap but atleast the power would be in the lower range rpm where i want it for the street? I am also toying between a set of 243's or TEA stage 1.5 5.3 heads? Will also probably be adding a LS7 clutch for good street manners and a LS2 timing set. I will be getting most parts right from TSP as I have been happy in the past getting parts from them so will most likely order a cam kit from them and all the valvetrain should fit right in a set of 243's if those are the heads I end up with unless i find a used set with good valvetrain that will suite my needs. This list seem pretty good so far guess i just need to decide on a cam and heads based on the options for each. I am flip flopping each day between them haha
#29
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I think you will be happy with the TSP set-up. But may I add one more suggestion to you ?? Have you looked at (FMS) Futral Motorsports cams or (LMS) Livernois Motorsports Stg II LS6 heads ?
The F13 is a 230/232 cam on 114 LSA with great street manners and with good set of heads 5.3's or 243's and a good tune ,you would be happy with the street manners and track performance as well.
This is just another suggestion , but I know TSP will do you right as well .
The F13 is a 230/232 cam on 114 LSA with great street manners and with good set of heads 5.3's or 243's and a good tune ,you would be happy with the street manners and track performance as well.
This is just another suggestion , but I know TSP will do you right as well .
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#30
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I think you will be happy with the TSP set-up. But may I add one more suggestion to you ?? Have you looked at (FMS) Futral Motorsports cams or (LMS) Livernois Motorsports Stg II LS6 heads ?
The F13 is a 230/232 cam on 114 LSA with great street manners and with good set of heads 5.3's or 243's and a good tune ,you would be happy with the street manners and track performance as well.
This is just another suggestion , but I know TSP will do you right as well .![Nod](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_nod.gif)
The F13 is a 230/232 cam on 114 LSA with great street manners and with good set of heads 5.3's or 243's and a good tune ,you would be happy with the street manners and track performance as well.
This is just another suggestion , but I know TSP will do you right as well .
![Nod](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_nod.gif)
Also I am not exactly on a budget on this build but then again i dont want to just get the biggest and baddest, i am thinking the 243's redone with the cam kit will be a good head for the 228r but am also toying with tea stg 1.5 5.3 heads but i dont want to waste another grand for minimal gains, anyone with knowledge on maybe a gain difference or opinion would be great....also my car is a full bolt on after tuning would i be out of reach hoping for 420-430HP
Thanks again guys lots of good info a good helpful people on here
#31
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IMO decide on what you are doing with the car; drag racing, street racing, road race, fun street car.
I would get a set of 243 and get a custom EPS cam. There's a good thread about them in the dyno section.
With all the people making great power with smaller cams I don't see why people use cams like the MS4. Yeah you will have over 400rwhp but no torque. Just depends on what you want to do.
I would get a set of 243 and get a custom EPS cam. There's a good thread about them in the dyno section.
With all the people making great power with smaller cams I don't see why people use cams like the MS4. Yeah you will have over 400rwhp but no torque. Just depends on what you want to do.
#32
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IMO decide on what you are doing with the car; drag racing, street racing, road race, fun street car.
I would get a set of 243 and get a custom EPS cam. There's a good thread about them in the dyno section.
With all the people making great power with smaller cams I don't see why people use cams like the MS4. Yeah you will have over 400rwhp but no torque. Just depends on what you want to do.
I would get a set of 243 and get a custom EPS cam. There's a good thread about them in the dyno section.
With all the people making great power with smaller cams I don't see why people use cams like the MS4. Yeah you will have over 400rwhp but no torque. Just depends on what you want to do.
I just need to do some more searching to see differences in 243's and the tea's to see if i can justify the extra coin and if its a worthwhile gain
#33
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Just FYI with the TEA 5.3 15 heads. The set of heads that I have, and after talking to Geoff@EPS, TEA drops the intake valve down which reduces PTV clearance.
I am running a 226/230 .598/.600 112+2 cam and had to flycut.
I am not trying to steer you away from the heads because they are suppose to be awesome(I will let you know my results when I get my car tuned soon)but to let you know you may have to fly cut even with a smaller cam.
I have no complaints about having to flycut. I engine was on the stand and I wanted more compression anyway so it worked out.
I am running a 226/230 .598/.600 112+2 cam and had to flycut.
I am not trying to steer you away from the heads because they are suppose to be awesome(I will let you know my results when I get my car tuned soon)but to let you know you may have to fly cut even with a smaller cam.
I have no complaints about having to flycut. I engine was on the stand and I wanted more compression anyway so it worked out.
#34
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Also when I talked to TEA they said with those heads not to run anything bigger than 228 on the intake. After measuring my PTV clearance I can see why. There was another board member that had plenty of PTV so I don't know if it was something they use to do or do now or just on some heads.
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i drove my car for about 2 years with h/c. car drove great with no problems. now i have a dd so i dont drive it everyday anymore but i could if i wanted to. the parts i did were:
tsp v2. cam
ls6 ported oil pump
tsp hardend push rods
prc dual springs new seats, seals and retainers
ls2 chain
ls7 lifters
stock ls6 heads and new gaskets and bolts.
the car drove great everyday. imo these are some things you might wonna change out while your in there if your gonna be driving it everyday. the car put down a lil over 400rwhp. good luck with your build
Raul
tsp v2. cam
ls6 ported oil pump
tsp hardend push rods
prc dual springs new seats, seals and retainers
ls2 chain
ls7 lifters
stock ls6 heads and new gaskets and bolts.
the car drove great everyday. imo these are some things you might wonna change out while your in there if your gonna be driving it everyday. the car put down a lil over 400rwhp. good luck with your build
Raul
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Just FYI with the TEA 5.3 15 heads. The set of heads that I have, and after talking to Geoff@EPS, TEA drops the intake valve down which reduces PTV clearance.
I am running a 226/230 .598/.600 112+2 cam and had to flycut.
I am not trying to steer you away from the heads because they are suppose to be awesome(I will let you know my results when I get my car tuned soon)but to let you know you may have to fly cut even with a smaller cam.
I have no complaints about having to flycut. I engine was on the stand and I wanted more compression anyway so it worked out.
I am running a 226/230 .598/.600 112+2 cam and had to flycut.
I am not trying to steer you away from the heads because they are suppose to be awesome(I will let you know my results when I get my car tuned soon)but to let you know you may have to fly cut even with a smaller cam.
I have no complaints about having to flycut. I engine was on the stand and I wanted more compression anyway so it worked out.
#37
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I had the heads cc'd and they were 64cc. I think they are smaller than that factory but TEA does some chamber work which opens them up some.
With 64cc's and using a .051 GM MLS gasket I had this for PTV. I was using a solid lifter.
BDTC
15 degrees .225
10 degrees .151
5 degrees .098
0 degress .055
ATDC
5 degrees .029
10 degrees .019
15 degrees .024
20 degrees .045
Since I didn't have enough anyway I decided to have them cut down to 59cc. The machine shop said they took of .025-.027.
When I talked to TEA I can't remember if they said 226 or 228 on the intake. I talked to them about using the TR230 cam and they didn't think it would fit w/o fly cutting. I ended up going with that EPS cam and had to cut anyway.
Here's a link to one of my threads. I jumped the gun and cut the exhaust and didn't need to. I'm finally over that, I was real pissed about it at first.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ve-flycut.html
Last edited by LilJayV10; 10-14-2010 at 12:42 AM.
#40
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I would just buy 243 cylinder heads and forgot about ported 241s. First you don't have to worry about port work not being correct or uneven from cylinder to cylinder. 243 heads have a 210cc runner which is pretty dead on for a street car on a ls1 just get a quality valve job on them and mill them down a bit and run a cam similar to your 228r and its an easy 400rwhp with even a ls6 intake. You don't even need to find a sodium filled valve head either if its just a street car, so even 799 castings work and will cut costs down. if you put the machine work into them and clean them up should flow around 280 cfm and you wont have to worry about leaks or siliconing things like ported 241 heads. Last but not least if you ever wanted to move up in cylinder heads even after getting the 243s slightly milled and the valve job on them they will sell pretty quickly and retain their value pretty well where as 241s you can barely give away.
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