gonna try running cracked block
JB weld is some good ****. We've fixed a 3-4" crack on the outside of a BBC block with it before and held just fine, and that was in a rough riding old jet boat making around 500HP.
i would try it i had some rotating assembly that had a broke rod i reused the broke rod i ran out of duck tape so i used shipping taping and a little scotch tape its still going strong it just has a small knock
To answer your only relevant question, yes, I do live in an area where these are hard to obtain at any price. Even in Salt Lake City, which is 100 miles south, they're still challenging to get for less than a grand.
I don't understand how we got to the point where 99% of enthusiasts mistakenly believe that any crack renders a block junk. I've successfully run bigger cracks than this, but they were in the traditional SBCs and BBCs. This is my first cracked LSx. I'm curious to see if it'll do what all those stock Ford 5.0 blocks do when you push them past 650 rwhp. They literally split in half.
I'm not putting this in my daily driver, it's going in my weekend toy. So if it does let go at a bad time, well, I won't miss work, I can wait for AAA to send a tow truck.
Are you really not even a little curious to find out what it'll survive?
I don't understand how we got to the point where 99% of enthusiasts mistakenly believe that any crack renders a block junk. I've successfully run bigger cracks than this, but they were in the traditional SBCs and BBCs. This is my first cracked LSx. I'm curious to see if it'll do what all those stock Ford 5.0 blocks do when you push them past 650 rwhp. They literally split in half.
I'm not putting this in my daily driver, it's going in my weekend toy. So if it does let go at a bad time, well, I won't miss work, I can wait for AAA to send a tow truck.
Are you really not even a little curious to find out what it'll survive?
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Hard to tell where the crack ends to drill it out in that tight space. Or is it?
Thermal expansion can play hell on cracks also. Ive seen cracks not leak at all cold, once hot they leak like crazy.
Thermal expansion can play hell on cracks also. Ive seen cracks not leak at all cold, once hot they leak like crazy.
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On your first point, that's what the dentist-style mirror is for, though it's darn hard to photograph what I saw while using it. The only ways to get to the crack is either a very tiny bit on a hobby drill, with a right angle between the chuck and the motor, which I'll try first, or an extremely long bit, right through the length of the entire bolt hole. Those bits are not cheap.
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have you tried this?
For only $300 more, I could have a new aluminum LS2 block to put my good parts with. and for another $300 plus pistons and balancing. I couldstep up to the big-bore L92 / LS3 block.
But if I did that, then I'd do the new 4" stroke crank that's under $600. It's not 4340, but that's fine by me.
I do have plans for a 416, for my '06 GMC Sierra 1500.
This 6.0 is getting a cam no "bigger" than 215 / 219, with stock heads, preferably #243 or #799, but maybe #317 or even #241, which, in any case, will have only the exhaust valve guide bosses tapered, and the exhaust ports and chambers polished. I'll complete with LS1 or truck intake manifold,( I have both ) ported and polished exhaust manifolds, ( I have '00 Z28 and '01 truck versions ) and maybe 2 new new Chinese turbos. If so, It'll be air-to-air intercooled, with NO more than 11 psi in the intake manifold. This could go in my '84 Fiero albeit sans boost, or my '84 Trans Am, or my '89 Mustang. I'm leaning toward the Trans Am.
I appreciate your effort, but I was aware of this block and this price.
For only $300 more, I could have a new aluminum LS2 block to put my good parts with. and for another $300 plus pistons and balancing. I couldstep up to the big-bore L92 / LS3 block.
But if I did that, then I'd do the new 4" stroke crank that's under $600. It's not 4340, but that's fine by me.
I do have plans for a 416, for my '06 GMC Sierra 1500.
This 6.0 is getting a cam no "bigger" than 215 / 219, with stock heads, preferably #243 or #799, but maybe #317 or even #241, which, in any case, will have only the exhaust valve guide bosses tapered, and the exhaust ports and chambers polished. I'll complete with LS1 or truck intake manifold,( I have both ) ported and polished exhaust manifolds, ( I have '00 Z28 and '01 truck versions ) and maybe 2 new new Chinese turbos. If so, It'll be air-to-air intercooled, with NO more than 11 psi in the intake manifold. This could go in my '84 Fiero albeit sans boost, or my '84 Trans Am, or my '89 Mustang. I'm leaning toward the Trans Am.
For only $300 more, I could have a new aluminum LS2 block to put my good parts with. and for another $300 plus pistons and balancing. I couldstep up to the big-bore L92 / LS3 block.
But if I did that, then I'd do the new 4" stroke crank that's under $600. It's not 4340, but that's fine by me.
I do have plans for a 416, for my '06 GMC Sierra 1500.
This 6.0 is getting a cam no "bigger" than 215 / 219, with stock heads, preferably #243 or #799, but maybe #317 or even #241, which, in any case, will have only the exhaust valve guide bosses tapered, and the exhaust ports and chambers polished. I'll complete with LS1 or truck intake manifold,( I have both ) ported and polished exhaust manifolds, ( I have '00 Z28 and '01 truck versions ) and maybe 2 new new Chinese turbos. If so, It'll be air-to-air intercooled, with NO more than 11 psi in the intake manifold. This could go in my '84 Fiero albeit sans boost, or my '84 Trans Am, or my '89 Mustang. I'm leaning toward the Trans Am.
I appreciate your effort, but I was aware of this block and this price.
For only $300 more, I could have a new aluminum LS2 block to put my good parts with. and for another $300 plus pistons and balancing. I couldstep up to the big-bore L92 / LS3 block.
But if I did that, then I'd do the new 4" stroke crank that's under $600. It's not 4340, but that's fine by me.
I do have plans for a 416, for my '06 GMC Sierra 1500.
This 6.0 is getting a cam no "bigger" than 215 / 219, with stock heads, preferably #243 or #799, but maybe #317 or even #241, which, in any case, will have only the exhaust valve guide bosses tapered, and the exhaust ports and chambers polished. I'll complete with LS1 or truck intake manifold,( I have both ) ported and polished exhaust manifolds, ( I have '00 Z28 and '01 truck versions ) and maybe 2 new new Chinese turbos. If so, It'll be air-to-air intercooled, with NO more than 11 psi in the intake manifold. This could go in my '84 Fiero albeit sans boost, or my '84 Trans Am, or my '89 Mustang. I'm leaning toward the Trans Am.
For only $300 more, I could have a new aluminum LS2 block to put my good parts with. and for another $300 plus pistons and balancing. I couldstep up to the big-bore L92 / LS3 block.
But if I did that, then I'd do the new 4" stroke crank that's under $600. It's not 4340, but that's fine by me.
I do have plans for a 416, for my '06 GMC Sierra 1500.
This 6.0 is getting a cam no "bigger" than 215 / 219, with stock heads, preferably #243 or #799, but maybe #317 or even #241, which, in any case, will have only the exhaust valve guide bosses tapered, and the exhaust ports and chambers polished. I'll complete with LS1 or truck intake manifold,( I have both ) ported and polished exhaust manifolds, ( I have '00 Z28 and '01 truck versions ) and maybe 2 new new Chinese turbos. If so, It'll be air-to-air intercooled, with NO more than 11 psi in the intake manifold. This could go in my '84 Fiero albeit sans boost, or my '84 Trans Am, or my '89 Mustang. I'm leaning toward the Trans Am.
It sounds like you are doing two builds.
Pick one and stick to it.
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I'm glad you're participating, but maybe I confused you. If so, I apologize. I have 3 cars needing engines, but I don't need any of them to run. So I have a choice of what to install this cracked 6.0 into, and the other 2 cars will sit and wait until 2012.
I have no heads for my 6.0, I sold them when this recession hit me.
Since LS1 and truck manifolds aren't worth anything, I couldn't get ANY bids on those, so I saved them. Amazingly enough, the truck intake just might fit under the stock Fiero decklid, depending on how I position the engine. My previous test-fits looked promising, but I didn't have an '05-'06 'vette LS2 oil pan on hand. Still don't. And speaking of the Fiero, the '00 Z28 exhaust manifolds are an excellent fit.
So it's one project: the cracked 6.0 block, assembled, and running. That requires a radiator, and all 3 cars have that.
I have a computer ready to be flashed with a tune, I've started on a harness like that guy Pocket did, and I have a starter that won't go in the Fiero, but will go in either the T/A or the 'stang.
I've already done mounts for all 3, so it's down to transmission. I have a '95 4L60E that's the same story as the starter. I have the adapter plate for LSx to the Fiero 5-speed, but no flywheel or clutch. However, I have no converter for the 60E.
All 3 need tires. The Trans Am has received 12" disc brakes all around, which beats what's on my other cars, while the Mustang has the 8.8" axle, albeit with 2.73:1 gears. The Trans Am has 3.23:1 Both are "posi", while the Fiero is not. Yet. I have an 8.625" 3.23:1 axle for the Trans Am, the custom torque arm bracket is already being cut out, and is nearly ready for the pieces to be welded together, then bolted to the 8.625 housing.
Having more than one project car has it's downsides, the big one is there's not enough funds to build more than one, but the upside is that when you get stopped on one, you can progress on another. I always keep 1 car and 1 of my pickups running, just in case of un-forseen need.
I have no heads for my 6.0, I sold them when this recession hit me.
Since LS1 and truck manifolds aren't worth anything, I couldn't get ANY bids on those, so I saved them. Amazingly enough, the truck intake just might fit under the stock Fiero decklid, depending on how I position the engine. My previous test-fits looked promising, but I didn't have an '05-'06 'vette LS2 oil pan on hand. Still don't. And speaking of the Fiero, the '00 Z28 exhaust manifolds are an excellent fit.
So it's one project: the cracked 6.0 block, assembled, and running. That requires a radiator, and all 3 cars have that.
I have a computer ready to be flashed with a tune, I've started on a harness like that guy Pocket did, and I have a starter that won't go in the Fiero, but will go in either the T/A or the 'stang.
I've already done mounts for all 3, so it's down to transmission. I have a '95 4L60E that's the same story as the starter. I have the adapter plate for LSx to the Fiero 5-speed, but no flywheel or clutch. However, I have no converter for the 60E.
All 3 need tires. The Trans Am has received 12" disc brakes all around, which beats what's on my other cars, while the Mustang has the 8.8" axle, albeit with 2.73:1 gears. The Trans Am has 3.23:1 Both are "posi", while the Fiero is not. Yet. I have an 8.625" 3.23:1 axle for the Trans Am, the custom torque arm bracket is already being cut out, and is nearly ready for the pieces to be welded together, then bolted to the 8.625 housing.
Having more than one project car has it's downsides, the big one is there's not enough funds to build more than one, but the upside is that when you get stopped on one, you can progress on another. I always keep 1 car and 1 of my pickups running, just in case of un-forseen need.
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I thought about your offer all day yesterday, and I have to say thanks but no.
