My Head/Cam Install
You don't NEED new lifter trays, but while your there and they're pretty cheap (around $35 for 4 LS2 lifter trays) you might as well. I saw some in the classifieds the other day for $12 shipped for all 4.
As far as the LS6 Valley cover eliminating oil consumption.. I put one on and I am still having oil in my intake. So I got a catch can to fix that problem now.
As far as the LS6 Valley cover eliminating oil consumption.. I put one on and I am still having oil in my intake. So I got a catch can to fix that problem now.
Update. I got the motor mounts installed. It really wasnt that hard with the engine stripped down as much as it is at this point. The scissor jack method to getting the pass bolt back in is great! Thank you cyberkill! I got the new trunions installed with just a few tools that most of us have. Its a great upgrade to the stock rockers and relitivaly cheap. Thank you bene! My svo green tops just came in so all im waiting for now is the heads and the pushrods. I have no idea when they will come in but im hoping soon. I ordered them on the 4th of October...
Okay question. Ive seen a few different methods to cleaning the old head gasket off the block. I did the ice scraper method, but there still seems to be alot of gasket left and there are spots where I can see the bare metal. Do I need to take a razor or some sand paper to it to get it cleaner?
Okay so I got everything installed and I went to start it last night and it just wont stay runnin. Also my tach is not working. Basically it will start and I will try to give a little gas but not much really happens and it just dies. Oil pressure is good and everything seems to sound ok, but it just wont stay running. I realize this could be number of different problems, but just looking for some advice where to start trouble shooting. Also the computer has a mail order tune for my setup. Thanks for the help everyone.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
you need a tune. i wouldn't even keep it running with new heads, cam and injectors at all. trailer it to your tuner and have them tune it so you don't do something bad to the engine. btw clean *** engine bay!!!!!!! has the car ever been driven j/k
Even with the mail order tune? Brett at xp racing (my tuner) said that it should be fine to drive and would actually be good to get any mechanical issues out of the way. Ive always had it either AZ or CA so not to hard to keep it clean.
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From: Illinois
Okay so I got everything installed and I went to start it last night and it just wont stay runnin. Also my tach is not working. Basically it will start and I will try to give a little gas but not much really happens and it just dies. Oil pressure is good and everything seems to sound ok, but it just wont stay running. I realize this could be number of different problems, but just looking for some advice where to start trouble shooting. Also the computer has a mail order tune for my setup. Thanks for the help everyone.
If your tach isnt working at all and it wont run maybe crankshaft position sensor is bad or not plugged in? Thats just an easy check down by the starter..... if thats all fine then I agree you need a tune. I just did a whole motor swap with new cam and heads and my car barely idles in closed loop, def trailor it to the tune shop
on larger injectors???? i don't agree with that but i'm not a tuner . . . bottom line is it's your car and you need to make that call but listen to the advice of others.
ok dude>>>if you want to go ahead and start it and let it warm up a little it would hurt it really AT IDLE. Keep it under 1500 rpm...at that rpm the new heads,cam etc wont makemuch difference. Now to do this you need to swap your stock injectors in because you do not have a tune that scaled these injectors. so if you want to warm it up....swap injectors back to stock. Swap the to your greens when you go get it tuned
ok dude>>>if you want to go ahead and start it and let it warm up a little it would hurt it really AT IDLE. Keep it under 1500 rpm...at that rpm the new heads,cam etc wont makemuch difference. Now to do this you need to swap your stock injectors in because you do not have a tune that scaled these injectors. so if you want to warm it up....swap injectors back to stock. Swap the to your greens when you go get it tuned
Injectors MUST be tuned by hand according to... well.... everyone
ok dude>>>if you want to go ahead and start it and let it warm up a little it would hurt it really AT IDLE. Keep it under 1500 rpm...at that rpm the new heads,cam etc wont makemuch difference. Now to do this you need to swap your stock injectors in because you do not have a tune that scaled these injectors. so if you want to warm it up....swap injectors back to stock. Swap the to your greens when you go get it tuned
ok I will def not drive it on the new green top injectors. However if I swap the stockers back in will I be able to drive it? Or should I just trailor it down to the tune shop? Its about 2.5 hours from my house. Also one more question. You all seem very knowledgable so would you look at this thread tnd tell me if you agree with what im about to do. https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ead-bolts.html thanks for all the help.
ok I will def not drive it on the new green top injectors. However if I swap the stockers back in will I be able to drive it? Or should I just trailor it down to the tune shop? Its about 2.5 hours from my house. Also one more question. You all seem very knowledgable so would you look at this thread tnd tell me if you agree with what im about to do. https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ead-bolts.html thanks for all the help.
. like i said b4, swap the injectors to warm it up and check for leaks etc but please for the sake of god, dont drive it that far. as for the arp bolts....i say swap them out one by one but do it in the torque sequence. if you do it that way you should be golden. I would go ahead and and drain the the coolant to be safe, but you shouldnt get any seepage at all. think about it man...you have the head torqued and taking one bolt out at a time. you should be just fine ok I will def not drive it on the new green top injectors. However if I swap the stockers back in will I be able to drive it? Or should I just trailor it down to the tune shop? Its about 2.5 hours from my house. Also one more question. You all seem very knowledgable so would you look at this thread tnd tell me if you agree with what im about to do. https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ead-bolts.html thanks for all the help.
thats where my knowledge stops lol good luck with it all and post up the vid of you running it at the track and idling! you should be able to drive it around a little but really not on a 2.5hr drive. all that money you just put into it...im sure you dont wanna screw that up because you cant find a way to haul it to the tuner right now . like i said b4, swap the injectors to warm it up and check for leaks etc but please for the sake of god, dont drive it that far. as for the arp bolts....i say swap them out one by one but do it in the torque sequence. if you do it that way you should be golden. I would go ahead and and drain the the coolant to be safe, but you shouldnt get any seepage at all. think about it man...you have the head torqued and taking one bolt out at a time. you should be just fine
. like i said b4, swap the injectors to warm it up and check for leaks etc but please for the sake of god, dont drive it that far. as for the arp bolts....i say swap them out one by one but do it in the torque sequence. if you do it that way you should be golden. I would go ahead and and drain the the coolant to be safe, but you shouldnt get any seepage at all. think about it man...you have the head torqued and taking one bolt out at a time. you should be just fine