so i pull my oil pan and this is what i found...
10-20-2010, 08:29 PM
#21
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i dont have the truck or the engine hoist at the moment to be taking the block around like that. this is one heavy MUTHAPHUKIN LQ4. took 4 of us to pick this up and put it on the engine stand..lesson learned. i need to do something while it's HERE. i havent taken out all the piston yet just one (that shows the bad bearing). i'll pull them all out tomorrow and we'll go from there.
10-20-2010, 09:50 PM
#22
10-20-2010, 09:54 PM
#23
the cylinder bores looks okay. no real damage at all, still feel nice and smooth. im honestly not trying to go all crazy on my bottom end. this is going to be a daily driver. i just wanna repair it and put everything back together and complete my swap. i would like to just change the bearing and put all the rods and piston back on with new piston rings and bolt everything back up...
10-21-2010, 12:07 AM
#24
Rod caps & throw away bolts If you choose to re-use those rods or use any other factory rods from a donor motor - Do not mix up the rod caps when you take the rods out. Each cap is matched to the rod it was cracked off of. You cannot mix them up!
Also all the internal bolts are (head, rod, main caps) 1 time use bolts only. This means when this short block comes apart you have to use all new internal bolts when you re-assemble it. Unlike a small block chevy, those are all throw away bolts as you loosen and remove them.
Hpbob1
Also all the internal bolts are (head, rod, main caps) 1 time use bolts only. This means when this short block comes apart you have to use all new internal bolts when you re-assemble it. Unlike a small block chevy, those are all throw away bolts as you loosen and remove them.
Hpbob1
10-21-2010, 12:11 AM
#25
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aiight man.. im going to take everybody advice and just buy a whole new rotating assembly. some of them are unbalance, internal balance,external balance. what am i lookin for? and what number can i go? i think mine is a 364cu in. lookin for something a lil less than 800 total package if im lucky?
edited: wouldnt it be cheaper to buy just the bottom end of another used engine running? they could be gotten for almost 300
edited: wouldnt it be cheaper to buy just the bottom end of another used engine running? they could be gotten for almost 300
10-21-2010, 02:35 AM
#26
If you choose to re-use those rods or use any other factory rods from a donor motor - Do not mix up the rod caps when you take the rods out. Each cap is matched to the rod it was cracked off of. You cannot mix them up!
Also all the internal bolts are (head, rod, main caps) 1 time use bolts only. This means when this short block comes apart you have to use all new internal bolts when you re-assemble it. Unlike a small block chevy, those are all throw away bolts as you loosen and remove them.
Hpbob1
Also all the internal bolts are (head, rod, main caps) 1 time use bolts only. This means when this short block comes apart you have to use all new internal bolts when you re-assemble it. Unlike a small block chevy, those are all throw away bolts as you loosen and remove them.
Hpbob1
10-21-2010, 09:10 AM
#30
Honestly, for the money you're going to spend on parts and labor, especially if it's going to be a daily driver...go to the salvage yard and just buy another LQ4...just make sure you get to actually hear it run first, and look at the oil pressure and dipstick...then DON'T take it apart...a cam and heads on a decent running engine is one thing (if you're VERY cleanly with your work, it'll be fine)...and if you really want to rev it higher, do rod bolts (1 at a time, I forget if it's the Katech's or ARP's that allow for that).
A friend did exactly that with his LQ4 thats in his fox body...rod bolts, heads and cam...car is running high 10's naturally aspirated and low 10's on nitrous...and it runs perfect...for what they go for at salvage yards, the rebuild parts/labor are NOT worth the effort/price.
A friend did exactly that with his LQ4 thats in his fox body...rod bolts, heads and cam...car is running high 10's naturally aspirated and low 10's on nitrous...and it runs perfect...for what they go for at salvage yards, the rebuild parts/labor are NOT worth the effort/price.
10-21-2010, 09:17 AM
#31
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Honestly, for the money you're going to spend on parts and labor, especially if it's going to be a daily driver...go to the salvage yard and just buy another LQ4...just make sure you get to actually hear it run first, and look at the oil pressure and dipstick...then DON'T take it apart...a cam and heads on a decent running engine is one thing (if you're VERY cleanly with your work, it'll be fine)...and if you really want to rev it higher, do rod bolts (1 at a time, I forget if it's the Katech's or ARP's that allow for that).
A friend did exactly that with his LQ4 thats in his fox body...rod bolts, heads and cam...car is running high 10's naturally aspirated and low 10's on nitrous...and it runs perfect...for what they go for at salvage yards, the rebuild parts/labor are NOT worth the effort/price.
A friend did exactly that with his LQ4 thats in his fox body...rod bolts, heads and cam...car is running high 10's naturally aspirated and low 10's on nitrous...and it runs perfect...for what they go for at salvage yards, the rebuild parts/labor are NOT worth the effort/price.
10-21-2010, 10:18 AM
#33
Trust me, you're going to spend a lot more than that rebuilding this engine. I hate to say this, but basically, this engine is a total loss financially. You would be way ahead financially to find a good engine to start with.
10-21-2010, 10:55 AM
#35
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damm... thanks for all ur input blsnelling. appreciate it. sound like i need a whole new rotating assembly. im not tryin to go any faster than 600 RWHP cuz anything pass that is a little overkill for me. im using this as a DD. any suggestion on the rotating assembly?
10-21-2010, 11:11 AM
#36
Rod, head and main bolts are not re-usable Rod, head & main bolts are NOT re-usable in the LS motors. Both of my LS engine build books state they are NOT. GM state's they are NOT. Every article I have read on building up the LS motor by racing experts or GM engineers state's they are NOT. These bolts are designed to be 1 time use torqued to stretch yield. If you re-use them they will not hold the same torque- stretch to yield parameters they were designed for and your torques will be inaccurate. These authors are only experts in building LS racing motors. And what does GM know about how they designed their own bolts? Personally I would not want to be racing against someone who was too stupid or too cheap to replace their head, rod and main bolts in a LS motor. If you dont replace them, then drive at your own peril for the safety of your motor, yourself and anyone who happens to be drag racing you at the track or driving around you if that motor lets go. Its cheap insurance. Why take the chance when GM tells you not to.
Hpbob1
Hpbob1
10-21-2010, 11:18 AM
#37
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Rod, head & main bolts are NOT re-usable in the LS motors. Both of my LS engine build books state they are NOT. GM state's they are NOT. Every article I have read on building up the LS motor by racing experts or GM engineers state's they are NOT. These bolts are designed to be 1 time use torqued to stretch yield. If you re-use them they will not hold the same torque- stretch to yield parameters they were designed for and your torques will be inaccurate. These authors are only experts in building LS racing motors. And what does GM know about how they designed their own bolts? Personally I would not want to be racing against someone who was too stupid or too cheap to replace their head, rod and main bolts in a LS motor. If you dont replace them, then drive at your own peril for the safety of your motor, yourself and anyone who happens to be drag racing you at the track or driving around you if that motor lets go. Its cheap insurance. Why take the chance when GM tells you not to.
Hpbob1
Hpbob1
lookin for advice . eagle brand in the 600rwhp. and something that i dont have to take to a machine shop to balance it. it would save me alot of trouble if i could just bolt on .
10-21-2010, 11:34 AM
#39
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the ORIGINAL plan was to do the l76,l92 heads, Cam, tune, and 150 shot of NOS. that would get me around 500+HP. but since i need a rotating assembly i figure i might make some power out of my bottom end from the standard 300-325hp into the 400+ ?
im not expecting a 600RWHP just touchin the bottom end at all. i'll work on my heads cam and such. but if a 383 stroker or 406 could bring me alot closer to my goal then i could ingore upgrading my heads and intake manifold for a FAST 102mm. pretty much build some power down there
im not expecting a 600RWHP just touchin the bottom end at all. i'll work on my heads cam and such. but if a 383 stroker or 406 could bring me alot closer to my goal then i could ingore upgrading my heads and intake manifold for a FAST 102mm. pretty much build some power down there