Down on power after spring and push rod change. Opinions please
10-22-2010, 12:23 PM
#21
I will second the dual springs causing more valvetrain noise and this is probably why it has quieted down with the beehives. It is possible that you have put too short a pushrod and have lost some lift and duration. It needs to be checked with a length checker to be sure but my guess is the 7.35" is a tad short if you have a stock thickness head gasket.
With the heavier roller rockers you need a dual spring to keep the valvetrain stable. If you could run stock rockers then the 918's shimmed to maximize seat pressure would be a good choice.
I routinely run timing in the 26-29 degree range with no knock retard. You need to book some dyno time and see what your setup likes. I highly doubt that 22 degrees is optimal.
With the heavier roller rockers you need a dual spring to keep the valvetrain stable. If you could run stock rockers then the 918's shimmed to maximize seat pressure would be a good choice.
I routinely run timing in the 26-29 degree range with no knock retard. You need to book some dyno time and see what your setup likes. I highly doubt that 22 degrees is optimal.
10-22-2010, 12:59 PM
#22
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I will second the dual springs causing more valvetrain noise and this is probably why it has quieted down with the beehives. It is possible that you have put too short a pushrod and have lost some lift and duration. It needs to be checked with a length checker to be sure but my guess is the 7.35" is a tad short if you have a stock thickness head gasket.
With the heavier roller rockers you need a dual spring to keep the valvetrain stable. If you could run stock rockers then the 918's shimmed to maximize seat pressure would be a good choice.
I routinely run timing in the 26-29 degree range with no knock retard. You need to book some dyno time and see what your setup likes. I highly doubt that 22 degrees is optimal.
With the heavier roller rockers you need a dual spring to keep the valvetrain stable. If you could run stock rockers then the 918's shimmed to maximize seat pressure would be a good choice.
I routinely run timing in the 26-29 degree range with no knock retard. You need to book some dyno time and see what your setup likes. I highly doubt that 22 degrees is optimal.
10-22-2010, 01:21 PM
#24
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heres an idea. why not change one thing at a time so you can actually identify what the problem is. changing PRs are easy. did the idle get smoother with the shorter pushrods?
10-22-2010, 01:33 PM
#25
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Idle didnt change from what i could tell honestly. Im gonna get the right springs tonight and have push rods remeasured again. I was told from Trickflow i should have been okay with the push rods that were in it or even gone longer from what they thought.
10-22-2010, 02:52 PM
#26
Griff, I say it again, you are making this far more complicated than it is. Good-luck, hope you get her fixed.
10-22-2010, 05:30 PM
#29
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im asking ls1-450...because hes stating in order to use a certain spring you need three variables.
RPM range, ramp rate, and lift. according to ls1-450, lift being least important.
now reading over this thread i only see lift, so maybe they have spoken outside this thread. that is why i am curious as to how he can be so sure its the beehive making the problem, and no correct installed specs will fix the issue except a dual spring.
maybe its just me but i cant add this and i didn't take "diffy EQ" too long ago...lol
x+y+.58x = dual springs.
off to do a cam swap..bbl
RPM range, ramp rate, and lift. according to ls1-450, lift being least important.
now reading over this thread i only see lift, so maybe they have spoken outside this thread. that is why i am curious as to how he can be so sure its the beehive making the problem, and no correct installed specs will fix the issue except a dual spring.
maybe its just me but i cant add this and i didn't take "diffy EQ" too long ago...lol
x+y+.58x = dual springs.
off to do a cam swap..bbl
Last edited by disc0monkey; 10-22-2010 at 05:43 PM.
