Car won't start after new main bearings
11-27-2010, 06:42 PM
#43
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Did you ever do a compression test? I would try and track down the leak you are hearing..You say it sounds like the intake manifold, you may just have a big enough vacuum leak to set a misfire code.
11-29-2010, 05:14 PM
#44
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update... I did a compression test, however with the manifold setup I have it is very difficult to get the spark plugs in and out and even harder to get a compression tester in there. I did however, test the #3 cylinder and the #5 and 3 only had 70 psi and on #5 I couldnt get any pressure. So it appears that wednesday I will be taking the heads off and inspecting the valves, but I am pretty confident that there are bent valves, especially with the low compression numbers.
Justin
Justin
11-29-2010, 08:54 PM
#45
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Stuff happens, don't let it stress you... patience, it will all come good.
Let us know how you go.
Do you happen to have any pics of your crank sprocket...?
Let us know how you go.
Do you happen to have any pics of your crank sprocket...?
12-01-2010, 08:34 PM
#46
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update... I took the heads off and the #5 valve is visibly bent. I have a spare set of the same heads, but they have patriot 918 springs on them. My head has double springs on them. So I took the springs off my old head and began to put them on the new head, and discovered that there is two large washers at the base of the large double springs. Without these washers the springs don't sit correctly. So, this brings me to a few questions. Should I take my old heads to a shop and see if they can replace the bent valves, or all the valves? should I use the second set of heads, and replace the springs, or just keep the springs that are on it. My brother suggested that the double springs were overkill for my setup. I bought the car assembled, so I am not sure of the exact specs, of the cam, but he said that it's far from needing the double springs, and his patriot 918's would be fine.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Justin
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Justin
12-01-2010, 08:56 PM
#49
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Agreed, turn the motor until cyl. #1 is TDC and check to see where the crank and cam marks meet up at. Crank should be 12 O' Clock and Cam should be 6 O' Clock. 
I just did a cam swap in my Camaro last weekend for the second time and I always double check to make sure the Timing is dead on, and have usually someone there to confirm it and do a rotational test by rotating it 180 out and rechecking, then 180 again to see the alignment. I would honestly run what valve springs you personally think are best for your set up. You do not want to break a spring or have fatigued springs and float a valve. I know it seems like your having a head ache with this engine but sometimes taking a step back, reassessing the situation and taking it one step at a time is the best approach when doing these kind of jobs.
Good Luck with your engine and hope it works out for you.
I just did a cam swap in my Camaro last weekend for the second time and I always double check to make sure the Timing is dead on, and have usually someone there to confirm it and do a rotational test by rotating it 180 out and rechecking, then 180 again to see the alignment. I would honestly run what valve springs you personally think are best for your set up. You do not want to break a spring or have fatigued springs and float a valve. I know it seems like your having a head ache with this engine but sometimes taking a step back, reassessing the situation and taking it one step at a time is the best approach when doing these kind of jobs. Good Luck with your engine and hope it works out for you.
12-01-2010, 09:09 PM
#50
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Well, the problem is there isn't a mark on the crank for TDC, that's how I screwed this up in the first place. Do anyone have any advice on weather the double springs are necessary for my application or I could get by with the comp 918's
thanks
Justin
thanks
Justin
12-01-2010, 09:21 PM
#52
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I ran my 799 heads(same as 243 heads) w/ LS6 valve springs on a 561. lift cam which was too much for those springs maxing them out beyond .550 lift. So I put in .650 lift springs(Patriot Golds) on on my 561. Lift cam and it seemed to pull better up top.
I now have a 581/588 lift cam in the car and it still pulls great up top. I'd stick with the dual valve springs IMO. if anyone has a better solution then they can chime in as well.
.570 lift is still decent and should have a good spring set to compliment them especially that your a boosted car you need to make sure your opening and closing pressures are consistent and make sure you don't float valves.
12-01-2010, 09:22 PM
#53
The timing mark is usually behind the oil pump drive gear. The 918 spring should be find for your setup , but the only down side to the 918s is if you brake a spring you will drop a valve, but with the double valve spring you have a better chance not dropping a valve with a backup spring and also get the titanium retainers
Last edited by Randy WS6; 12-01-2010 at 09:28 PM.
12-01-2010, 09:25 PM
#54
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he would have to re-seat the valves to the old head and probably do a valve job on them to make sure they properly seat to the valve seat. It would require someone who has the experience in head work to swap the valves over to the other heads. Can be done but if your going to do that, Purchasing new valves would be worth it in the long run.
12-01-2010, 09:27 PM
#56
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he would have to re-seat the valves to the old head and probably do a valve job on them to make sure they properly seat to the valve seat. It would require someone who has the experience in head work to swap the valves over to the other heads. Can be done but if your going to do that, Purchasing new valves would be worth it in the long run.
I'm having a sleepy moment (I'm good at it)... yes, of course, that would make better sense. Last edited by joecar; 12-01-2010 at 09:48 PM.
12-01-2010, 09:57 PM
#57
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I am not looking to invest any more time and money into the car than I need to, bearing swap project is getting exspensive. I don't want to sacrifice any performance, so if the 918's will work fine I'll put the new heads on tomorrow, and I will give the double srpings to my brother, for his camaro. I was thinking the double springs would be an easy swap, but it looks like it's gonna be a PITA. Is it easy to swap the valve seats over, or is this something a machine shop should be involved in?
Justin
Justin
12-01-2010, 10:16 PM
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valve seats are a part of the machined head where the valve closes on. they aren't removable. make sure to use new head gaskets and proper torque specs. I don't know if you have head bolts or studs but make sure you clean the thread holes really good with a tap to remove any dirt or gunk in the holes so it doesn't mess up/ cross thread the head bolts or damage threads. I don't know if I am telling you anything you don't already know. Sorry if I am. Just making sure your covered for what your doing.
12-01-2010, 10:29 PM
#59
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Maybe I was using the wrong word for the part. I am referring to the part the the bottom of the valve spring sets on. This is different between a single spring setup and a double spring setup. Is this part easily interchangable between heads?
Justin
Justin
12-01-2010, 11:11 PM
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Those are Spring Seats that the Valve spring sits on. Those are removable but should only be used with the valve springs it came with. And on top you have your valve retainer and valve spring locks/keepers.
A valve spring remover can be used. I bought the one valve spring remover tool that someone makes. I forgot who it was. But being the heads are off the car, a valve spring swap can be easily done where as it took me almost 8 hours to do my valve springs on my Camaro.
A valve spring remover can be used. I bought the one valve spring remover tool that someone makes. I forgot who it was. But being the heads are off the car, a valve spring swap can be easily done where as it took me almost 8 hours to do my valve springs on my Camaro.