KCS

iTrader: (20)

Forged pistons would be a good idea. I really like the Probe FPS pistons (P2600F-003) as a good budget NA piston. They're light, strong, and cheap. Plus torque plate honing the block out to a 3.902" bore will correct the bore geometry, help seal better, and translate into a little more power. The stock bore geometry is absolute crap. With a set of Perfect Circle file fit rings (41850CP-010), you're only in the hole about $500 in parts, plus machining costs (hone and balance).

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

Quick update: I finally got the GM Front drive setup (PN 19155067) and noticed one thing right off: on the instruction sheet, there is a part number for the same setup without the AC setup. The kit PN given was 19257325. I did a quick search on Google and didn't find squat. However, you never know. This could be a new item from GM, aimed at folks like me who run older cars W/O AC.

Anyway, I got the parts put on the engine with a minimum of fuss, and set aside the items I didn't use (AC Pump, belt, bracket, tensioner, and bolts) to sell at a later date. Below is a set of pics showing the engine before the accessory drive was added. I'll come back with new pics showing after shots.



The second pic is for people who've been told that the Corvette Batwing Oil Pan won't fit in a 2nd Gen TA. Main points:

• The transmission is in the stock location. No mods to the cross member, or drive shaft.
• I used Moroso early Chevy weld-in frame mounts, combined with LS1 conversion bolt-on mounts for the engine (see pic above).
• The original oil drain location (red arrow, below) is about 1/2 from the frame, once the engine was dropped in.
• I filed another spot flat, and tapped it for second drain plug (yellow arrow).
• Works beautifully.

Now, the last bits remaining before this beast hits the road: new high-pressure power steering hose (suggestions, anyone?), wiring the alternator and cooling fans, and welding in the rest of the exhaust. Woo Hoo!