Cam to make 365-375rwhp?
If you want to get a cam though, definately get a 4-8* split. Something like a 222-230 EPS cam should be good on a 112 or 113lsa so the power comes in sooner.
Last edited by camz28arro; Dec 7, 2010 at 11:01 AM.
I'd love to have a bolt on set of long tubes, but unfortunately I'm stuck doing a lot of fab work to get a set to fit.
It's more cost effective to change cams then mess with the headers or even install the CNC ported 243 heads I have in my garage...
403 rwhp LS1 with stock exhaust manifolds and mild cam
It made 332RWHP/347RWLBFT with the tuned original 99 LS1. The cam was a 218/230 .595"/.600" 115LSA +4 on EPS lobes. If you don't want to get an EPS cam, there are plenty of other lobes that can work.
I bring this up because you should be able to hit that goal with the right cam and the 243 heads with your current exhaust, unless you assume your headers are the world's worst and in that case you could see if stock style manifolds fit... but I bet they would be about the same flow wise. You just need to spec the cam correctly for the power, rev range, and the other components. The CheaTR cam is somewhat similar to the one above and was designed for stock manifolds. All of the cams spec'd for stockish style exhaust have very wide splits... you are going to need a lot more than an 8* split most likely if you keep a decent intake duration. I agree with your assessment that the power is most likely exhaust side at this point. I wouldn't worry too much about the FAST. However, the heads are worth changing. Without knowing the exact specs of your cam, I would agree that you should consider changing it to something more along the lines of one designed for stock manifolds, like the onesmentioned above. Granted, this is without me knowing exactly what your cam specs are, do you know the full specs of that cam? There are a few different Comp Cams that have 224 @ 0.050 intake duration.
The idea of swapping out the heads and running higher ratio rockers, I assume with a stock cam, was an interesting idea. Darkman had some good info. If we assume the exhaust is about as good as it can get then I don't see the point of wringing hands over it... custom LT's I suppose are a solution but might be a bigger PITA than a cam with better valve events for the rest of the setup... which is what you are thinking.
I'd love to have a bolt on set of long tubes, but unfortunately I'm stuck doing a lot of fab work to get a set to fit.
It's more cost effective to change cams then mess with the headers or even install the CNC ported 243 heads I have in my garage...
Last edited by disc0monkey; Dec 7, 2010 at 12:00 PM.
I'd like to get what I need with a cam and sell the 243's...
Haz_Mat: Read that post, that's pretty much exactly what I need. By sticking with the 241's vs 243's I'd be down another 20ish hp, which still puts me in the range I want to be...
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
I'd like to get what I need with a cam and sell the 243's...
Haz_Mat: Read that post, that's pretty much exactly what I need. By sticking with the 241's vs 243's I'd be down another 20ish hp, which still puts me in the range I want to be...
As far as the heads, I guess it is sort of academic: 243's with less cam v 241's with slightly more cam. The 241's do have the advantage of being on the car, and it would be perhaps be easier to keep from exceeding the power to weight ratio.
403 rwhp LS1 with stock exhaust manifolds and mild cam
It made 332RWHP/347RWLBFT with the tuned original 99 LS1. The cam was a 218/230 .595"/.600" 115LSA +4 on EPS lobes. If you don't want to get an EPS cam, there are plenty of other lobes that can work.
The difference is that my outcome was about 26 horsepower less. Some of this is attribuatble to additional parasitic losses in my setup and driveline (2005 CTSV). My point is that the results you get from this setup vary from car to car.
(I subsequently offset the "shortfall" and then some using Trick Flow 215s and a FAST 102/90 setup.)
Last edited by Darkman; Dec 8, 2010 at 08:57 AM. Reason: spelling only
Since I'm a total noob to the LS motor, can someone explain all that gibberish to me?
The difference is that my outcome was about 26 horsepower less. Some of this is attribuatble to additional parasitic losses in my setup and driveline (2005 CTSV). My point is that the results you get from this setup vary from car to car.
These numbers are sort of a shorthand way to quickly compare cams. Obviously you don't see the effect of the shape of the lobe with just the lift at 0.050," which is why the manufacturers will often release the duration at 0.006 and 0.200 valve lift.
Comp has a decent area on their website just covering this sort of thing
http://www.compcams.com/Pages/416/va...-tutorial.aspx
Just out of curiosity, do you have those sort of specs (or the part #) for the current Comp cam in the car?
I mainly just asked so I could see the exhaust duration to sort of get a better idea of what you were running right now. Although popular, not quite the right choice for stock style or shorty header exhaust.
Gotta love the internet and their "throw parts at it" attitude.
FWIW, that engine is down on power for some reason. A completely stock internal LS1 with bolt ons makes 335-350rwhp, without a cam. Something is up. Even with shorties, a 224 will make 355-370rwhp with that setup. Who tuned it?
There was a thread a WHILE ago from a guy that made like 395 or 400 RW on just a good tune, LS6 intake and 241 heads.




