Cam install advice for first timer
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Branford CT
Cam install advice for first timer I have been wanting to do a cam install on my 99 formula for a long time now and finally have all of the supporting mods to do it. Is this something that you would suggest a newbie to do will minimal to moderate engine knowledge? I installed an LS6 intake manifold, longtubes, y pipe, catback, trans cooler and thermastat on my car by myself but nothing that involved internal engine components. I have read the LS1howto guide probably a dozen times to make sure that I understood the process. The four parts of the install that i am worried about is getting the crankshaft pulley off and on, locking the lifters with the JPR tool, not getting the crank and cam dots lined up correctly and having a valve fall on me while doing the TDC method. It seems that if your dots are off when turning the crank 90 degrees to get TDC, it will actually be less than that, causing a valve to fall. Is there a way to know if a lifter is going to fall while compressing the spring? I just wanted some opinions on the difficulty of the install and if it can be done by a first timer in their garage with hand tools. I dont have an air compressor or air power tools so I would be doing it all by hand. Thanks in advance.
use some rod iron in place of the jrp tools... save a bunch of money on that. The TDC method works i stuck a long plastic zip tie in the spark plug hole and turned the crank til i couldnt pull the zip tie out, so that assured i was at tdc. You should take your time on the dot to dot line up and make sure. I turned the motor over several times to make sure they met dot to dot. You will be able to tell if you are off a tooth by doing that. Id say the biggest part of the job is the valve springs it takes some time, but dont lose your cool and do the job right. Good luck man
EDIT: Also i would invest in the threaded rod tool to seat the crank pulley back on so you dont ruin the crank threads... BIG PITA! and a claw pulley puller works to remove the stocker, just pull it from the inside tabs on the stock pulley not the outer ribs. I did my install in an apartment garage with no air tools trust me you can do it man
EDIT: Also i would invest in the threaded rod tool to seat the crank pulley back on so you dont ruin the crank threads... BIG PITA! and a claw pulley puller works to remove the stocker, just pull it from the inside tabs on the stock pulley not the outer ribs. I did my install in an apartment garage with no air tools trust me you can do it man
Heres the thread of the member who produces the tool in order to seat the crank pulley back on.https://ls1tech.com/forums/tools-fab...ller-tool.html
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
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I found a place locally that sold the right thread stock,I bought 4 nuts and some big washers and made my own tool .put the pulley in the oven for 20min at 200*,it should help it slid on easier.can you borrow a air compressor,the zip tie method sounds great also.how many miles on the motor?
All good ideas, and be careful when dealing with the oring on the oil pump pickup tube.
Get some racheting wrenches too, those really save some time in certain cramped areas. Also a universal helps when using sockets and rachet at times.
And be careful when removing the balancer bolt to not round it off.
Get some racheting wrenches too, those really save some time in certain cramped areas. Also a universal helps when using sockets and rachet at times.
And be careful when removing the balancer bolt to not round it off.
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Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 159
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From: Branford CT
Do you suggest putting the pulley in the oven and using a torch? I might be able to get my hands on an air compressor or i could always rent one. The motor has 85,000 on it and I am still debating whether or not to do the Oil Pump. The oil pressure at idle is around 60 to 65 psi and drving it is around 70 psi. I am looking at the Texas Speed V2 cam package and am not sure if that cam needs a new oil pump. Has anyone not replaced their pump and been fine with the stocker.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 159
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From: Branford CT
Thanks Wilson. I guess i wont change the pump then. It will save me alittle money and wont have to worry about not having any oil pressure with a pinched o-ring. Should the stock timing chain be okay or should i upgrade to the LS2 in the future?
Invest in a big cheater pipe. I heated my crank bolt for a while and it didnt help at all. I had to finally bust out the 4' cheater pipe to place over my breaker bar.
If you dont want to buy all the required tools to do the install I have everything you need for rent. Including the rods for the lifters and comp cam spring compression tool. If you want a better crank install/removal tool you'll have to get that. All i have is a longer threaded rod. I even have the modified setup so the dial indicator will bolt to the heads.
If you dont want to buy all the required tools to do the install I have everything you need for rent. Including the rods for the lifters and comp cam spring compression tool. If you want a better crank install/removal tool you'll have to get that. All i have is a longer threaded rod. I even have the modified setup so the dial indicator will bolt to the heads.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 159
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From: Branford CT
yes i would be interested in renting. I will most likely only be using them once. How did the crank install and removal tool work out. With that you basicly just screwed it into the crank,put the pully through the bolt, put the washer on and then another bolt. Then tighten the bolt on the backside of the washer?
Yea thats basically it. I used the write up on ls1howto.com when doing my swap a few weeks back. Someone on here also makes a nice balancer removal/install for $50 also. If I would have seen it i would have bought it instead.
All good advice. I used threaded rod and washers to press the balancer back on. If you have any fear of stripping the crank, buy the right tool.
And I would heat the balancer in the oven instead of the torch. It's less work, and the heat will be distributed evenly. You want that sucker to slide on with the least resistance possible.
And I would heat the balancer in the oven instead of the torch. It's less work, and the heat will be distributed evenly. You want that sucker to slide on with the least resistance possible.
Two weeks ago, with no heat in a sub 40 degree garage I used a balancer puller on the inner flanges of the pulley and it came off without that much of a fight.
Like others said, a pipe over the breaker bar or an extra set of hands may be neccessary if you dont have access to power tools.
Also, are you an auto or stick?
Like others said, a pipe over the breaker bar or an extra set of hands may be neccessary if you dont have access to power tools.
Also, are you an auto or stick?
Invest in a big cheater pipe. I heated my crank bolt for a while and it didnt help at all. I had to finally bust out the 4' cheater pipe to place over my breaker bar.
If you dont want to buy all the required tools to do the install I have everything you need for rent. Including the rods for the lifters and comp cam spring compression tool. If you want a better crank install/removal tool you'll have to get that. All i have is a longer threaded rod. I even have the modified setup so the dial indicator will bolt to the heads.
If you dont want to buy all the required tools to do the install I have everything you need for rent. Including the rods for the lifters and comp cam spring compression tool. If you want a better crank install/removal tool you'll have to get that. All i have is a longer threaded rod. I even have the modified setup so the dial indicator will bolt to the heads.
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Two weeks ago, with no heat in a sub 40 degree garage I used a balancer puller on the inner flanges of the pulley and it came off without that much of a fight.
Like others said, a pipe over the breaker bar or an extra set of hands may be neccessary if you dont have access to power tools
Like others said, a pipe over the breaker bar or an extra set of hands may be neccessary if you dont have access to power tools