LQ9 Build?
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From: FL
LQ9 Build? I have a 2001 Camaro SS with 105,000 miles. My lifters are making some noise and I really want to rebuild if I can for a more reliable daily driver. I found a LQ9 block out of a 03 Escalade for $350.00 with 4k on a new hone (want FI in the future). All it comes with is the factory crank and new sensors for the block and rear cover. I am trying to see what I can do on a budget. My money for the build is in the $2,000.00-$2,500.00 area(possibly $3,000.00). That's for heads and all. I was wanting to go with the L92 heads, for future FI reasons. Is it possible to do this build on this type of budget, or any other options for the build? I am not looking for a whole lot of power right now (budget doesn't allow I realize, lol) just maybe some higher RPMs for the time being (if possible). Any help would be greatly appreciated. Or with this budget am I better of building my LS1 for more power and RPMs for now? And How should I go about getting the most bang for my buck? Would like to try for the LQ9 though, but I know on a limited budget I might not get what I exactly want.
Thanks, Frank
Thanks, Frank
Last edited by wickedworrior69; Dec 15, 2010 at 05:18 AM.
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for $2500 I you have to keep the stock crank. I would get a set of forged pistons and rods. Use stock heads like 243's or 317's witch ever get you closest to your CR you want. Of course your not going to make killer power with a NA set up but your building for FI down the road. Run the stock cam, unless you can pick up a 02+ z06 cam. Start searching the classifieds everyday. You can get everything you need of a couple months to build within your budget, just need to be patient. good luck
I agree with Nodrok, Building for boost is gonna be expensive. You will want a low compression motor, but its not gonna make great power until you put that power adder on it. The stock crank will work, and look to up grade the internals step by step. Remember a strong foundation is always better. Keep checking the boards and you will find the parts you need. I just did a lq9 370 iron block for nitrous and it took me around 6 months to get everything.
317's are 71cc chambers, lower compression.
It all depends on your desires. How much power are you looking for? If you're looking for 550-600WHP, dont bother with forged imo (call me crazy if you want). New bearings, ARP rod/head bolts, 317 heads, stock crank (they've seen over 1000hp), stock rods and pistons and a GOOD TUNE. Forged pistons are great for taking a detonation or two as they flex instead of shatter. Run a good intercooler, possibly meth. Keep the temps down, and take your time tuning.
Look around, there's quite a few people running 700+ on stock internals with upgrade bolts (rod bolts are the weak point).
It all depends on your desires. How much power are you looking for? If you're looking for 550-600WHP, dont bother with forged imo (call me crazy if you want). New bearings, ARP rod/head bolts, 317 heads, stock crank (they've seen over 1000hp), stock rods and pistons and a GOOD TUNE. Forged pistons are great for taking a detonation or two as they flex instead of shatter. Run a good intercooler, possibly meth. Keep the temps down, and take your time tuning.
Look around, there's quite a few people running 700+ on stock internals with upgrade bolts (rod bolts are the weak point).
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+1 for BahN. Rod bolts did my lq9 in. Just saw a post for 900+ FI on stock untouched 317's. If I were to go FI build again. I would use all stock parts including intake and would stick the boost to it. I believe mighty mouse is still running his ls6 intake in his 8 sec car. For a street car IMO porting this upgrading that for the most part allow you to make more power on less boost. I would buy a large turbo (88 maybe)and boost it. you could make 600-700 easy.
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From: FL
Lq9 I am going to pick up the LQ9 in the next couple of days. I found a brand new set of factory LS3 heads on here for $650 and was going to have the block reset up for them when I get it honed. So that puts me at $1,000.00 for block and heads. I just found out there was nothing wrong with my heads, it was just to cold with the oil I was using with the Lucas in it. So I will also be putting my complete LS1 up for sale when I start the build so that should give me some more $. Is $2,000.00 to much for a LS1 complete motor, intake to oil pan w/ headers? if not that gives me an extra $2,000.00 for the build Engine is right at 105,000 miles. Never been ran to the redline, not by me anyways, and the girl who I bought it from said she never ran it hard, if you believe her lol
Last edited by wickedworrior69; Dec 19, 2010 at 08:28 PM.
2k is way too much imo. I'll be honest, around here (midwest) LS1's go for $800. For the money, I'd rather buy an iron 5.3 or 6.0 for $300-400. The extra weight isn't a biggy to me and many others.
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You can reuse alot of those items off your ls1. your not gonna get 2k for you engine. Are you sure your lifters are making noise. Could be a rod nock. May people have driven there car for years with a little lifter noise. I recently heard a guy say he had it for 5 years and still running. If you have to do a rebuild I would run the stock ls1 block with a cast rotating assembly Stock if you crank and rods are okay, with dished forged pistons. Can probobly find some new ones in the classifieds if your patient enough. So you cost is a hone job, new bearings,pistons. Get a set of 317's. Ive seen them as cheap a couple hundred. 3500 stall. Arp mains, rods, and head bolts (the most exspensive part). So for your 3000K all you need to do is put some FI with low boost and you can easily make 500 whp DD (you will need a fuel pump and injectors at this point). Its hard to say without knowing your power goals manual/auto ect
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From: FL
You can reuse alot of those items off your ls1. your not gonna get 2k for you engine. Are you sure your lifters are making noise. Could be a rod nock. May people have driven there car for years with a little lifter noise. I recently heard a guy say he had it for 5 years and still running. If you have to do a rebuild I would run the stock ls1 block with a cast rotating assembly Stock if you crank and rods are okay, with dished forged pistons. Can probobly find some new ones in the classifieds if your patient enough. So you cost is a hone job, new bearings,pistons. Get a set of 317's. Ive seen them as cheap a couple hundred. 3500 stall. Arp mains, rods, and head bolts (the most exspensive part). So for your 3000K all you need to do is put some FI with low boost and you can easily make 500 whp DD (you will need a fuel pump and injectors at this point). Its hard to say without knowing your power goals manual/auto ect
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A lot of guys have made 1000 hp on stock cranks. To me its not worth the gamble at that much hp. I would less concerned with the crank at 1000 hp and most concerned with your pistons 1st and you C rod bolts next than c-rods than push rods. Then upgrading or porting your oil pump.
If your looking for 650-750hp you need forged pistons and arp's. I would then strongly consider C-rods and pushrods. I think you can meet your goal with just that.
If your looking for 650-750hp you need forged pistons and arp's. I would then strongly consider C-rods and pushrods. I think you can meet your goal with just that.
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Lq9 Hello guys I’m new to the board. I have a 04 ls3 lq9 from a Cadillac Escalade that I’m swaping in to a fox body. My goal for that engine it’s 1000hp on a single 90mm turbo on e85, I been told that the block can take it but I will have to change all the internals. I have th400 that it’s gonna be behind it, but my main concern its to build that engine, I have never build one before. I’m thinking to send my heads to get board and polish. And build the heads for now with a stock bottom end ( I know I’m not gonna make 1k hp for now but that will be the goal with a build motor). Can someone here guide me on the right direction please thanks.
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Heads are ported, and rarely polished anymore. Most porting is by CNC which is of very consistent quality. Do a search here about forged lower ends for the info you need for your engine.
