? About Cams for Automatics
? About Cams for Automatics Since I have began researching for heads, I now have a few questions. It seems that the consensus is that for a truly everyday drivable cam for an automatic is usally at most around a 224/581, is that about as high as we can go if we don't want surges and stalls in traffic? Stepping up to stage 2 heads, I did not know if I should try a different cam, or if I would even see any real gains over the Hammer Cam I have now. I know all cams have there good points, and some just put out awesome power--like the one from Thunder under testing--but they are mostly for M6's it seems...
the KEY is the tune no DOUBT. a looser convertor will make a big cam easy to drive. i have a 230/230 on 111 lsa cam with a 4000 rpm convertor and i dont have problems starting up. make sure you have no vacume leaks also.
also a 224 duration cam is about perfect for ANY set of heads out there for making the best overall power.
also a 224 duration cam is about perfect for ANY set of heads out there for making the best overall power.
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
Tuning will make ANY cam more driveable in a A4. But remember, that the bigger the cam the less tuning will be able to help you (unless you don't mind having a pretty high idle). Usually, if you are willing to bump your idle to 900-1000rpm as part of your tuning, just about any cam will run. Personally, I wanted mine to idle well at no higher than 800rpm in park/in gear, and I wanted to be able to tune it myself, so I stayed with a smaller cam.
A friend used to have a 224/228 112lsa cam (which really isn't all that big these days), and after tons of pro tuning (for power and driveablity), he was convinced that the car ran "perfect, like stock" (in his words). I went for one ride in his car and was laughing.... Sure it was pretty decent, but far from "like stock", IMO; but I am VERY picky. Perfect driveabilty is very subjective and will differ from person to person. One man's idea of 'perfect' is another man's idea of 'rough'.
You really have to give yourself an honest answer about how particular you are with your starting/idle/low rpm driving atributes before you go really big. IMO.
A friend used to have a 224/228 112lsa cam (which really isn't all that big these days), and after tons of pro tuning (for power and driveablity), he was convinced that the car ran "perfect, like stock" (in his words). I went for one ride in his car and was laughing.... Sure it was pretty decent, but far from "like stock", IMO; but I am VERY picky. Perfect driveabilty is very subjective and will differ from person to person. One man's idea of 'perfect' is another man's idea of 'rough'.
You really have to give yourself an honest answer about how particular you are with your starting/idle/low rpm driving atributes before you go really big. IMO.
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Thanks guys for the input and telling me what to look for. Would I gain greatly going with a bigger cam, something like a 228 or a 231/237 with 5.3 S2 heads over using my present cam with say 5.7 S2 heads milled at 0.05? I don't know if it is worth it. I have seen this cam dyno at 370-390 on here going through back posts of full bolt A4 cars. I intend on adding intake/tb at the time of install.
Last edited by BoneSS; Feb 7, 2004 at 02:50 PM.
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Tuning is important. I use a 900 rpm idle with my 228/228 114. Car fires right up in cold weather, although I give it a minute to warm up in this really cold weather (20*F in the mornings or worse). With your your Vig 2800 an 850 rpm is probably as high you want to go. With the flow on the newer heads, I'll bet you can get a 228/228 to work fine at 850. It will lope, but you can still lock-up in 4th at 1200 rpm w/o problems.
Originally Posted by BoneSS
Would I see noticeable gains going from my cam to the 228/228? Thanks!
Originally Posted by foff667
im going with tsp's 231/237 cam in my auto with 3500 stall & 2.73 gearing 
i know gears and a higher stall would help but i think with the proper tuning I'll be fine
i know gears and a higher stall would help but i think with the proper tuning I'll be fine
Originally Posted by BoneSS
Thanks Bravo for the info! This would work fine on my present stall/gears also? Any guess on the gains I would see?
Originally Posted by 11 Bravo
Dude, maybe it's just me, but I would rethink that. You ought to look at a good combo of gears, stall, cam, heads. If you mismatch it you may be dissapointed. Just buying the latest and greatest big cam because some guys are posting high peak dyno #'s isn't always the best thing to do. That cam with tiny 2.73's would probably suck on the street.
at some point i plan to step up in gears to either 4.10's or 3.73's depending on where i see myself being et/mph wise at that time...Id rather get these things out of the way first, get the cam i want not settle for something small just for a bit better streetablity and find the weak link...im hoping the rear wont go right away but if thats the way it is so be it then ill upgrade to a 12 bolt. I just really didnt feel like spending $500 for new gears and install and then shear off some splines on my first launch with real tires & a 2.5 str but thanks for your concern
Originally Posted by BoneSS
So is that about the biggest cam I can go for my stall then?