First off I'll admit that I'm in way over my head, I've worked on cars for years I've even helped my father rebuild a semi diesel and any work that needs to be done I'm confident I can do myself w/ a little guidance, that being said...
Now that winter is almost over it is time to start the modifications. My goals are quite specific so that should help some. I want to put down 475-500rwhp through my '98 ls1 m6. It will be a street car that sees very little strip time, but will see some autocross. I'll head over to the suspension section for that, so here is what I'm looking at right now for plans (feel free to comment that is why I'm here, criticism, but be polite).
First question is, are these levels attainable and reliable w/o bottom end work? If so, I'll want to be running stock pistons and a small combustion chamber to up the CR.
Also, can I just port and polish my existing heads for this level and just swap in lighter valves and better springs or are new heads and valvetrain necessary? And don't get me started on cams, centerlines, overlap, etc. all I know is I want a cam that has a wide power band and a lopey idle that will achieve my goals, if this isn't possible please let me know.

Also for reference here is the little that I've already decided on:
TSP True Duals w/ bullets
Pacesetters w/ ceramic coating
A FAST intake (don't know which is best for this hp level)
A compatible throttle body for the intake will be purchased as well
An SLP lid is already installed w/ throttle body bypass

Well, thanks for the help guys. Can't wait to see your recommendations. Thanks. -Rich

Edit: I know that a tune will be necessary, a friend of mine has a neighbor that has ls1edit.

 

first off your going to need a set of heads. to reach 475 your gonna have to go pretty expensive on a set. like the new 230 afr head or a cnc'd 220 trickflow or better. the cam is better left up to someone with more knowledge, such as geoff or pat g. they can spec you a camshaft to meet your needs! and as far as an intake the only buyable new intake is a fast 102. but you can find 90's and 92's everywhere. you need free flowing exhaust such as 1 7/8 headers into some sort of mufflers. and btw the 10 bolt is NOT going to like you at all.

 

Thanks for that and don't worry about the 10 bolt, I'll be ditching it for the 9 inch as budget allows as well as a carbon driveshaft and dual disc clutch.

 

get some good rod bolts also, thats the weak link in a stock bottom end, especially in a 98.

 

+1 on rod bolts. You will want to get the katech ones because (correct me if I am wrong) with the ARP ones, you will need to have some machine work done.

As for the heads, Texas Speed and Performance has some PRC 215cc, 227cc, or 237cc CNC ported heads that are a little less expensive than AFR or Trickflow. Those heads would help you get to the power level you are looking to reach.

Check out this thread...They are very close to your goal and this was before they put bigger injectors and bigger headers in.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...e-results.html

 

you are correct sir, katechs are direct fit. torque and loosen 3 times at 35ftlbs, then the final pass is 45flbs. rod strech equivilent to .0006-.0007 if im not mistaken. in 2000 they upgraded the rod bolts if memory serves. stormesracing your "opsec" location made me LOL.

 

Thank you for confirming

As for the location...lol... In Iraq......lol

 

Thanks very much for that resource, but in my research I found there are many different pushrod lengths available from TSP. Why would I change my length?

 

There are a few factors including the size of the base circle of the cam, and what lifters you are using. The lifter cup in the LS7 lifters sits up a little higher than the LS1 lifter cup. If you give TSP a call or shoot one of the guys a PM here(Matt@Texas-Speed or Jon@Texas-speed), they will be able to answer your questions and help you put together a combo that will be awesome.

 

Okay, I like what I've researched so far with your suggestions. Now the all important factor of reliability. Can a daily driven ~500rwhp be built reliably or will I be hoping that every time I drive it my drive train doesn't fail at the weakest link, then the next, etc?

 

That depends on if you are going to beat on the car or not while you are on the street. Normal street driving should not hurt anything(too badly). Doing things like 6000+rpm clutch dumps will break your rear quickly if you do that a lot. There are plenty of other things that could happen but I think that you can make a h/c car pretty reliable.

 

lol, one 6000+rpm launch on the stock t56 and rear will be the last they ever see. driving a wicked cam on the street with a heavy clutch is a test of patience, i personally love a car that works my left calf and nearly dies when i stop fast. but thats just me.

 

I won't be launching it at all really, like I said earlier it may see a drag strip a few times just for dial in reasons, but other than that it'll be an incredibly fun summer driver that'll see some autocross races here and there. But it won't be like I'll be beating on it like a teenager on his B16 civic

 

I have a chance to pick up a motor out of a wrecked '01 SS for $800. Would it be worth it to buy that motor to build or can I get a better price somewhere else?

 

Here is a simple saying you can memorize for future reference...

If you want it fast and cheap it won't be reliable
If you want it cheap and reliable it won't be fast
If you want it fast and reliable it won't be cheap

 

I know of it as this: Fast, Cheap, Reliable...Pick two and leave the other on the table