Looking to get ms3 cam??
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From: Oklahoma City, OK
Looking to get ms3 cam?? I'm looking to get a ms3 cam I drive an automatic 2000 ss completely stock besides longtubes so I was wondering what I would have to get to run the ms3 ?
Look into purchasing the MS3 cam package that comes with the PRC hardened pushrods and platinum double valvesprings... You're gonna need a bigger intake to get the best performance of the cam.. I went ahead and bought bigger fuel injectors/ LS6 intake/ LS6 ported oil pump and double roller timing chain with my setup.. The cam likes to bed fed plenty of air and fuel jus FYI..
In addition to the stuff the GT_EATR said, I would also get a Stall. What will the car be used for? The stall will help you get into the power band of the cam a lot quicker. I recommend giving Yank or another torque converter manufacturer a call and tell them your plans for the car so they can spec you a converter. A stall is one of the best mods you can do for your automatic.
There is no choice to whether he "wants" a stall. He has to have one for this cam to even idle most likely. 3000+ will be what you will want. If you want something more tame then you need to look into something like a 224 duration cam which is still a great power making cam.
There is no choice to whether he "wants" a stall. He has to have one for this cam to even idle most likely. 3000+ will be what you will want. If you want something more tame then you need to look into something like a 224 duration cam which is still a great power making cam.
IMO, a converter is a must. 3500+ stall speed is the way to go. The cam will need springs and pushrods as well. We can get you the package setup with all of that to save you a couple bucks. I would also recommend a chain and oil pump while you are in the motor but it isn't mandatory. Just a good idea when you are that far in the engine. It's a good idea to get the basic bolt ons covered before the cam. You already go headers but a good catback and induction components are also recommended! Let us know if you have any questions!
Jon
Jon
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IMO, a converter is a must. 3500+ stall speed is the way to go. The cam will need springs and pushrods as well. We can get you the package setup with all of that to save you a couple bucks. I would also recommend a chain and oil pump while you are in the motor but it isn't mandatory. Just a good idea when you are that far in the engine. It's a good idea to get the basic bolt ons covered before the cam. You already go headers but a good catback and induction components are also recommended! Let us know if you have any questions!
Jon
Jon
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Several venders on here sell Yank converters. Before you order the parts make sure you give Texas Speed a call and go over what you want out of your car and they can get you headed in the right direction as well as hooking you up with all the parts you need.
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Yank SS4k would be a great converter for the MS3. You are gonna have to spin a little rpm to get the power from that cam. The 4l60e aint gonna like that too much. Dont expect it to last long shifting higher then stock.
Pretty much everything has been mentioned, other than COMPRESSION. I think running a cam that large without bumping your SCR/DCR isn't worth the jump from a high 220s/low 230s cam. Most don't do this b/c you'll have to flycut when running a cam that large, in combination with head milling and thinner head gasket.
Also, you'll want good flowing heads/intake to keep up with the rpms it'll want to turn (or any cam that size), and perhaps rod bolts if you plan to spin to the moon on occasion. Like mentioned previously, stall/gear appropriately as well.
Remember, the cam should be the last part of your build, not the first. Suit the cam towards your intended application, and perhaps consider a custom grind through one of the site's many sponsors.
Also, you'll want good flowing heads/intake to keep up with the rpms it'll want to turn (or any cam that size), and perhaps rod bolts if you plan to spin to the moon on occasion. Like mentioned previously, stall/gear appropriately as well.
Remember, the cam should be the last part of your build, not the first. Suit the cam towards your intended application, and perhaps consider a custom grind through one of the site's many sponsors.
Last edited by Squirts11; Jan 14, 2011 at 12:29 AM.
That cam will work fine with the factory heads. That's why it pics up 65+ HP over the factory cam without swapping the heads. Ideally more compression would be a bonus but is NOT a must. I would say the majority of these cars running around with that cam are cam only cars. When you are ready to play with head options we can help you with a set of heads to bump compression as much as possible without getting into PTV issues.
We are a Yank converter dealer. We should be able to match pricing if you find them cheaper. Give me a call and we can get you setup with everything you need for your project!
Jon
We are a Yank converter dealer. We should be able to match pricing if you find them cheaper. Give me a call and we can get you setup with everything you need for your project!
Jon
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Jon, in all honesty where is the best spot to shift the MS3 and 4? 6600? 6800? What would be reasonable to go down to in order to prolong the life of the A4? I really feel like a lot of cams are better suited for M6 or built A4 cars. Stock A4s have trouble keeping up.
On a stock bottom end motor, I would set the limiter at 6800 or 7000 if you want to turn it pretty tight. I would try and set the auto up to shift as close to that as possible without hitting the limiter. You might have to set it up in the computer to shift at 6400-6500 or maybe less to make it do it. The factory A4 cars will hold up decently well as long as they aren't crazy high mileage or don't have a power adder on them. For a NA cam only car, it should last a while even with a converter in it. Just make sure you put a good tranny cooler on with the converter and you shouldn't have to worry about it for a while. But if you throw a bottle on it or something like that, you better start saving for a rebuild.
Jon
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From: Home town Clive,IA current town FORT BENNING GEORGIA
your gonna need gears and an intake manifold man, i was running pretty much the same set up but through a 6 speed and i didnt get the full potential of the car untill i got those.....