oneoverwrx

iTrader: (1)

I have a 98 ls1 i was planning on doing h/c and putting in my 240, when i pulled the heads, a piston had come in contact with the head. Have not pulled the caps and mains off but i am assuming it is a chewed up rod bearing. Is it worth doing a 383 or should i find a crank and stock rod and put it back as a 346? Or do a forged 346/7 with a stock crank?

I want to do an ls2 based engine in the future but i cant afford what i want from that engine yet. I need to stay n/a and i am going to do so with this ls1 block. 383 or save my money and leave it a 346/347?

Thanks a ton guys

mikeyc34

the motto no replacement for displacement holds true. a stroker kit is almost always a good thing. it just really depends on how much you want to spend. first i would try to figure out what hp you are looking to get. then do some research on this forum and figure out what would be the easiest way to obtain the desired hp. with a few bolts ons, cam and head swap you could be arround 500 rwhp, with stock bottom end. that typically is enough to get you in trouble. just remember to look at the compression ratio if you get a stroker kit bc that will determine if it is meant for forced induction or too high of compression for pump gas.

Darkman

iTrader: (2)

I would talk to Texas Speed about rotating assemblies which are essentially interchangable between LS1s and LS2s. This may an opportunity to go ahead and get a setup that is partially transferrable to you later LS2 build.

52172

iTrader: (2)

stroke it and don't think twice! Just put a little work into the heads to justify the added cubes. It always holds true no replacement for displacement....

custm2500

iTrader: (11)

It is worth it....

BUT
I love displacement but that statement is no longer true at all. The replacement is BOOST!!
Obviously people can argue millions of points for both sides. I am more of a nitrous fan but for constant HP forced induction in your best friend. I don't want to start an argument just pointing it out for people who dream of HUGE power.

If you want to stay N/A then a stroker kit is the way to make the most power from your block.

RoidedSS

if you're planning to do an engine build such as an ls2 build....why not save your money and just put the block back together and start putting money towards your new build....a stock ls1 in a little 240 should be plenty fun and more then enough to get yourself in trouble. just my 2 cents...for your new build, the bigger the better in terms of power, but like custm2500 said there are plenty turbo builds that are getting 1000 hp/rwhp depending on how deep the pockets are...

oneoverwrx

iTrader: (1)

I completely understand that the crank and rods would be interchangable if i were to stroke it and i completely understand that cubes give advantage in almost every way. Compression in these cars is so easily altered with a different set of heads. I understand. What i dont understand if the cost NOW...is worth the power gain. As far as enough to get in trouble, i am completely aware that 400-500whp in a 2500lb 240 will be a beast, i come from fairly fast imports and know whats up. "not my first rodeo" Search my youtube(oneoverwrx)

Anyway, the main thing was will the expense of a stroker kit now pay off 346vs383? I know it pays off in the 4''bore motors but on the ls1, the block is alot weaker and the oiling in my 98 block is not as good(so they say)

Looking for people who have or have had 383/h/c/i with results. High power with these and etc.

I have had turbocharged cars my whole life and i am a little burned out. I am looking for simple now, 450whp, no issues with driveability, no searching for race gas when someone runs their jaw, no blowing intercooler pipes, no pushing oil out everywhere and etc. I am in no way saying that this wont become all of that but for now....for this spring, i want simple. I need to know is the 37ci worth the effort. Im going to say that the cost of the stroker vs the stock rod/crank build isnt an issue it is just money from other parts of the build and ill get aaround to them later.

Thanks again

Fb0dy0nly

iTrader: (10)

I dont see why the money that would be spent to buy all the parts and have the machine work done to stroke a 98 block ls1 couldnt be used towards what you REALLY want, an ls2? For same price, you could easily find a low mileage pullout and run that bad boy stock for a little while with some bolt ons and be at similar power range anways. Then when you save up again, you can mod the ls2 even more or stroke that one out (hah engine talk ...) but I mean if that is what you want why spend the money on something that isnt, esp since its not very good for your app. The 98 blocks have oiling issues and pcm issues as well. ERL wont even touch them when it comes to doing any type of new sleeves, etc. so I would save that cash for the ls2 and do it right the first time, esp if you're gunna run the car hard at anytime, you want a good solid foundation and it isnt going to come from that 98 block IMO.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

I keep asking and not getting clear cut responses really, but suppose you have say ~$4000 budget.

That is enough to get you into a 383 longblock from TSP, but it could also get you a stock ls1 rebuild...and you could spend ~$2000-2200 on top quality heads/cam

So what's really better? 383 with budget heads or 346 with top quality worked aftermarket castings?

RARON455

iTrader: (35)

My EXP used callies racemaster crank 600 having it checked and polished 120 callies compstar rods 650 wiseco piston set 750 machine work 800 including balancing and main align bore and hone custom cam 425 gaskets and seals 120 bearings 125 melling oil pump 125 arp main studs 150 rollmaster double roller set 125 these numbers are from memory and probably all on the low side,,and this is just for the bottom end. I built the engine myself, I have another 3500 in the top end was it worth it, every time I push the gas pedal... would I do it again Kowing what I spent I would have done a 427, but I didnt want to buy new heads because mine make great power. Oh yeah remember to add another 400 for a good dno tune. add all that up for the bottom end and it hits right at 4k But it is bulletproof. 4K Damn I am glad my wife isnt reading this Hope this gives you a good idea

slowride

iTrader: (3)

If you can find a larger block for cheap buy it, but nothing wrong with a 383 either. To make big power with it you just follow the steps like you would with a 402, 416, 427, etc. It's just cheaper when you already have the block and it's a good core to start from.

JPH

iTrader: (2)

I would like to see you do a 4" bore motor. 383 small bore stuff, just doesn't seem to be the happiest engine combo I have seen.

PREDATOR-Z

Stay 347 and invest the crank money towards the best heads you can afford.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

Guess I have my answer to my previous question.

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

I agree with this....

Stroke being the only change in your new motor will basically shift the power band downward in the rpm band and provide more tq. earlier but not appreciably increase your topend horsepower. At your weight I think it would be more beneficial to invest your $$ in a set of heads that will pick up your topend... If you have OEM heads a good set of aftermarkets will pick up both tq. and hp anyway... Here is what I picked up with TFS 220's over a sponsors ported 5.3 head...

slowride

iTrader: (3)

I don't know I picked up ~38 rwhp and 42 rwtq when I stroked my car with everything else the same except going from a 232 236 114+4 xe grind to the 238 242 114 xer grind with the added SCR of the stroker which I'm sure helped. I tried to keep the rotating parts on the light side also. You can run a little more cam with the stroker and keep it driving the same and keep the powerband up.

I'm all for the better head though. I just got lucky and found my heads seem to do better than I thought they would. Just sucks that the best heads for a 348 are not always well suited for bigger builds so you might need to upgrade later down the road if you decide to build something really big.

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

As I understand it stroke alone will not really pick up much HP because it does nothing to improve cylinder fill which is needed to produce more HP. It does improve tq. though because the longer rod has more leverage on the crank.

Nice build slowride Not too many 3.9" bore motors break 500 There could be some other factors which explain your increase besides bigger cam, more compression and light rotating parts. Heck that alone may account for half your gain A fresher motor (read better ring seal), valve job (if you got one), better tune, different dyno and/or conditions, the way the car is strapped down, tire inflation etc.... could easily add up to a 38/42 gain along with the other changed variables you mentioned.

slowride

iTrader: (3)

I didn't touch the heads besides setting up the springs better. Those numbers were without the ported fast I did and roller rockers. Car was at 445 405 HC and 482 447 with the same ls6 intake. I'd think most would say a 402 would do better than a 6.0L so I can't see the 383 being any different I mean it's only .100". It is what it is and now that we have cheaper crank alternatives it's a good time to build something bigger

david vericker

iTrader: (1)

If budget is the primary factor then go with above advise. However,if you can swing it the 383 will pay dividends in the long run. A well built 383 with say -2cc pistons (11.3:1 SC) will make that 500 rwhp goal easier than a 347 (honed cylinders) and the additional torque produced will get you out of the hole quicker. Trust me...speaking from experience.

Intercooler2

iTrader: (24)

What does it run?


I wanted a 10's all motor setup. Don't think this 346 will swing it so down the road I know I will do a bigger cube setup. Say I could get it done with a 383. Would one of the 6.0's or bigger/different blocks be stronger?