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Anyone doing OK on a hone/re-ring while reusing stock pistons?

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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 09:22 PM
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Default Anyone doing OK on a hone/re-ring while reusing stock pistons?

Sorry if this sounds stupid, but I gotta ask (yes I searched a bit, couldn't find exactly what I wanted to know).

I picked up a dropout setup a while back. Ended up disassembling it (long story), and I was looking to get it cleaned up, new rings, new bearings, polish the crank, etc. (Assuming everything checks out OK).

But after I picked up the Cartech/Werner "How to" LS book, they advise against that. They recommend to use fresh over sized pistons no matter what.

Now, I know what you are thinking........if those guys are recommending doing that, why am I even asking........First off, its a matter of cash. Secondly, I've come across some posts on here about guys asking about prices for honing/re-ring only (and re-using their stock pistons). So I'm assuming people are doing it. I've talked to about 4 shops (before reading this book) and only one of them was against it.

But in reality, how common is it? And how have they been holding up?

Thanks in advance!!
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 10:37 PM
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I re-ringed my corvette engine that had 160K miles on it. Just check it good and it it isnt out of round or worn significantly a hone will work just fine. I used a 4" scotch pad ball. Might not be the "correct" method.. but I put 200 miles on it before winter got here... new rings sealed just fine. Zero problems.
My stock pistons looked brand new yet also... I reused them as well.



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Old Jan 17, 2011 | 11:10 AM
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Yes, it can easily be done. Just check the bores for roundness, as noted above & hone them so that the rings seat. Personally, I would use new rings & not re-use the stock rings. Make sure that you scratch up the bores enough for the rings to seat & give 'em a couple to a few hundred miles on dino oil to let them seat. Don't over hone, just enough to scratch up the bores. Change the oil & filter after break in.
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Old Jan 17, 2011 | 11:32 AM
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Thanks for the replies guys.

I've talked to a couple other places today, and I think I'll be OK.....like you said, as long as the cylinders check out OK.

And yes, I'd never think about re-using rings. Just the pistons.

I can still see the cross hatching in every cylinder. If I get a chance tonight, I'll get some pics posted of the cylinders to show what I'm looking at.
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Old Jan 17, 2011 | 02:41 PM
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Hello , I was going to do the same basic thing . My piston to bores were between .003 and .005" so I bought tungsten disulfide and mixed roughly 1 to 1 with JB-weld and a little reducer and sprayed the skirts . I'm sure it would have worked well cause that stuff cured really hard and had dry film lubricity but I came into a little more money so I decided to bore and go with new pistons . So You could get You're pistons coated or coat them Yourself if You can find the coating . Not too many want to sell just the material . Good luck
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Old Jan 17, 2011 | 03:55 PM
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These newer engines cylinders dont seem to wear at all compared to older engines, no reason to throw out perfectly good pistons! In the old days you'd have a ridge at the top of the cylinders, these LS engines never seem to have much of that.
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Old Jan 17, 2011 | 04:26 PM
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I spun a bearing on my original block. I reused the main internal and replaced the lesser pieces such as (obviously) the bearings, bolts, rings, etc. That engine lasted me some tens of thousands of miles on nitrous. I only replaced it when the block broke off the edge of the starter "tab" where the starter bolts to the engine. Not much good after that!

Bottom line:
Had the starter tab not broken, I'd probably be still running the block today.
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 01:01 AM
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I don't recommend getting a scotch pad and doing it that way. Take it to a machine shop, tell them, or bring them, the set of rings that you plan to use. They will make sure the cross hatches on the hone match the ring set you intend to run. This will help minimize wear and prevent any problems in the future. They will check roundness and everything else while its in their hands. Its common to re-ring stock bores when possible.
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by 70Novaproject
I don't recommend getting a scotch pad and doing it that way. Take it to a machine shop, tell them, or bring them, the set of rings that you plan to use. They will make sure the cross hatches on the hone match the ring set you intend to run. This will help minimize wear and prevent any problems in the future. They will check roundness and everything else while its in their hands. Its common to re-ring stock bores when possible.
The rings said hone with XXX grit. The angle of the crosshatch isnt going to matter much when its that fine. It worked fine. The whole idea of this is to avoid machine shops.
I could take it to the local elementary school and have them do it...it would be way better than any machine shop around here coule do...lol.... which sucks that they all suck...lol.
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Old Jan 18, 2011 | 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by pwrtrip75
The whole idea of this is to avoid machine shops.
Yeah aint that the truth, flex hone works as good as anything a machine shop would do at a much greater cost and much much greater chance of just getting ripped off. The whole out of round thing is overblown, how much does that actually happen on these newer engines, maybe .0001% of the time?
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Old May 23, 2017 | 01:36 PM
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Default re-ring/hone/heads

so if someone can just tear it down & isolate that only 1 set of rings that are bad. you should change/hone all the cylinders? I mean I understand while you are in there you should change this and that, timing chain bearings all rings. but also if the heads work fine do they also need to be sent to a head shop? on a seriously cheap budget, thank you.
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Old May 23, 2017 | 05:42 PM
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On a seriously cheap budget....you can get away with damn near anything. Longevity will probably be impacted. Consider "will i have to do this again next year? In 6 months?".
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