Complete CAM Install the First Time
Complete CAM Install the First Time I really only want to tear into this once and be good for awhile so does anyone have a list of all the parts necissary for the install and any supporting parts that are ideal to install at the same time?
I need to know if a Cam install is way more than just the cam price or if it all can be done < 2k with all parts, necissary tools etc.
I need to know if a Cam install is way more than just the cam price or if it all can be done < 2k with all parts, necissary tools etc.
http://www.ls1howto.com/
And there are allot of new cams coming out from thunder racing
So I would hold off they have one that made 440 rwhp on stock 241 heads 
And there are allot of new cams coming out from thunder racing
So I would hold off they have one that made 440 rwhp on stock 241 heads 
TECH Junkie
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,604
Likes: 0
From: Los Angeles
Originally Posted by jmX
Well, those websites might show you the grunt work, but they don't tell the whole story. Apparently you have to buy a sh*tload of specialized tools to get the valvetrain setup right. No one ever seems to mention that in their writeups.
In addition to everything that is listed on most of the install websites, you will need:
Valvespring compressor of some kind
Air compressor with a fitting for a spark plug hole
Valvespring micrometer to check installed spring height
Valvespring shims to adjust spring height
Rocker shims to adjust preload
Some kind of tool to support the lifters...be it pen magnets or the JPR tool or whatever
In-lb rated torque wrench for the oil pan
big a$$ freakin torque wrench that can handle 250 ft-lbs for the crank bolt
normal torque wrench rated at about 100 ft-lbs
big a$$ breaking bar
pulley puller and a pulley installing tool for the damper (usually you can rent these)
Plus more tools probably...I figured it was only slightly more expensive to just buy new heads with the valvesprings already installed and shimmed.
If you really wanna do it right, you will also need:
cam degree wheel
deck height micrometer
new head bolts for the drivers side head you would have to remove
I haven't heard of any shadetree mechanic ever degreeing an LS1 cam, so you can probably get away without doing it too.
How many people have figured how much it really cost to put a cam in...tools and everything? Is it worth it for a one time deal? Or should you just buy heads and be done with it?
This website:
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23
comes the closest to telling the whole story.
Flame away!
In addition to everything that is listed on most of the install websites, you will need:
Valvespring compressor of some kind
Air compressor with a fitting for a spark plug hole
Valvespring micrometer to check installed spring height
Valvespring shims to adjust spring height
Rocker shims to adjust preload
Some kind of tool to support the lifters...be it pen magnets or the JPR tool or whatever
In-lb rated torque wrench for the oil pan
big a$$ freakin torque wrench that can handle 250 ft-lbs for the crank bolt
normal torque wrench rated at about 100 ft-lbs
big a$$ breaking bar
pulley puller and a pulley installing tool for the damper (usually you can rent these)
Plus more tools probably...I figured it was only slightly more expensive to just buy new heads with the valvesprings already installed and shimmed.
If you really wanna do it right, you will also need:
cam degree wheel
deck height micrometer
new head bolts for the drivers side head you would have to remove
I haven't heard of any shadetree mechanic ever degreeing an LS1 cam, so you can probably get away without doing it too.
How many people have figured how much it really cost to put a cam in...tools and everything? Is it worth it for a one time deal? Or should you just buy heads and be done with it?
This website:
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23
comes the closest to telling the whole story.
Flame away!
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 353
Likes: 0
From: Fort Davis TX
Originally Posted by NOBR8KSS
Well, those websites might show you the grunt work, but they don't tell the whole story. Apparently you have to buy a sh*tload of specialized tools to get the valvetrain setup right. No one ever seems to mention that in their writeups.
In addition to everything that is listed on most of the install websites, you will need:
Valvespring compressor of some kind
Air compressor with a fitting for a spark plug hole
Valvespring micrometer to check installed spring height
Valvespring shims to adjust spring height
Rocker shims to adjust preload
Some kind of tool to support the lifters...be it pen magnets or the JPR tool or whatever
In-lb rated torque wrench for the oil pan
big a$$ freakin torque wrench that can handle 250 ft-lbs for the crank bolt
normal torque wrench rated at about 100 ft-lbs
big a$$ breaking bar
pulley puller and a pulley installing tool for the damper (usually you can rent these)
Plus more tools probably...I figured it was only slightly more expensive to just buy new heads with the valvesprings already installed and shimmed.
If you really wanna do it right, you will also need:
cam degree wheel
deck height micrometer
new head bolts for the drivers side head you would have to remove
I haven't heard of any shadetree mechanic ever degreeing an LS1 cam, so you can probably get away without doing it too.
How many people have figured how much it really cost to put a cam in...tools and everything? Is it worth it for a one time deal? Or should you just buy heads and be done with it?
This website:
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23
comes the closest to telling the whole story.
Flame away!
In addition to everything that is listed on most of the install websites, you will need:
Valvespring compressor of some kind
Air compressor with a fitting for a spark plug hole
Valvespring micrometer to check installed spring height
Valvespring shims to adjust spring height
Rocker shims to adjust preload
Some kind of tool to support the lifters...be it pen magnets or the JPR tool or whatever
In-lb rated torque wrench for the oil pan
big a$$ freakin torque wrench that can handle 250 ft-lbs for the crank bolt
normal torque wrench rated at about 100 ft-lbs
big a$$ breaking bar
pulley puller and a pulley installing tool for the damper (usually you can rent these)
Plus more tools probably...I figured it was only slightly more expensive to just buy new heads with the valvesprings already installed and shimmed.
If you really wanna do it right, you will also need:
cam degree wheel
deck height micrometer
new head bolts for the drivers side head you would have to remove
I haven't heard of any shadetree mechanic ever degreeing an LS1 cam, so you can probably get away without doing it too.
How many people have figured how much it really cost to put a cam in...tools and everything? Is it worth it for a one time deal? Or should you just buy heads and be done with it?
This website:
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23
comes the closest to telling the whole story.
Flame away!
It states that you need a valve spring tool, it states that you need something to hold the lifters up.
You dont need to adjust any of the valvetrain or degree in a cam.
I spent a little under 100.00 tools excluding the air compressor (rented the tq wrench, puller) gaskets 30.00, cam 250 used, valve springs and pushrods 290.00, came out to almost 700.00.
stole the oil and antifreeze from work
and why the hell would you need to remove the drivers side head?
have you ever done a cam swap on a LS1? doesnt sound like it
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Teching In
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Kyle, TX
Originally Posted by PlainwhiteZ28
It states that you need a valve spring tool, it states that you need something to hold the lifters up.
You dont need to adjust any of the valvetrain or degree in a cam.
I spent a little under 100.00 tools excluding the air compressor (rented the tq wrench, puller) gaskets 30.00, cam 250 used, valve springs and pushrods 290.00, came out to almost 700.00.
and why the hell would you need to remove the drivers side head?
have you ever done a cam swap on a LS1? doesnt sound like it
You dont need to adjust any of the valvetrain or degree in a cam.
I spent a little under 100.00 tools excluding the air compressor (rented the tq wrench, puller) gaskets 30.00, cam 250 used, valve springs and pushrods 290.00, came out to almost 700.00.
and why the hell would you need to remove the drivers side head?
have you ever done a cam swap on a LS1? doesnt sound like it
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and why the hell would you need to remove the drivers side head?
have you ever done a cam swap on a LS1? doesnt sound like it
have you ever done a cam swap on a LS1? doesnt sound like it
To properly degree a cam (which I said no one ever does on an LS1) you would need to remove the head in order to verify when piston #1 was at TDC. Any other method is guess work...it may be close...but you wouldn't really know unless you measured the piston to zero deck height.
I have never done a cam swap on an LS1...never claimed to...but I do know what would be required to PROPERLY setup a valvetrain for high rpm use. Installing new valvesprings and not checking the height and seat pressure is ghetto. You're making an assumption that the vavletrain is setup correctly. What if it isn't? What if you were the one guy who got springs that were all out of whack and you just slapped them in there...only to wind up dropping a valve. Maybe you can afford a new engine or new heads at the drop of a hat, but I can't...I have to budget for things.
I'm sure that 99% of people who install LS1 cams just bolt it in and go without ever checking anything, and I'm sure 99% of the time it works well. I was simply trying to let Johnny 5 know that if he wants to be 100% sure that his cam install was done correctly, there are additional tools and time he will need to put towards it. Wasn't trying to start anything...just want to hel people make educated decisions. Isn't that what this board is all about?
TECH Regular
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 465
Likes: 0
From: So Cal
Originally Posted by NOBR8KSS
To properly degree a cam (which I said no one ever does on an LS1) you would need to remove the head in order to verify when piston #1 was at TDC. Any other method is guess work...it may be close...but you wouldn't really know unless you measured the piston to zero deck height.
I have never done a cam swap on an LS1...never claimed to...but I do know what would be required to PROPERLY setup a valvetrain for high rpm use. Installing new valvesprings and not checking the height and seat pressure is ghetto. You're making an assumption that the vavletrain is setup correctly. What if it isn't? What if you were the one guy who got springs that were all out of whack and you just slapped them in there...only to wind up dropping a valve. Maybe you can afford a new engine or new heads at the drop of a hat, but I can't...I have to budget for things.
I'm sure that 99% of people who install LS1 cams just bolt it in and go without ever checking anything, and I'm sure 99% of the time it works well. I was simply trying to let Johnny 5 know that if he wants to be 100% sure that his cam install was done correctly, there are additional tools and time he will need to put towards it. Wasn't trying to start anything...just want to hel people make educated decisions. Isn't that what this board is all about?
I have never done a cam swap on an LS1...never claimed to...but I do know what would be required to PROPERLY setup a valvetrain for high rpm use. Installing new valvesprings and not checking the height and seat pressure is ghetto. You're making an assumption that the vavletrain is setup correctly. What if it isn't? What if you were the one guy who got springs that were all out of whack and you just slapped them in there...only to wind up dropping a valve. Maybe you can afford a new engine or new heads at the drop of a hat, but I can't...I have to budget for things.
I'm sure that 99% of people who install LS1 cams just bolt it in and go without ever checking anything, and I'm sure 99% of the time it works well. I was simply trying to let Johnny 5 know that if he wants to be 100% sure that his cam install was done correctly, there are additional tools and time he will need to put towards it. Wasn't trying to start anything...just want to hel people make educated decisions. Isn't that what this board is all about?
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 353
Likes: 0
From: Fort Davis TX
someone correct me if Im wrong but, all this valvetrain set up isnt neccessary on our hydrualic LS1s is it. The valvetrain is self adjusting, so unless you have a solid roller or adjustable rocker arms thier should be no adjusting?
and on the degreeing of a cam, we have a cam and crank sensor so I dont think degreeing it in would help any?
I think this guy is just trying to be a hard *** or someting.
and on the degreeing of a cam, we have a cam and crank sensor so I dont think degreeing it in would help any?
I think this guy is just trying to be a hard *** or someting.
Don't bash me unless you actually read my posts
I'm sure that 99% of people who install LS1 cams just bolt it in and go without ever checking anything, and I'm sure 99% of the time it works well. I was simply trying to let Johnny 5 know that if he wants to be 100% sure that his cam install was done correctly, there are additional tools and time he will need to put towards it.
Thanks for the posts... this is what I'm trying to figure out is that if I have to buy/rent some tools (not that I would mind a compressor and all the fixings ) but since I have to get it tuned somewhere top-notch should I buy the tools to do it or just pay the man and have it done and warrantied (if there is such a thing)
I would love to do this myself since it seems like a really good learning experience. I have never cracked into anything but the headers and TB off for a port/polish. I always want to wiegh out my spending a full weekend or more in my cold garage and maybe doing it wrong to having a REALLY good shop that knows their **** just do it and tune it because they have done a hundred before me.
I DEMAND A GOOD SHOP IN UPSTATE NY
) but since I have to get it tuned somewhere top-notch should I buy the tools to do it or just pay the man and have it done and warrantied (if there is such a thing)I would love to do this myself since it seems like a really good learning experience. I have never cracked into anything but the headers and TB off for a port/polish. I always want to wiegh out my spending a full weekend or more in my cold garage and maybe doing it wrong to having a REALLY good shop that knows their **** just do it and tune it because they have done a hundred before me.
I DEMAND A GOOD SHOP IN UPSTATE NY
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta
I would recommend doing it yourself, It's really easy once you get into it, and the feeling of satisfaction when you are done is great. I personally wouldn't let anyone work on my car. If I can't do it myself, I don't want to pay some inbred 20 something mechanic to screw it up.
As far as my install, I bought a spring compressor from Sears, I used an air compressor with the spark plug attachment to hold the valves up,and bought sixteen pen magnets from Autozone. I had never done anything like a cam swap before, I took my time, and still had it done in 1 day. I could probably swap cam, and springs, in 6-8 hours every time. I wonder what the record time is for a cam swap? Anyway I say go for it, but beware, working on your engine becomes addictive!
As far as my install, I bought a spring compressor from Sears, I used an air compressor with the spark plug attachment to hold the valves up,and bought sixteen pen magnets from Autozone. I had never done anything like a cam swap before, I took my time, and still had it done in 1 day. I could probably swap cam, and springs, in 6-8 hours every time. I wonder what the record time is for a cam swap? Anyway I say go for it, but beware, working on your engine becomes addictive!
First let it be said I am yet to do a ls1 cam. I have built a lot of engines and installed a lot cams and and and and. As far as checking the spring heights and deck heights, I dont think I would worry about it to much on a mild motor. I mean really you should pull a head and check your piston to valve clearence. Pistons stops work great with the hea on. But I wouldnt worry about it on a non race motor. When you start going to extremes every thing needs to be perfect, but on the street with a mild build I wouldnt worry about spring height or deck height. Nor would I test my valve springs. I would however recomend degreeing a cam, I will dgree mine when I get around to putting it in.
The reason I read and worry and do my own **** is because the tard heads that I get to do it screw it up. You don't have to pull a frigging head to find TDC either. You can do it with a degree wheel and a piston stop.
Launching!
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
From: Ofallon,IL
This is a great thread. When i get home and buy my car. Eventually i will want to do a cam swap. I know paying someone to do it will be expensive as hell. I really want to learn more about working on cars. If i could do a cam swap myself, that would be awesome. Same goes for doing headers. I'm afraid i would mess something up. It would be nice to have a friend who knows their ****. LOL