New Crank Bolt Necessary?
New Crank Bolt Necessary? So, I was putting on the crank pulley last weekend, following the ls1howto directions, came across a snag: My new 1" longer balancer bolt is too long! We came to the conclusion it was because it is not tapered at the end, but anyways... I can see where the new 1" longer bolt is convenient for just getting the pulley on there until theres enough thread for the stock one to grab, but is there a big reason why (such as why we don't reuse head bolts) we cannot reuse the stock pulley bolt after the torque-down?
We did the initial torque to 240 (don't have a torque wrench that goes that high, but we easily maxed my 150), loosened the bolt, tried the longer bolt, after several checks and double checks to see if the longer bolt would go in we gave up, took the old bolt (which seemed completely fine) and torqued it to spec, then attempted to get 140 deg, our stopping point was at ~105 deg when the quality craftsmen 1/2" extension sheared in half
the balancer seems in place and lined up, but this IS the first time I'm doing this... hence the questions...
We did the initial torque to 240 (don't have a torque wrench that goes that high, but we easily maxed my 150), loosened the bolt, tried the longer bolt, after several checks and double checks to see if the longer bolt would go in we gave up, took the old bolt (which seemed completely fine) and torqued it to spec, then attempted to get 140 deg, our stopping point was at ~105 deg when the quality craftsmen 1/2" extension sheared in half
the balancer seems in place and lined up, but this IS the first time I'm doing this... hence the questions...
i believe it is for the same reason as the head bolts, torque to yeild bolt. Replace it each time with a new one. better safe than sorry, I learned the hard way 1 time. My pulley came off after doing a bandaid fix until the new bolt came in. cost me a tow bill and a set of belts.
I torqued mine to about 37 ft/lb and then turned it a full 140 degrees. I used a Snap-On breaker bar that's about 24 inches long, and I really didn't have to work it all that hard... but I was definitely feeling some bolt stretch. (I over-torqued and broke a couple ARP head studs and learned my lesson.) Although I normally wouldn't recommend reusing a stretch-to-yield bolt because it might break off in the hole, from the sound of it, you got it tight enough.
We did the initial torque to 240 (don't have a torque wrench that goes that high, but we easily maxed my 150), loosened the bolt, tried the longer bolt, after several checks and double checks to see if the longer bolt would go in we gave up, took the old bolt (which seemed completely fine) and torqued it to spec, then attempted to get 140 deg, our stopping point was at ~105 deg when the quality craftsmen 1/2" extension sheared in half
Thanks for all the replies, really wish they would have stipulated a specific bolt in the guide but then again it seems to not be the first time ls1howto has had oversights...
^True... sadly shipping from places that sell it is wicked
Found this from an ls1tech post back in '01
If you look on ls1howto they say use your NEW longer bolt as the final bolt....
^True... sadly shipping from places that sell it is wicked
Found this from an ls1tech post back in '01
I tend to agree with Plum Crazy Rob.
The bolt has no undercut and is to short for it's diameter to be a TTY.
Just because a bolt is tightened using an angle sequence does not mean it is a TTY bolt.
If you really want to check you could measure a new and old bolt.
But they are so cheap that I see no reason not to replace them with new ones each time.
The bolt has no undercut and is to short for it's diameter to be a TTY.
Just because a bolt is tightened using an angle sequence does not mean it is a TTY bolt.
If you really want to check you could measure a new and old bolt.
But they are so cheap that I see no reason not to replace them with new ones each time.
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Joined: Sep 2009
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From: SOUTH CAROLINA
Hi,when properly installed the crank balancer hub should extend 3/32-11/64 past the crankshaft snout. 240 ft. Lbs is correct torque. Use a new bolt to avoid issues as stated on above post. Have a blessed day. Jim
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^Just did this, now to hope that the ticking-time-bomb, 13-year-old-original, torqued-to-death sonufa bolt that I wrenched on there w/ a 3 ft pipe will come off w/o stripping....
Holy crap, there is a lot of really bad information in this thread. Only FastKat has the correct final tightening procedure. If you follow LS1howto for this, I sure hope your crank threads are OK as that method is wrong.
I posted the GM procedures several times, however nobody seems to want to use them. Here they are again.
Either buy or make a tool. I made a simple tool for under $20 which is just threaded rod, three nuts and some washer. It performs the same job as step 4 in the GM procedure below. Set damper on crank, thread in tool until it bottoms and then back out 1/2 turn, then use the nut and washers to push to hub onto the crankshaft. Here is the tool and the GM procedure. Note that this is an interference fit of around 0.007" - 0.0011" with no key, so pressing it on correctly is key for it not to come loose again and not damaging the internal crank threads.
I posted the GM procedures several times, however nobody seems to want to use them. Here they are again.
Either buy or make a tool. I made a simple tool for under $20 which is just threaded rod, three nuts and some washer. It performs the same job as step 4 in the GM procedure below. Set damper on crank, thread in tool until it bottoms and then back out 1/2 turn, then use the nut and washers to push to hub onto the crankshaft. Here is the tool and the GM procedure. Note that this is an interference fit of around 0.007" - 0.0011" with no key, so pressing it on correctly is key for it not to come loose again and not damaging the internal crank threads.
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23
7th pic from the bottom, the text on the right...
"...to fix! Take your NEW crank bolt and..."
But like I have said ls1howto's methods have been called into question before...
Thank you vettenuts for the official way, though it seems the ls1howto writer deemed it acceptable to use a longer bolt to distribute the load over more threads... Which should be safe, but for future reference I like the method you posted more. Probably should have thought of it before but I was more in a following directions mode rather than a thinking mode that day...
7th pic from the bottom, the text on the right...
"...to fix! Take your NEW crank bolt and..."
But like I have said ls1howto's methods have been called into question before...
Thank you vettenuts for the official way, though it seems the ls1howto writer deemed it acceptable to use a longer bolt to distribute the load over more threads... Which should be safe, but for future reference I like the method you posted more. Probably should have thought of it before but I was more in a following directions mode rather than a thinking mode that day...
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23
7th pic from the bottom, the text on the right...
"...to fix! Take your NEW crank bolt and..."
But like I have said ls1howto's methods have been called into question before...
7th pic from the bottom, the text on the right...
"...to fix! Take your NEW crank bolt and..."
But like I have said ls1howto's methods have been called into question before...
Hope all is well until the ARP bolt comes in.
Guess my point was that in the tools/parts required section at top the only mention of needing a new crank pulley bolt was the longer one, no mention of a new factory length one... So when it says NEW in the directions, having just discussed it in the sentence before it is misleading...
Guess my point was that in the tools/parts required section at top the only mention of needing a new crank pulley bolt was the longer one, no mention of a new factory length one... So when it says NEW in the directions, having just discussed it in the sentence before it is misleading...
