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Lifter and spring failure.. Which came first? UPDATE

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Old 02-11-2011, 12:12 PM
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You think gm used weak pushrods because they want them to bend instead of breaking other parts? NAAAA
Old 02-11-2011, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by O2Form
You think gm used weak pushrods because they want them to bend instead of breaking other parts? NAAAA
Yes I do, as a matter of fact. It is a heck of a lot cheaper to warranty a bent pushrod than a bent valve.
Old 02-11-2011, 02:25 PM
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really. you're joking right?
Old 02-24-2011, 11:46 AM
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UPDATE:: Just checked a couple springs, and they were both about 125#s at installed height(1.8"), and over 300# at 1.2".
Old 02-24-2011, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by O2Form
I personally woooood never run a hardened pushrod unless i was having trouble bending them. When things go wrong hardened push rods can cause a mess.


It's not the pushrod that causes the mess, it's whatever broke in the first place that causes a mess. Pushrods aren't meant to be fusible links in a performance engine. They're meant to be stiff an rigid in order to transmit motion to the valve more effectively. If you like using pushrods that can bend, then you must be pretty used to your **** blowing up.
Old 02-24-2011, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by NVR_SPDS
So my wife's WS.6 dropped a valve recently (https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ow-update.html), and i thought it was due to the 918s. Got the head pulled off, and now im not so sure. Would a spring failure cause this damage to the lifter?



UPDATE:: Just checked a couple springs, and they were both about 125#s at installed height(1.8"), and over 300# at 1.2".
Where is this break in relation to the roller? Is it parallel or perpendicular?

Judging by the way the rockers look and the broken spring, I'm supecting coilbind clearance. What are the installed heights and how close to coilbind is the spring at open?
Old 02-24-2011, 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by NVR_SPDS
231/237, at a little under .600 lift, with a 112LSA

Hmmmm...I know that cam. Are your pistons fly cut? What head gasket thickness are you using? Are the heads decked?

What is mentioned above seems possible (coil bind) or perhaps your intake valves were kissing the top of the pistons. Who set the engine up? That 231/237 cam lobe takes more rotation before the edge of the intake valve clears the piston. If the clearance was not checked w/clay, the issue could have gone un-noticed. A miss shift could also have cause the issue if the clearance was tight.
Old 02-24-2011, 01:45 PM
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IIRC it was close to parallel to the roller. The break was towards the exhaust side of the head. Ill check installed heights. The cam is supposed to be just a hair under .600 lift.
Old 02-24-2011, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by kcs

it's not the pushrod that causes the mess, it's whatever broke in the first place that causes a mess. Pushrods aren't meant to be fusible links in a performance engine. They're meant to be stiff an rigid in order to transmit motion to the valve more effectively. If you like using pushrods that can bend, then you must be pretty used to your **** blowing up.
bs......................
Old 02-24-2011, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1-450
Hmmmm...I know that cam. Are your pistons fly cut? What head gasket thickness are you using? Are the heads decked?

What is mentioned above seems possible (coil bind) or perhaps your intake valves were kissing the top of the pistons. Who set the engine up? That 231/237 cam lobe takes more rotation before the edge of the intake valve clears the piston. If the clearance was not checked w/clay, the issue could have gone un-noticed. A miss shift could also have cause the issue if the clearance was tight.
AKAIK, ts pretty much the stock longblock that came in the car. Stock 853s with the graphite gaskets, stock headbolts, and an ls6 intake. I bought it modded, so I'm not sure who built it but it appears to be professionally done. We've put approx 30k miles on this setup without an issue at all. Never been to the track either. Didn't notice any eyebrows in the pistons either but I clean em up and double check.

Best I can tell is installed height is close to 1.8", all I have here are calipers. Dont remember the coil mind height.
Old 02-24-2011, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by NVR_SPDS
AKAIK, ts pretty much the stock longblock that came in the car. Stock 853s with the graphite gaskets, stock headbolts, and an ls6 intake. I bought it modded, so I'm not sure who built it but it appears to be professionally done. We've put approx 30k miles on this setup without an issue at all. Never been to the track either. Didn't notice any eyebrows in the pistons either but I clean em up and double check.

Best I can tell is installed height is close to 1.8", all I have here are calipers. Dont remember the coil mind height.

If they're stock 853's, never decked & are using graphite gaskets, then the clearance is OK. 30K could mean that it was indeed the broken spring that ocurred first. Engines with higher pressure/lift springs should be checked every 15-20K for fatigue. There are engines with high lift/pressure springs that have gone over 30k without needing a spring change, but, they should always be tested to be sure there are no issues.
Old 02-24-2011, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by O2Form
bs......................
You're right, you've convinced me.

What do you do if you need pushrods other than 7.40" in length?
Old 02-24-2011, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1-450
If they're stock 853's, never decked & are using graphite gaskets, then the clearance is OK. 30K could mean that it was indeed the broken spring that ocurred first. Engines with higher pressure/lift springs should be checked every 15-20K for fatigue. There are engines with high lift/pressure springs that have gone over 30k without needing a spring change, but, they should always be tested to be sure there are no issues.
You know, i was actually expecting them to be down on PSI like the ones that failed in my car, but they were still pretty close to spec. Im going to check through the rest of them just out of curiousity.

What kind of fatigue should i have been looking for?
Old 02-24-2011, 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by NVR_SPDS
You know, i was actually expecting them to be down on PSI like the ones that failed in my car, but they were still pretty close to spec. Im going to check through the rest of them just out of curiousity.

What kind of fatigue should i have been looking for?

I don't know of a rule of thumb, but would say that if any test more than a few percent less than original force, then change. The fact that there was a major failure would direct me to change 'em all.

As you've noted, have a look for any valve kisses in the piston tops, just to be sure. Again, not likely an issue w/stock heads & gasket, but I do know that that cam is near the limit for PTV clearance without fly cutting.

Man... that lifter if f'cked up. Really sorry to see it. Hope you're able to get all of the pieces out of the oil pan.
Old 02-25-2011, 01:29 AM
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I would say spring fatigue but its hard to say looking at pics and not having the parts in hand.
Someone already said it but spring broke, dropped valve, piston hit valve, jammed push rod back into lifter.
Sorry to see this
Old 02-25-2011, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by NVR_SPDS
UPDATE:: Just checked a couple springs, and they were both about 125#s at installed height(1.8"), and over 300# at 1.2".
What was your installed height?

Personally, I think this may be the source of your issue. You should have around 140# on the seat and I would shoot for 400# over the nose. With those valuves I don't think that spring setup will properly control the valve train. That being the case, you will likely loft the lifters and damage the lifter and cam.
Old 02-25-2011, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
What was your installed height?

Personally, I think this may be the source of your issue. You should have around 140# on the seat and I would shoot for 400# over the nose. With those valuves I don't think that spring setup will properly control the valve train. That being the case, you will likely loft the lifters and damage the lifter and cam.
Thats pretty close to what it should be. Comp 918 springs are usually about 125lbs @ 1.800" and about 360 @ 1.150", with coilbind @ 1.100". I think earlier versions were even less.

Last edited by KCS; 02-25-2011 at 10:32 AM.
Old 02-25-2011, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by LS1-450
I don't know of a rule of thumb, but would say that if any test more than a few percent less than original force, then change. The fact that there was a major failure would direct me to change 'em all.

As you've noted, have a look for any valve kisses in the piston tops, just to be sure. Again, not likely an issue w/stock heads & gasket, but I do know that that cam is near the limit for PTV clearance without fly cutting.

Man... that lifter if f'cked up. Really sorry to see it. Hope you're able to get all of the pieces out of the oil pan.
The damage wasn't all that bad really, especially compared to the failure in my car. It damaged the piston, and there are some scratches on the bore but the block may still be useable. Nothing serious came out when I changed the oil. The stem got thrown into the intake manifold and the head of the valve stuck sideways into the seat.

Originally Posted by vettenuts
What was your installed height?

Personally, I think this may be the source of your issue. You should have around 140# on the seat and I would shoot for 400# over the nose. With those valuves I don't think that spring setup will properly control the valve train. That being the case, you will likely loft the lifters and damage the lifter and cam.
Cam was alright. Had a little mark on it that polished right off. Best I can tell with calipers is the installed height was 1.8".

Last edited by NVR_SPDS; 02-25-2011 at 10:10 PM.



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