To Pull the motor Or not Pull the motor
To Pull the motor Or not Pull the motor OK so for some reason I am wondering what to do here and need to know what are my options. This is for people who have done this before. Need real answers on this.... I own an 2000 Trans AM and I am currently finished striping the block down to the nub. (See Photo)... I am putting in ZO6 243 heads with gold double coil springs, MS4 Cam, ZO6 intake, Super Comp long tube headers and "Y" pipe, new push rods and lifters w/guides and 28LB fuel Injectors. Just some simple bolt on stuff any mechanically inclined person can do...
It has a rear main seal leak and has been for a while now. Need to change it as well, but here is the question I have... do I go ahead and pull the motor and just tear into it or just change the rear seal and go on. This engine is not bad but looks like the valves have hit a two of pistons. #2 on both sides.. Very small nick's though, I have never done this before and the only thing I know is that a cherry picker is about $60 to rent.
Do I change the piston heads?
Would I put in Flat top/dish type/grooved?
If so, do I have to change the connecting rods too?
I know I would have to change the bearings, gaskets and bolts. Would this be a nightmare....
What would my cost be do this?
Cherry Picker: $60
Piston Heads: $$$
Crank Bearings: $$$
Oil Pan Gasket: $$$
It has a rear main seal leak and has been for a while now. Need to change it as well, but here is the question I have... do I go ahead and pull the motor and just tear into it or just change the rear seal and go on. This engine is not bad but looks like the valves have hit a two of pistons. #2 on both sides.. Very small nick's though, I have never done this before and the only thing I know is that a cherry picker is about $60 to rent.
Do I change the piston heads?
Would I put in Flat top/dish type/grooved?
If so, do I have to change the connecting rods too?
I know I would have to change the bearings, gaskets and bolts. Would this be a nightmare....
What would my cost be do this?
Cherry Picker: $60
Piston Heads: $$$
Crank Bearings: $$$
Oil Pan Gasket: $$$
OK,, I will tell you this, if they are very small nicks, then you should not have to change them, as long as there is no cracking or such, I am taking what you say though "small nicks". The stock pistons are flat top pistons. I assume the you took the car down to increase performance, Not because of mechanical problems???
If you are putting the top end together, leave it in the car, no need to pull the whole engine, If you are confident the pistons are ok (if your not sure post some good pics), and the car ran good before tear down, then your bottom end should be fine. To replace the rear main the trans has to come out, and can easily be done with the trans out.
IF you are not familiar with rebuilding an engine, then it is not something that You should be attempting, these are very close tolerance engines, and the tools and knowledge to properly assemble one and have it last are not simple. It will cost the fire out of you if you start rebuilding the lower end. If it ran fine, put your top end back on, and then get it running, If you are really worried Do a compression check.
I built my 383 myself in my garage, and did it all myself with the exception of the machine work. Here are a few prices to let you know.
Pistons 800
crank/rod bearings 175
Gaskets 150
The list goes on and on and gets more expensive... If IT aint broke, dont fix it. save your money ...FOR NOW.
If you are putting the top end together, leave it in the car, no need to pull the whole engine, If you are confident the pistons are ok (if your not sure post some good pics), and the car ran good before tear down, then your bottom end should be fine. To replace the rear main the trans has to come out, and can easily be done with the trans out.
IF you are not familiar with rebuilding an engine, then it is not something that You should be attempting, these are very close tolerance engines, and the tools and knowledge to properly assemble one and have it last are not simple. It will cost the fire out of you if you start rebuilding the lower end. If it ran fine, put your top end back on, and then get it running, If you are really worried Do a compression check.
I built my 383 myself in my garage, and did it all myself with the exception of the machine work. Here are a few prices to let you know.
Pistons 800
crank/rod bearings 175
Gaskets 150
The list goes on and on and gets more expensive... If IT aint broke, dont fix it. save your money ...FOR NOW.
This is exactly what I needed to hear and nice ride also. I am just doing this for fun I guess... Just wanted to add some HP but not go extreme... 450HP would be great for me its really the sound I wanted with the Cam also. Bottom end is fine and was fine other than the leak. I agree with you that "I" do not need to be doing this myself. I started this project all because the radiator sprung a leak on the plastic edge and my A/C went out in the summer of 09'. I have only put maybe 5000 miles on it since 09' and I love driving this car but it has come to a weekend duty ride.
You seem like a normal person so check this out... I have most of the pics on here..
http://www.facebook.com/people/Jeremy-Meason/1531491036.
You seem like a normal person so check this out... I have most of the pics on here..
http://www.facebook.com/people/Jeremy-Meason/1531491036.
If you have a stock clutch in the car with the added hp youll have to put one in it. the rear main seal is a great thing to do while the flywheel is being surfaced at a machine shop. should take maybe 15 minutes or so. Agreed to as above no need to pull it out. If you already have a clutch and dont want to pull the trans just add a quart every now and then. Looks like a nice car good luck with the upgrades
