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ARP rod bolts over stock LS6?

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Old 02-08-2011, 10:24 PM
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Default ARP rod bolts over stock LS6?

I have a new LS6 (still in the crate) and will be installing new H/C/I next month before finally getting it into car.

(TrRaptor cam, Trick Flow 220's,FAST 102 intake &TB)

I had purchased a set ARP rod bolts (Part # 234-6301 cracked rod) and intended to have the shop install these as well as the heads/cam.
This LS6 is a 2004 model (CTV-S) so it already has the post 2001 stronger rod bolts, right?

Is it worthwhile to have the shop install the ARP bolts or are the stock ones just as strong?

I plan on racing this car as much as driving it on the street.
Old 02-09-2011, 12:27 AM
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i would think the ARP's are stronger. but if u dont want to have your motor basically torn all the way down to have your rods re-sized i would sell the ARP's and pick up some Katech rod bolts. those can just be installed and torqued without having to have the motor torn down.
Old 02-09-2011, 10:25 AM
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The connecting rods would have to come out to have the bolt holes re-sized?

Even on zero mile factory crate motor?

I think I would have to get rid of the ARP bolts and go with some Katech's if that's the case.

My understanding was the factory used some tighter spec's in LS6 than the LS1 motors.

I am building this motor for 480+ RWHP and hate to screw around with the factory build (aside from cam,Heads,and intake) to much.

I wonder if I should leave the factory rod bolts alone or go with Katech's?

Anyone with experience on this?
Old 02-09-2011, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by etrnl_velocity
The connecting rods would have to come out to have the bolt holes re-sized?

...
The big end bore of the rod has to be resized with the rod cap bolted/torqued to spec using the new bolts...

this can only be done with the rods out of the motor.
Old 02-09-2011, 02:29 PM
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Truth.. I would not ever replace rod bolts without the minimal machining required to make sure that everything is exactly how it should be.

If you have a new crate motor, you then have the updated rod bolts and unless your going to be spinning the motor to 7k, then I would just leave it be.
Old 02-09-2011, 02:37 PM
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Of course you know your crate motor warranty is void after you change the heads and cam. If I were building a 480+ rwhp motor I would go with a forged 347 or 408 SB and sell the new crate to somebody that needs it.
Old 02-09-2011, 08:59 PM
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That's not a bad idea, I DO want to push 7K RPM and DON'T want to rebuild this new motor.
Maybe I will post a possible trade for forged motor.



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