fast 90 install help
fast 90 install help i am in the middle of installing my fast 90, and i have two questions.
Q#1 can i use my mounting bolts from my ls6 intake?(to bolt it down to the engine)
Q#2 what are the torque specs for tightening the bolts?
thank you much to anyone that has the answers
Q#1 can i use my mounting bolts from my ls6 intake?(to bolt it down to the engine)
Q#2 what are the torque specs for tightening the bolts?
thank you much to anyone that has the answers
On The Tree
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
From: marysville oh
yes u can use ur stock mounting bolts. Ive actually heard there better than aftermarket and ls1howto.com has all the tourque specs ull ever need but first pass in 44 lb in and second pass is 89 lb inches. Just make sure u go in the sequence recomended and remeber its inch pounds and not foot pounds. Just take ur time and be carefull i snaped on off when i was putting my fast 102 on not much fun.
I got question # 1. Yes you can reuse your stock bolts to bolt the manifold on.
Not the right solution but I tightened my Fast Intake untill the bolts felt snug but not like I was going to snap the intake in half.
***Make sure you are using the flat washers for the valley cover and not the stock ones!! You will crack the intake.
Not the right solution but I tightened my Fast Intake untill the bolts felt snug but not like I was going to snap the intake in half.
***Make sure you are using the flat washers for the valley cover and not the stock ones!! You will crack the intake.
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x2. I had a vacuum leak after the intake swap. After a couple days of annoying troubleshooting, it ended up being an air leak from the stainless FAST intake bolts. Swapped back to the factory hex bolts, and the idle returned to normal.
i used the stock bolts as well. the car runs pretty damn good under throttle, the idle just aint as good. i really think its just the tune.
If you haven't already, the car idling take some carb cleaner and start spraying around the T/B, down the sides of the intake and in back. IF there is a vacuum leak the engines RPM will raise up for a few seconds then go back down.
Even with a vacuum leak it will run OK under part/WOT throttle but is more noticeable at idle. The vacuum leak sucks air in after the MAF but before the 02 sensor. The O2 sensors see's it, thinks its running lean and then try's to compensate.
When you spray the carb cleaner on the vacuum leak it "richens" the A/F ratio until the carb cleaner burns away.
Even with a vacuum leak it will run OK under part/WOT throttle but is more noticeable at idle. The vacuum leak sucks air in after the MAF but before the 02 sensor. The O2 sensors see's it, thinks its running lean and then try's to compensate.
When you spray the carb cleaner on the vacuum leak it "richens" the A/F ratio until the carb cleaner burns away.
If you haven't already, the car idling take some carb cleaner and start spraying around the T/B, down the sides of the intake and in back. IF there is a vacuum leak the engines RPM will raise up for a few seconds then go back down.
Even with a vacuum leak it will run OK under part/WOT throttle but is more noticeable at idle. The vacuum leak sucks air in after the MAF but before the 02 sensor. The O2 sensors see's it, thinks its running lean and then try's to compensate.
When you spray the carb cleaner on the vacuum leak it "richens" the A/F ratio until the carb cleaner burns away.
Even with a vacuum leak it will run OK under part/WOT throttle but is more noticeable at idle. The vacuum leak sucks air in after the MAF but before the 02 sensor. The O2 sensors see's it, thinks its running lean and then try's to compensate.
When you spray the carb cleaner on the vacuum leak it "richens" the A/F ratio until the carb cleaner burns away.
